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Thread: {CARB-SWAP}Newest theory..

  1. #1
    GMN Founder Grand Marquis GT's Avatar
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    Default {CARB-SWAP}Newest theory..

    Jon mentioned that cause of ,my setup, my fuel bowl will emppty itself overnight, so I figured out how to get the car to start..

    Turn the key on, without cranking for around 10 secs...allow the fuel pressure to fill the fuel bowl.

    It will fire right up.

    But I still have a problem with the car bogging right out at mild acceleration 1/8-1/4 throttle. my timing is dead on. idle sucks too. Sounds like its got a miss. I may change the plugs later.

    What does everyone else think?

    When warmed up, and I stomp it, it will get right up and go!
    1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
    Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!


  2. #2
    My Name is Fudge Flapjack.
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    I think the problem stems from trying to make the carb play friendly with the stock fuel pump. I'm not saying it can't be done, (you've proven that it can by about 99%!) but your setup is more complicated than a standard external electric pump, etc.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Newest theory..

    Quote Originally Posted by grand_marquis_gt
    Turn the key on, without cranking for around 10 secs...allow the fuel pressure to fill the fuel bowl.

    It will fire right up.

    Is ths tested out by an independant contractor?


    No, but seriously, this works?

    R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06 (you will be missed)

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Newest theory..

    Quote Originally Posted by grand_marquis_gt
    Jon mentioned that cause of ,my setup, my fuel bowl will emppty itself overnight, so I figured out how to get the car to start..
    Turn the key on, without cranking for around 10 secs...allow the fuel pressure to fill the fuel bowl.
    It will fire right up.


    When warmed up, and I stomp it, it will get right up and go!
    There is no reason for the bowl to empty. Why do you think that it is? It cannot siphon back. The needle and seat is on the top. If it hesitates when cold and runs great when warm....................welcome to the world of a carburetor!! Now you know why people go to EFI for a daily driver.
    You need to get your choke set and working. You need to set your mixture screws with a warm engine.
    Are you pumping it when it is cold to start?

  5. #5
    Certified Yeti Trainer grandpaslincoln's Avatar
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    The 2150 has what's called an Enrichement valve ( or power valve). It is located underneath the fuel bowl. It is a vacuum operated valve. When your car is under heavy load, say when going up hill, and you have the throttle opened way up or at WOT, the valve loses vacuum, letting it open. When it does this, it allows more fuel into the main fuel wells through a passageway, enrichening the mixture. When the throttle is closed more, there is more vacuum, thus the valve closes and shuts off the fuel flow to the enrichement circuit. When you shut the car off, the vacuum ceases, and the valve opens back up. After a while, the fuel slowly leaks out and down the throat of the carb. It is completely normal, and the only thing I can find wrong with using the 2150.

    My car also runs like shit when I first start it up, but the engine smooths out when she is all warmed up.

  6. #6
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Wait, it's NORMAL for the fuel to leak out of the bowl on this type of carb? Wow. In anything else that's a sign of internal leakage meaning the carb is about screwed.

    The bog at light accel coudl be the accelerator pump not pumping enough, or maybe too much. Try changing which hole the linkage connects to (I assume those things have such a device?)
    If the idle also is crappy, you might need to tweak the mix screws. usually about 1.5 turns out is a good place to start, but ideally you should tune with a vacuum guage connected to get it to the highest reading, then re-adjust the idle set screw to get around 700 rpm hot idle. If the fuel mix is too far out, especially if it runs lean that will cause a hesitation between the low speed circuit and the high speed circuit (about 1/4 throttle). The mix screws should be set evenly too.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by grandpaslincoln
    When you shut the car off, the vacuum ceases, and the valve opens back up. After a while, the fuel slowly leaks out and down the throat of the carb. It is completely normal, and the only thing I can find wrong with using the 2150
    What is a while?
    I have one of these carbs sitting on my bench. It looks like it relies on the venturi vacuum to draw fuel from the area around the power valve. If this is true that is seeps out, I can't believe that Ford would put such a bone headed design into service. I'll have to fill my carb up with fuel and wait and see if the bowl empties before I will believe it though.

  8. #8
    Certified Yeti Trainer grandpaslincoln's Avatar
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    I have no idea how long it takes. I've had two of these that have done it. The first on was a peice of shit, and this brand new reman that I have does it too.

  9. #9
    Ford Police Motorsports trwp72's Avatar
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    moved to CORRECT FORUM!!!


