My 79 Marquis

[Grand1]

Upper control arm shaft is more beefy than the stock one by about 4mm. The length is identical. Lines up perfectly for the bolts.

[sly]

Looks like the one on my aero. Probably "later style" as they pretty much all fit.

[Grand1]

Time to push it in, then. Only the centerlink in the front end will stay....everything else is being changed out;

Bilstein Comfort shocks in front
KYB gas a just in rear
Mevotech Supreme 8652 constant rate springs front, leaving rear for now
New lower control arms
Ball joints, bushings, tierods, idler arm, etc

[Grand1]

I been talking to Vic while site was down. Upper control Arm bushing, I have a small gap from washer. Interesting that the shop manual mentions put a washer on only one side. I went through my pressed out hardware and found 4 washers (2 for each side) Confused.

[Grand1]

Well, gonna roll with that miniscule gap, put those serrated washers on both sides since that is what came off.

Interesting to note. Lower Control arms are NOT swappable, the diameter of the housing, where the bushings sit, is to wide to mount by at least 1/4 inch.

So:

1. Since the OE lower control arms are virtually unattainable, I am giving them the white glove treatment. Getting those bushings out without a press was something. I took my time carefully not to damage anything. They are out, but what a bear.

2. Degrease, grind of rust, clean, rust proof, then rubberized undercoat.

The bullshit threads are toast for the shocks. What is the typical fix? Weld nuts to the underside or inside? Put the bolt upside down and then with a nut?

[87gtVIC]

j nut/ j clip for the lower shock mount is the quick and easy fix.

[sly]

+1 J-nut... also called extruded nut depending on catalog.

[Grand1]

Well got one side done with those constant rate springs. I torqued down the upper and lower bushings just past finger tight. You torque both sets at vehicle ride height... Or since my tire is in the way on the passenger side for the upper, jacked accordingly?

The lower control arms were ridiculous as far as lining up, no issue when I did.my aero...both sides had the bolthole equidistant off center (a good thing as the probability for any bent or substandard arms is diminished)which required me to grind and score the bushing sleeve. Just glad everything is coming back together.

[Grand1]

Are these little off gaps between the bar and the link, ok ? I have tried to get it nice and flush a variety of ways and this is the best I can do.

[Arquemann]

You could probably tighten it a bit more. Jack it from from the lower control arm and see how the bushings look when its at ride height.

[Grand1]

Yeah, I did the whole ride height thing when torquing down the lca and uca bushings via jack and then proceeded to this step...another set of hands would make this painless

[sly]

I put a box end wrench on the top and quarter impact on the bottom and go until it stops or I'm satisfied with the squish. Whichever comes first.

[Grand1]

Well the j clips did it with minor grinding modification...front end done.

Replacing the valve covers as I have a leak on a bank. The gaskets are completely petrified and crumbled.

Drivers side was smooth sailing. Passenger side buried...what's the deal with this huge smog line? I think it goes to the back of the head, haven't checked. How to delete as my valve covers are pinned by it.

[Grand1]

Well, according to my research 5/8-11 inch long bolt will do the trick. Also heard the cheapest is to put a spark plug in and snap it off.

[DerekTheGreat]

I'd delete all the smog/AIR and EGR shit off of that car. I love EGR, but only when computer controlled.