My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

[Arquemann]

Taking her to winter storage next sunday, Oct. 23rd.
Before that I'll clean inside and out. Proper vacuuming and dusting.
I'm thinking I'll wash the whole car with some proper solvent wash, the Fusso wax didn't like the rough paint and it's gathered so much stuck on dirt it won't wash off with regular car soap.

[87gtVIC]

You need to clay the car. No solvent wash (aside from paint stipper) will smooth it out.

[Arquemann]

You need to clay the car. No solvent wash (aside from paint stipper) will smooth it out.

I first need to get the old wax off, clay after that, then she really could use a proper cut & buff, but I don't have the equipment or the tenacity for that.
The paint is rough from 2 decades of Florida sun and poor maintenance, clay won't fix that.

Basically I was trying to say that I want to wash the paint clean of wax and stuff.

[87gtVIC]

Okay. Claying the paint also removes any waxes on the surface which is why one must re-apply a coating of sorts after claying the paint as it leaves it very bare.

I tell you claying the paint and then a simple one step with a medium cut pad will really make the single stage shine up. Correct, in the claying alone wont help. It comes down to wanting to put the effort in. There are rewards to be had. I assure you. I am not ragging on you...just trying to motivate.

[Arquemann]

The wax is stuck on there reaaaal good. I've gotta clean it off before I can go about claying or even think about buffing.

I guess I made a class A bad move when I put on the Fusso Coat 1,5 years ago. It immediately baked hard onto the rough sunburnt paint, and it's been gathering grime onto the wax harder than I would've ever imagined. Even though I've washed the car somewhat regularly.
Stuck on dirt on baked on wax, faded, chipped, worn through paint. Light patina, though... ....I'm not against extending it a little bit
Photo dump of the awfulness:
Zoom in and look closely for the real deal.

[87gtVIC]

I dont have any direct experience with the fusso stuff but do understand that it is different that what I traditionally use.

My car had all the edges burned off from countless buff jobs the original owner had done to her. I see that starting on yours now too.


You can definitely shine her up once that fusso stuff is removed. I wish we were closer. Id help you out.

[friskyfrankie]

Fusso 12 month is a flourine or PTFE resin based hard paste sealant that does not contain polymers or carnauba wax which is rated for 12 months but realistically more like 8-10 months. The PTFE part may have caused some issues especially if the surface was not extremely clean before it was applied. I understand the Japanese and US versions are different (and supposedly better) than the version sold in Europe. If and why this is so, I have no clue.

[Arquemann]

Yeah, so I ended up washing the paint with straight isopropyl alcohol. That took most of it off, still left quite blotchy. I might try some spicy wax & tar remover tomorrow, for now I'm really tired.
I don't think there's much negotiating about buffing or not buffing this paint, it's bad. When spring comes, she'll get atleast a light buffing. Only thing I wonder is how will the pinstripes fare against a buffer...
White is just a crappy color when it comes to figuring out polishing and where to stop. Thanks for the offer gtVIC but indeed you're quite far away. I might be able to bribe my friend with kebab to help me again, the one who helped me buff the Volvo a year or two ago.

How about a 50/50 shot:
The paint in the middle of the hood has faded through with time.


Blotchy as F. We'll see if there's anything more aggressive than IPA, but otherwise the blotchiness will come out with buffing.

[87gtVIC]

If the pinstripes are painted they will be cut down some if you really reef on it with the buffer. One can use more fluid (compound) so it is not so dry around the pinstripes and it will help reduce the cut.

[Arquemann]

Well, she's in winter storage again. Warm, ventilated and dry.
It's probably going to be around April again when it'd be time to start the next season. All depends on weather and temps.

Let's get this seasonal depression ripping again! Atleast this winter I have a Chevy to keep me from having V8 withdrawals. Nothing is the same in the winter, but this time I have a little something less boring to drive.

[Arquemann]

Thinking about the next season...

Things to do / things in mind:
- Buff the paint (probably the first thing, weather allowing)
- New rear speakers
- New rims or atleast paint the steelies
- A rear sway bar maybe?

And then there's the whole engine fiasko... Clacketyclack...
My guess is there's a couple rod bearings going out.
Dunno if I should deal with the PITA and slap new rod bearing from underneath, or just fucking send it and risk damaging the crank and rods.

[matth825]

I would say full send would be too big a risk. If something decides to catastrophically let go you could end up with weight reduction holes in the block. Far better to deal with it now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Arquemann]

I would say full send would be too big a risk. If something decides to catastrophically let go you could end up with weight reduction holes in the block. Far better to deal with it now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, unlike in the States, we don't have small blocks laying around in our garden sheds. Even though a full rebuild is in the horizon, I would like to postpone it to a better time, aka when I have more money and (hopefully) better facilities for working.
Though I really wouldn't mind moving on from the tired 302 that it currently is, my poor budget would result in a worse end result vs when done in a better time and place. Biggest gripe is the shaky (misfiring) idle and I don't know what to do to that.

[gadget73]

be easier to yank the engine and do the rod bearings on the stand. Getting the pan out from under these is not easy, and then you have a crossmember in the way of where you need to work. Also will make it possible to have the crank turned if its too far gone to just stick bearings in it.

I'd actually wager on it being main bearings first, those wear, the oil leaks out, then the rods wear from lack of lube. Just looking at the rod bearings will tell you that though, if its the rod on either side of one main journal, its an oil feed problem to those rods through the main.

also gives an easy opportunity to re-gasket the engine. if its out you may as well fix any leaks its got.

bad bearings won't make it misfire though.

[Arquemann]

be easier to yank the engine and do the rod bearings on the stand. Getting the pan out from under these is not easy, and then you have a crossmember in the way of where you need to work. Also will make it possible to have the crank turned if its too far gone to just stick bearings in it.

I'd actually wager on it being main bearings first, those wear, the oil leaks out, then the rods wear from lack of lube. Just looking at the rod bearings will tell you that though, if its the rod on either side of one main journal, its an oil feed problem to those rods through the main.

also gives an easy opportunity to re-gasket the engine. if its out you may as well fix any leaks its got.

bad bearings won't make it misfire though.

Yes, but to pull out the engine I'd have to drop the exhaust, empty the coolant, detach and support the trans, detach/empty power steering and the wiring aswell. And I don't even have an engine hoist, or a driveway flat enough to make one roll.

To lift up the engine off the mounts to pull the pan, I'll need to remove the fan or shroud and possibly the driver side valve cover. The engine crossmember is big, but it can be worked around. I should be able to borrow one of those topside support bars from friends.

Now (next summer) is not the time to pull apart the whole engine, I just want to buy time. Only real engine oil leak is the pan anymore, it's got new gaskets on the intake, valve covers and front cover. I'm checking the oil pressure before doing anything, if the pressure is low, the mains are probably cooked too. If the pressure is okay, slapping some rod bearings should get rid of the noise and buy me time for a season or two.