i had a dream about this the other nite. i had the back seat and passenger seat removed. there was a speaker wall angled from the bottom of the front seat to the rear dash with 4 subs in it in place of the rear seat. where the front seat was at is a panel where the amps and such are. thought i would ask if somebody has ever thought of this. it was a weird dream, and it would only allow the driver to be in the car. just thought i would share the dream i had.
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Lots of competition cars are like that. Problem is that for the most part they don't sound good, its just loud bass. If you're into SPL (sound pressure levels) competitions its fine but pretty much useless for just a stereo in a car you're going to be driving. Its just overkill, and besides, you lose that nice back seat for recreation purposes.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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it would be a toy, and i would want tweeters for the other sound. i rattle windows as it is and i can still hear everything being said in my car. people like the way it sounds. i just need to get rid of the buzz from the trunk. i used expandofoam, but i think i need more and i also need to insulate the deck lid and trunk to keep it in the cabin area.
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Sound deadening and bracing of panels works wonders man. If you walled your rear seat you would have a lot more rattles than you would in your trunk most likely. Second Skin Audio has good sound deadening products, if you have the time and money and want to kill some rattles, I would go for it. Expandable Spray Foam does work well in places such as the cavities in your trunk lid, but make sure you tape off each hole so you won't make a mess with the foam.
The rear deck for these cars sucks if you want to have a sub in your trunk, Right now, I have my trim piece against the window with a piece of weather stripping on it cushioning against the window, it works very well. Not to mention the 6 bolts in the front of the rear deck covered by the rear seat. I also placed some thick 3/4" crafting foam on the bottom of the rear deck. One last thing I did was braced up the metal part of the rear deck with a piece of wood. Tons of sound deadener in the trunk, mat and liquid. Not too many more rattles, the only thing i hear rattling outside of the vehicle is the license plate frame which leaks air from the air pressure being released from the trunk, which I will be fixing shortly.
Open up your rear deck to, take your 6" x 9" out if you have them and throw a nice component set up front for some nice music, make sure you amp them if you do, then you will have it way more than loud enough to keep up with your bass.
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i have aftermarket 2 way 6x9s in the rear dash, after market 5 1/4 seakers in the dash, and i am installing speakers in the doors soon. what i need is a stronger amp for my 12 inch subs since they handle 500w RMS each, and i only have a 300w max bridged amp running them. the amp i am running the subs with will power the 6x9s as soon as i get another more powerful amp. i have a cap, but i was wondering how i am supposed to charge it before i hook it up? right now when my headlights are on and i am sitting idle, the bass cuts out due to not enuf power so i need to install the cap soon. how do i charge it? thanx for the help.
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Just hook up the cap the way you normally would and dont use your system for a good day. The fact though that your amp cuts out when your car is idling due to power loss is not a power issue. I am running 2x 1100 kenwoods powering 4 10" Premiers and the only thing I get when idling is my lights and dvd player all start dancing to the music. (By dancing I mean dimming) it looks cool though cause it means I got a lot of bass. One easy method of getting rid of that though for your future reference is upgrading the ground wire off your battery and the positive wire from your alternator to your battery to a bigger gauge. Your porbably running 8 gauge to your amp rightn ow try tossing in 4 gauge the way you have it wired could be the porblem as well.1992 GrandMarquis LS
The boat with the sound.
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Here are some slight power upgrades that will work in any car. Upgrade your battery cables/battery grounds to a thicker gauge (I did 1/0). Then run thicker cable to the trunk. What size are you running to the trunk, I am running 1/0 to the trunk as well. It may not sound like much but trust me it helps. Do some searching on google about the "Big 3 Upgrade".
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best amp i know of are hifonics you can get a nice one for 200 bucks
http://http://www.sonicelectronix.co...+TXi+7508.html89 townie, mild exhuast up grades, soon to have loud ass stereo....
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I HAVE A FEW CUSTOM THING DONE TO MY MGM. CUT PORTS IN THE REAR DECK COVER TO RELEASE THE PRESSURE FORM THE SUBS IN THE TRUNK, SOUNDS GOOD TOOK AWAY ALOT OF THE RATTLE. FIBERGLASSED THE BOTTOMS OF MY DOOR PANLES TO HOLD 6 1/2" SPEAKERS. I AM RUNNING A MEMPHES AUDIO AMP FOR THE SPAKERS AND ONE FOR THE SUBS ILL TRY TO GETS PICS UP ON MY PROFILE OF ALL OF IT. OH YEAH I AM HITTING 134.68 DB WHEN I GOT IT TESTEDLast edited by clean88merc; 05-20-2009, 12:46 PM.
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Originally posted by clean88merc View PostI HAVE A FEW CUSTOM THING DONE TO MY MGM. CUT PORTS IN THE REAR DECK COVER TO RELEASE THE PRESSURE FORM THE SUBS IN THE TRUNK, SOUNDS GOOD TOOK AWAY ALOT OF THE RATTLE. FIBERGLASSED THE BOTTOMS OF MY DOOR PANLES TO HOLD 6 1/2" SPEAKERS. I AM RUNNING A MEMPHES AUDIO AMP FOR THE SPAKERS AND ONE FOR THE SUBS ILL TRY TO GETS PICS UP ON MY PROFILE OF ALL OF IT. OH YEAH I AM HITTING 134.68 DB WHEN I GOT IT TESTED89 townie, mild exhuast up grades, soon to have loud ass stereo....
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