My 1987 Mercury Colony Park

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Still haven't looked at the cluster. Need to, but it seems if the car is driven regularly, the issue doesn't occur. Doesn't make a heck of a lot of sense. Seems the illumination/backfeed wackiness only happens after it sits for several days and clears up after the car is driven a bit.


Only thing I've done is swap LEDs into the rest of the back of the car. Swapped the tag lights for warm white LEDs several months prior.




Used the "fancy" built-in resistor type LEDs on the tail/brake/turn bulbs so I could keep the original style 323 flasher working along with the speed control. No problems with that. Even with the built in resistors, it seems some draw must be reduced, as the dash illumination doesn't flicker a touch the way it used to with the original bulbs when I'd hit the brakes. I also used "standard" LED for the reverse light since the originals were considerably dull. Overall I'm pleased with the additional brightness from all the bulbs.

[gadget73]

I did LED reverse lights in the Cont trying to get some more out of it when the reverse light switch was jacked and dropping a bunch of voltage. It helped but even now with a good switch thats not losing 3 volts they aren't very bright. I should pull those and see if the reflective coating in the housing even still exists.

[sly]

Yeah... LED reverse lights on my 93 don't do well (but those are small to begin with) and the LEDs on the Expedition are like rear headlights. Nice and bright. basically 921/912 vs 3156. 3156 has much more headroom to work with.

[87gtVIC]

That looks really good.

[gadget73]

not sure what they are on the Conti, its whatever bulb has the same base as an 1156, but the glass part is like half the size of an 1156. It got 1156 replacement LED though since they fit. Just cheap crap tho which is likely not helping.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Got a little trip coming up soon. Figured I'd address a few things that really have needed done for a while, and some new stuff that's gonna get done tomorrow.

Had originally noticed a slight pulsation when braking, but it was more of an on/off catch feeling, less of the warped rotor sensation. Found the RR drum was kinda damp inside.





Yay, leaky wheel cylinder. Dunno how old it is and how many miles are on it, but its getting replaced regardless. Going to go ahead and do both sides and install new brake shoes as well since these have been exposed for who knows how long at this point. I'll also take care lubricating the backing plate points and cleaning/lubing the self adjuster once I get it pulled apart. I'll bleed the whole system with some of the Bosch ESI 6 fluid I have that's supposed to cover DOT 3, 4, and 5.1.


Took my drums up to O'Reilly and cut 'em. I've had a long standing agreement with the current manager to be able to still use the lathe after left about three years ago. Today not a single person I recognized was in there and the assistant manager was out, so there was a substitute from another store who had to actually verify if I could use the machine after he told me "they don't cut drums/rotors anymore." Honestly a bit shocked knowing that now and the fact that the lathe otherwise is used for storage. That was one of my more "enjoyable" things to do then and honestly worked out pretty good for customers on certain rotors cost wise.




After all that fun, I did reinstall the drums and wheels just so the car wasn't on stands the rest of the day. Addressed a handful of inoperative lock actuators. Passenger RF and LR just managed to get the electrical connector loose. Reconnected, works good again. Addressed the tailgate one with a good used one from a '89 since that one legitimately went missing some time ago with no explanation. Found the fold down safety latch arm had also detached and fallen into the tailgate.



This arm is depressed by the window when its rolled down which then releases the safety latch so you can flip the tailgate down instead of opening it as door if you prefer. The plastic clip on the arm had given up. I'd also had the clip on the lock cylinder rod break and prevent me from operating the lock/window system as well. Luckily, the Dorman 75450 pack of door rod clips had all the needed bits so I was able to fix the lock cylinder and the window safety rod.



In case anyone has to deal with that rod falling out, there's a hole to the right of the fixed rod it inserts into. The rod goes behind the window regulator assembly and otherwise kinda dangles in free space once its fitted.



Tomorrow is brake repairs, and Wednesday I'll do a interior/exterior cleaning and final check. Should be all good to go for the weekend.