    Agent Caitlin Todd… You know Tony, Statistics show that married men live longer…
    Agent Tony DiNozzo… It only seems longer….

    http://www.tomspolicecars.com/

  10. #10
    Cheese Nazi phayzer5's Avatar
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    Heh, Tom! you're not old enough yet to forget which thread you're posting in :lol:

    RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

    '80 Town Coupé
    '84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
    '16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4

  11. #11
    Ford Police Motorsports trwp72's Avatar
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    No just a long friggen night here at work.... GEEEZ.... I'll move it... Thanks....


    Agent Caitlin Todd… You know Tony, Statistics show that married men live longer…
    Agent Tony DiNozzo… It only seems longer….

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  12. #12
    GMN Founder Grand Marquis GT's Avatar
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    Well, the damn thing quit for a few min on my this morning.

    I get out and piss around under the hood, and my module is HOT AS FUCK! the coil isnt even that warm, and its right by the fuckin motor!

    Today I will write down the wiring I have done. I am using a van distributor, and van module. The colours are all whacky, and if you have them mixed around, you wont get ANY spark. wtf?

    So there has to be only one way to wire them, or it wont fuckin work.

    I hope when I call my insurance co., they total the fucker. im getting sick of this shit. :nonono:
    1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
    Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!


  13. #13
    Cheese Nazi phayzer5's Avatar
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    Add a better ground for the module. The only ground it gets is through that black wire to the dist and into the block.

    RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

    '80 Town Coupé
    '84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
    '16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4

  14. #14
    Certified Yeti Trainer grandpaslincoln's Avatar
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    Somethings definately up. It shouldn't get that hot at all.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5
    Add a better ground for the module. The only ground it gets is through that black wire to the dist and into the block.
    I was thinking about the ground at work today. The module for 351W CV cars is mounted to the plastic inner fender, and I don't remember seeing any additional ground wire/strap for it. I have some pics on my PC, and I do not see any ground straps/wires coming from the box. The Duraspark II is a simple system, so it has to be a simple problem. I have done a pile of points to DII conversions and 2 CFI to carb DIII to DII conversions with no problems. I have always mounted the module to metal though, so it is possible that ground could be an issue with your setup, but going by the 351 cars I have seen, I am not sure why it would be. I still have not found ANY application that uses different colored wires or calls for a different distributor module for a DII system. That part has me stumped so far.

  16. #16
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Does a Duraspark system use a ballast resistor? If so, do you have one / the right one installed? I won't profess to be well versed in Ford stuff, just pondering. Also, is the coil on a Duraspark system different than the coil used on the CFI ignition stuff?

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  17. #17
    Locked and Loaded, ready for the rebellion. RugerP97DC's Avatar
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    He had to cut one off to get it to work.
    2008 Mercury Grand Marquis GS Bone Stock

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  18. #18
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    Default Re: Newest theory..

    Quote Originally Posted by grand_marquis_gt
    Jon mentioned that cause of ,my setup, my fuel bowl will emppty itself overnight, so I figured out how to get the car to start..

    Turn the key on, without cranking for around 10 secs...allow the fuel pressure to fill the fuel bowl.

    It will fire right up.

    But I still have a problem with the car bogging right out at mild acceleration 1/8-1/4 throttle. my timing is dead on. idle sucks too. Sounds like its got a miss. I may change the plugs later.

    What does everyone else think?

    When warmed up, and I stomp it, it will get right up and go!
    Do you have oxygenated fuel where you live?

  19. #19
    Pirate
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    Quote Originally Posted by grand_marquis_gt
    Well, the damn thing quit for a few min on my this morning.

    I get out and piss around under the hood, and my module is HOT AS FUCK! the coil isnt even that warm, and its right by the fuckin motor!

    Today I will write down the wiring I have done. I am using a van distributor, and van module. The colours are all whacky, and if you have them mixed around, you wont get ANY spark. wtf?

    So there has to be only one way to wire them, or it wont fuckin work.

    I hope when I call my insurance co., they total the fucker. im getting sick of this shit. :nonono:
    Did you hook up power to the red or white wire coming out of the Duraspark ignition module? Do you have a 'blue' module?

  20. #20
    Cheese Nazi phayzer5's Avatar
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    I have my duraspark box zip tied to the inner plastic fender, and my only ground for it is the one through the dist. I also use my MSD TFI coil with no ballast resistor, its worked fine since my swap.

    I've talked him through the wiring a few times on the phone and sent him the diagrams i used. The only thing different in his setup is that distributor and the different color wires

    RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

    '80 Town Coupé
    '84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
    '16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4

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