My '95 Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

[Arquemann]

Had a helluva time adjusting the wiper arms, right wiper nut cover is cracked, left one missing. Both wiper arms were pulled off the splines with a pipe wrench by looks of it. Right side conical splines are super mushed, looks like the arm was reinstalled with a 3/4" impact, even the wiper arm is a bit bowed under the nut.
Also found a spot of window urethane by the driver door B-pillar, when I accidentally stuck in finger into it.

An absolute shitshow, just incredible. I will be writing them some feedback.

whiny diff is usually not enough bearing preload on the pinion. The right fix is to take it apart and replace the crush collar. The right now fix is to pull the drive shaft, confirm the rolling torque against book spec, and tighten the pinion nut a bit if needed to get the rolling torque up to where it should be per the manual.

did that on the Continental when I had to change the pinion seal. It was puking oil and had a bit of whine. Zero preload. Changed the seal, tightened it until it hit whatever the Ford spec was and its perfectly quiet now. Thats actually in the official service manual procedure for that. check before taking it apart, if its over spec put it back where it was, if its under spec tighten until its in spec.

I don't know diff causalities, but my diff has a teeny bit of whine on decel around 45 kmh and louder whine on light accel from 80 to about 90 kmh. Preload? I dunno. Wouldn't be too hard to check while under there, unless the driveshaft bolts give trouble. I'll change the diff fluid anyways, I have no clue when it was last serviced.

[gadget73]

safe assumption for last diff service is "never"

whine on decel is usually low/no preload, give it enough acceleration and the spiral cut on the gear will shove the bearing into the pocket and create some preload. Steady speed you don't get this so it whines again.

[sly]

A beam/dial torque indicator for inch pounds will get you the measurement you want. 8-14 lb-in (0.9-1.5 N-m) for used bearings (this is from the 93 service manual and should be the same for all 8.8 axles). Put on pinion nut and rotate past the initial torque point and the rolling resistance is the preload IIRC.

[gadget73]

Chevy. Not an 8.8, but its probably a very similar number. The axles used in these are extremely similar in design.

[sly]

Oh... right. yeah... NFC what numbers on chevy stuff.

[Arquemann]

GM says the rolling torque for broken in bearings on a 8.5" 10-bolt is 6-8 inch lbs. which is nothing-nothing in newtonmeters. No clue if that's with axle shafts in or not. A problem I didn't expect to encounter is finding a tool to check the torque. None of the torque wrenches I've found for sale in Finland are anywhere close to being useful in checking such a low torque value.

I sure hope the diff has been serviced before, it's got 360k KMs

Oh well.

[jaywish]

I found a nice little beam type that is marketed for bicycles. There are also hand screwdriver/t-handle types used for electrical connections and tpms tire valve stems. But the range my be small so be sure it covers what you need.

[Arquemann]

I found a nice little beam type that is marketed for bicycles. There are also hand screwdriver/t-handle types used for electrical connections and tpms tire valve stems. But the range my be small so be sure it covers what you need.

Yeah I found one screwdriver type torque wrench that's 0,1-5 nm. 130 euros. And how the hell am I supposed to turn the 1-1/4" pinion nut with a screwdriver? I'd need every step-up adapter in the country

[jaywish]

Yes you need all the adapters!

I got one like this. Beam style
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03727A-...92&sr=8-5&th=1

[jaywish]

This one is Tiwan
https://www.amazon.com/ARES-4-inch-V...2&sr=8-15&th=1

If you look you might find a euro or USA made model.

Also consider the ones with the smallest range for possibly more accuracy.

[Arquemann]

Yeah even on those it'l be a pain in the arse to figure out if it's 6 or 8 or no inch lbs...

[jaywish]

True but his one has done the job for me several times. Key is the smallest range.

[gadget73]

rolling torque is typically done with the thing fully assembled but check what they say about doing pinion seals. In the Ford instructions it says remove the driveshaft, then check the rolling torque. At no point does it say to remove the axles or drain the diff when doing the pinion seal. I'd guess the GM instructions are similar.

I have two beam type torque wrenches, a 1/4 drive and a 3/8. The 1/4 i think goes to 60 in-lb and the 3/8 goes to 20 or 30. Its the most adorable little wrench, very short, and perfect for this kind of job. I had bought the 1/4 drive one for something, the 3/8 came in a toolbox I bought and its what I used when I did the pinion seal on the Continental.

[jaywish]

Yes tolling torque. IIRC I had the wheels and brakes off. but it has been some time. That 3/8" with 30" range sounds really nice.

[gadget73]

I did it with the tires and all on, possibly its a CH under spec as a result but when I started it registered zero so it can't be that far out of whack.