My 1983 Continental Mark VI!

[friskyfrankie]

I'd start by examining the wiring up to the switch.

[mercurygm88]

Would there not be a live feed to the switch (has to be)? Perhaps if the antenna motor is the draw, that is where the issue is.

I suppose it's possible. This is the antenna motor that came in the car when I bought it, at the time it was unplugged and the fuse was removed. I replaced the fuse and plugged it in to find it did not work. So I replaced it with a NOS one I found online and that one quit about a month ago. I was able to get the original going by lubricating it. The morning after I installed it the battery was dead. Then all was fine for about 3 weeks, a week ago the battery went dead again, and then it went dead over the last two nights.

[friskyfrankie]

Would there not be a live feed to the switch (has to be)? Perhaps if the antenna motor is the draw, that is where the issue is.

[mercurygm88]

I’ll unplug it when I go to charge the battery today. We’ll see how things go after that.

[DerekTheGreat]

Well, based on that information it is certainly suspect. Try disconnecting it and see if anything changes.

[mercurygm88]

Does anyone here know if it would be even remotely possible for a power antenna motor to create a constant battery draw considering it’s operated by a switch?

The reason I ask is that twice in the past month I’ve had the less than a year old interstate battery in the Mark VI go dead over night. The first time was the day after I installed the NOS antenna motor.

Battery and alternator both test good. If it’s not the antenna motor I’m probably just going to put a battery disconnect on it. Should only be a minor inconvenience considering it’s not a daily driver.

[mercurygm88]

Perhaps some really close up photos may assist in a diagnosis. Is it possible to find another clock? Haven't looked on EBAY but there or another site that deals in junk cars/parts may help.

It probably is but I really have no interest in pulling that cluster again. The speedometer cable fought me for an hour last time, and I still haven't attempted to unhook the gear indicator cable.

[mercurygm88]

Did the stem with the crown pull out or just the crown come off ? If just the crown, it might screw on or is pressed on. Epoxy may work if it is pressed on. If the stem came out with the crown, I would have to see the end. Sometimes if it is like a watch, it can be pushed back in.

The whole stem came out and since it appears to be metal I'm kind of surprised it did. it almost looks like there are splines on the very end, I'm guessing even if it is a press fit and I can get it to go back in it may just come right back out. Something in the mechanism is spring loaded to pull the stem back in when your not setting the clock, so if I do get it pushed back in the next time I go to set it I'm thinking that spring pressure may just pop it apart as I've probably messed up that press fit.

I didn't see a groove for an e clip or anything like that but I will take a closer look when I get the chance.

[friskyfrankie]

Perhaps some really close up photos may assist in a diagnosis. Is it possible to find another clock? Haven't looked on EBAY but there or another site that deals in junk cars/parts may help.

[Mainemantom]

Did the stem with the crown pull out or just the crown come off ? If just the crown, it might screw on or is pressed on. Epoxy may work if it is pressed on. If the stem came out with the crown, I would have to see the end. Sometimes if it is like a watch, it can be pushed back in.

[mercurygm88]

probably have to take the clock apart. I've never done it, but I'm sure its possible. Mine is really stiff to turn, so I may be pulling mine apart to lube it at some point. If I do that before you figure it out I'll let you know how it goes together. I expect its a retaining ring holding the shaft in place though, and probably yours fell off.

The three pieces of the cluster can be replaced individually if needed. Just have to take the face of the cluster off, then you can see the pieces. I think its 2 or 3 screws on the back to secure each part of the cluster into the main housing.

I figured it was something along those lines. It was really stiff when I set it last time change. I’m going to let it go for the time being. Last time I had the cluster out it was only halfway out because I didn’t want to mess with the gear indicator. That was enough of pain that I’m not looking forward to doing it again.

[gadget73]

probably have to take the clock apart. I've never done it, but I'm sure its possible. Mine is really stiff to turn, so I may be pulling mine apart to lube it at some point. If I do that before you figure it out I'll let you know how it goes together. I expect its a retaining ring holding the shaft in place though, and probably yours fell off.

The three pieces of the cluster can be replaced individually if needed. Just have to take the face of the cluster off, then you can see the pieces. I think its 2 or 3 screws on the back to secure each part of the cluster into the main housing.

[mercurygm88]

I finally got around to getting the seat belt bolts out and re hanging the rear seat. A good electric impact and impact torx did the trick.

Now a new issue arises. I went to set the clock tonight and clumsy me pulled the knob right out of the dash with my big ol sasquatch hands. Does anyone know if there’s a way to fix this short of finding another cluster? The clock still works it’s just an hour off.

Also I recently started hanging out with a guy who has an engine shop in the family. His grandfather has been running the place since 1961 and he has a dozen of everything. I think we’re going to build a decent 351 for the Mark VI.

[sly]

Acceptable was listed as like 8 or 12 hours on the 82 I had. After I fixed a few joints and replaces a couple bits of hose, those would stay down a day or 2. Would probably have to replace all the rubber hose with vinyl vacuum hose to really get a good seal on the system.

[mercurygm88]

Wow, I'm surprised the headlights were still closed. I think Ford states "acceptable" as three days or something silly like that. Wait until it's like 5 degrees, everything loves when it's that cold.

I started my '88 last week, I think it was 20 degrees or so. It fired up but idled really low. I decided to see if it would correct itself, but after 8 seconds or so, the idle went lower and it died. Fired it back up and gave it a stab of the go-go juice. Drove it all day. Nice car.

Luckily the choke and choke pull off on the Lincoln still work properly it just needs a little more fine tuning. I don’t think the throttle kicker is functioning but it doesn’t seem to matter. Someone either here or on another forum told me the service manual says if the headlights stay shut for 24 hours it’s acceptable. That same person claimed there’s would stay shut for at least 6 months. And no they aren’t stuck I made sure they were working.

My ‘88 MGM had occasional idle issues for the 4 years I owned it. No amount of messing with the IAC or TPS seemed to help. But it always seemed to run better the colder the weather was, go figure.