My '85 MGM, "Maisa"

[sly]

The humming in the rear may be a bad bearing or wrong size bearing. There's a couple different sizes for the same years and the difference is just enough to cause problems. Could also be a u-joint that's trying to seize up.

[Arquemann]

The humming in the rear may be a bad bearing or wrong size bearing. There's a couple different sizes for the same years and the difference is just enough to cause problems. Could also be a u-joint that's trying to seize up.

We'll see... The new bearings and axles are a complete kit from USA Standard Gear, bearing OD 2,25" and no other measurements included. Can't compare old-vs-new since bearings and axles are new. Is it possible that there's some break-in on new axles and bearings? But if it explodes, it's the shops responsibility.

U-joints are tight, but highly possibly original.
Goddamn I love hearing new noises after the car is worked on!

[sly]

I've never heard humming from the rear axle that wasn't a bad noise except with bad tires or mud tires. There should be no break in period since it's all oiled roller bearing.

[gadget73]

axles and bearings do not break in. Should be no reason they hum. Should be the same bearing used in all the 8.8 car axles.

does it change on or off the throttle, or when turning side to side? on/off throttle is more driveshaft or pinion bearing, left/right is more of a wheel bearing noise.

[jaywish]

I hate having anyone work on anything I own.

[sly]

Maybe just parts listing BS. 82 Conti Mark VI listings showed 2 sizes for wheel bearings and the difference was like 30 thou IIRC.

[Arquemann]

Oh I forgot to mention they fitted new brake shoes aswell.

I took off the wheels and drums because I wanted to inspect things. One drum and brake was cleaned properly and adjusted kinda tight. The other side was still wet with gear oil all over except for the drum friction surface, also the brake adjustment was way too loose. Adjusted the drums properly and put back on my wheelspacers.

After finding out that the shop seemingly tried to friction weld the lug nuts on, I (surprisingly) found out that my local parts store sells half inch lug nuts. So now I have 20 shiny lug nuts, and get this: they're all 19mm! Which conveniently means that the tire iron in the car now works for none of the lug nuts instead of half.

[Arquemann]

I did not feel anything in the rear bearings upon inspection, a tiny bit of play and smooth turning, less in-out play in the axles than before.
Managed to take her on a little test drive, seems the humming I was hearing is gone, it was probably the brake that was adjusted a bit too tight. The pedal feels better now, there's still a bit of dead travel at first, but it's firm and smooth the rest of the way and she seems to brake a bit "flatter".

[jaywish]

Success.

[gadget73]

Good deal

[DerekTheGreat]

Excessive pedal travel is a tell-tale sign that the rears need to be adjusted. If you can pull the drums right off with no effort, they still need to be adjusted. That is of course if the drums have been turned such that there's no wear ridge from the shoes. Many tend to complain about the brakes on these, but if you get the rears adjusted properly, they stop pretty good.

[Arquemann]

Excessive pedal travel is a tell-tale sign that the rears need to be adjusted. If you can pull the drums right off with no effort, they still need to be adjusted. That is of course if the drums have been turned such that there's no wear ridge from the shoes. Many tend to complain about the brakes on these, but if you get the rears adjusted properly, they stop pretty good.

I think I've got the shoes adjusted pretty good, they drag a little bit on the drums, without requiring too much effort to turn. The drums are Ford drums, they are either not original or they've been turned, there's almost zero ridge on them. The pedal has some dead travel up top, but after the first inch it's the firmest it's ever been. It's firm and she feels good stopping.

[jaywish]

Sounds like it is AOK.

The test that I would do once the shoes a are certainly broken in is a hard braking test.

Use your preferred flat, level, dry long and wide private test track for safety.
Just in case the brakes are not all even and the car slides to one side or the other people should stand well away.

Get up speed. Apply hard braking pressure. You may need to do it a few times to find the lockup point. In a perfect world they would all start locking up at the same time. With drums it is hard unless you adjust them regularly. I know they are automatic adjusters but I was never happy with that system. Still you should get no directional pull and fronts right & left should start sliding at the same time and likewise rears.

If the fronts lockup first then the rears could be a little tighter. It is a tough balancing act that may not be achievable. Closer is better.

[gadget73]

the rears absolutely should not lock up before the fronts do. At best it should happen at the same time but if the rears lock first the ass end just goes wherever with no control at all.

self adjusters are "meh" at best. Never seen one work entirely reliably. Probably fine when new and all of those parts were shiny and clean and perfectly in spec but we live in the real world now with 40 year old worn and rusty parts.

[DerekTheGreat]

An inch is about what I've got on my '88, that or a little less. Like gadget said, I tend to end up adjusting them myself every few years or so.