Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Monty's 1989 CV LX

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #91
    Looks great! Hell I can't paint anything so this is just incredible far as i'm concerned. Top does look a bit weird but I think it'll be fine once the trim is all on.

    Comment


      #92
      Originally posted by Mainemantom View Post
      Paint job looks very good. If your top does not have any cracks, just live with it. Since you did a good job with the paint, you can do a vinyl top if needed. I would order a pre-made top. You will have to order through a upholstery shop. The manufacturer will not deal with the public. Last kit I ordered was under $200. That was over 10 years ago. It came from Ca. Stripping the old top off and doing the prep on the metal is the worst part. Do not waste your time with a dye job on the old top. It will not last and looks horrible.
      Top is new. I replaced it myself in 2011. You are right, the prep work for it was a real pain.

      Edit: I have pics of the top replacement at the beginning of this thread.
      Last edited by monterey1962; 10-04-2017, 11:03 PM.

      Comment


        #93
        Unless its factory - every respray has some kind of flaw - but who cares!!! It's a friggen 89 Crown Vic that looks CHERRY. Amazzing job - you did a DAMN good job. Well done! Can't wait to see it fully reassembled.
        -Nick M.
        Columbia, SC

        66 Squire, 89 Colony Park, 90 TC, 03 TC, 06 TC, 07 TC (2x)
        03 BMW 540iT, 07 Toyota Tundra SR5 Dbl Cab/5.7 2WD

        Comment


          #94
          Originally posted by monterey1962 View Post
          Top is new. I replaced it myself in 2011. You are right, the prep work for it was a real pain.

          Edit: I have pics of the top replacement at the beginning of this thread.
          Damn fine job on that top, Monty. Looks factory.
          1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
          1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

          Comment


            #95
            Started wet sanding on the trunk lid, which seems to be the worst of all the panels in terms of the clear coat. Started with 1500 grit, then down to 1200, then back to 1500, then 2000. 1500 wasn't cutting well enough, but the 1200 didn't do much better. Looks better now after the second pass of 2000 grit. Still need to hit it again. Doing up to 2000 by hand, then will follow with 3000 on the DA.

            Comment


              #96
              Originally posted by TecNickal View Post
              Unless its factory - every respray has some kind of flaw
              Hell even factory sprays have flaws.

              This car is not getting any of the chrome bullshit on the sides and fender arches back on, is it? Looks way good without all that crap!
              The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
              The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

              Comment


                #97
                Wow Monty, that looks amazing!! Your attention to detail really shows!

                Good to see you online too, my friend.
                1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
                Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

                Comment


                  #98
                  Originally posted by His Royal Ghostliness View Post
                  This car is not getting any of the chrome bullshit on the sides and fender arches back on, is it? Looks way good without all that crap!
                  Chrome is going back on, mainly due to all the little "nubs" along the bottom of the panels where the trim clips hook on to. Would have been a lot of extra work to remove them and weld the holes shut. However, I agree with you that it looks good without the chrome. The rubber strip on each side and the pinstripes will not be reinstalled.

                  I've been looking over wet sanding videos, and decided that I'm just going to have to keep going with the grits that I have. I'm just a bit spooked about going through the clear. Guys at the auto body store recommended 1500, 2000, 3000 (on DA), then 2 steps of buffing with foam pads. What they told me seems to be a good balance of what I've all seen. I just have to remember to walk away from the car when I get frustrated. Still, I am learning.

                  Comment


                    #99
                    Yeah, forgot about the stupid little nubs on the bottom trim. Well, I suppose it will be just fine with the bottom trim on. Use stainless screws where you attach it to the fenders, it's the only thing that will keep the rust monster at bay.
                    The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
                    The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

                    Comment


                      If you are worried about going through the clear do not use a DA. All the high end shops do it by hand, it'll take longer, but should yield better results with less risk
                      -Phil

                      sigpic

                      +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                      +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                      Comment


                        Trunk, roof, and hood are done up to 3000 grit.

                        I've found the following steps are working, so far: 1200, 1500, 2000, 3000 DA sander. I was really surprised at how well the 3000 grit cleaned up the clear coat and brought it to a semi gloss finish.
                        Attached Files

                        Comment


                          Oh yeah. I went up to 3000 on the fenders I repainted on my car and was just as surprised as you with the finish it leaves behind.

                          I made the mistake of using too aggressive of a compound after that. I put all of the work into making a super smooth finish by working up to the 3000 I did not need an ultra heavy duty rubbing compound, and therefor I made extra work for myself. Dont make that mistake please.

                          The same way you approached the wetsanding (by starting less aggressive and then realizing you needed more and then working back to the less aggressive) is how you should approach the cutting and buffing. I wish I followed that.
                          ~David~

                          My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                          My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                          Originally posted by ootdega
                          My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                          Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                          But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                          Originally posted by gadget73
                          my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                          Comment


                            Sanded through the very center point of the header panel on the lower edge with 1200 grit. By the way it looks and feels, I figure that I didn't spray much (if any) clear coat there. Rest of the header panel seems good. Will fix it later on.

                            Comment


                              Seven and a half hours of wet sanding, today. All side panels are at 2000 grit. So far, only two spots need to be resprayed: edge of the header panel, and the edge of the front left quarter panel by the curb light opening.

                              Comment


                                Sanded with the DA and 3000 grit, tonight. Should be buffing it soon.

                                Driver's side has a lot of trash in the clear. Passenger side is nearly trash-free. Why? Because the door to my paint booth was centered on the driver's side, and didn't seal. Also, the air intake (one very small window) was not enough to feed the two box fans. A lot of debris got sucked in through the door and landed on the clear. I should have added a larger air intake opening on the back wall of the booth, built the door at the end of the booth by the exhaust fans, and sprayed the floor outside the booth with water. Lesson learned.

                                Other than trash, the new paint is looking pretty decent. The clear sanded well enough, and I'm not finding a lot of flaws showing from my prep work. Need to get a cheap bench top buffer and supplies so I can shine up the chrome before installation. There's so much work to do, yet. Don't think I could do this for a living, but I would love to do another car start-to-finish, someday.

                                I should mention, Kevin Tetz is the main source I've had for information, via his Paintucation DVD's and his videos on Eastwood.com.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X