PotM GrandMarq.NET - Panther Headquarters Forum Index PotM
GMN Chat Room GMN's STORE!! GMN's Gallery Please!!
Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: {DRIVETRAIN} New CV 5 speed pedal setup.

  1. #1
    I post a lot... GoodSamaritan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Lawrenceburg, Ky
    Posts
    2,233

    Default {DRIVETRAIN} New CV 5 speed pedal setup.

    Since some of you guys dont seem to come around CVN mush anymore, I decided to put up a copy of something I just came up with.


    This took me a couple of days to come up with. I finally decided to take a few minutes and draw it up in CAD to see how everything will fit.

    As long as the distance between the pivot points are the same, the clutch quadrant should rotate the same number of degrees. I drew it with the pivots of the quadrant and pedal centered so I wouldnt keep running into wierd angles while I was drawing, but nothing would keep you from moving the quadrant up or down a bit for clearance.

    I already have access to the heim joints on the end of the rod that goes between the pedal and the quadrant,(actuator rod) but someone else might want to use something a bit cheaper. By using a matched pair heim joints with female threads,(one normal another with reverse threads and the rod to match) I can vary the length of the rod to adjust the cable, and allow for differences in mounting.

    I could have gone cheaper and used bushings instead of bearings on the quadrant, but I got the pillow blocks on ebay dirt cheap so I went with overkill. I like overkill!!! Muhahahahahahahahaha (....especially when it is cheap) The quadrant wont be wearing out, and or making noise.

    This may or may not work for you guys who have EFI. I am using a carb so this will probably occupy some of the space where the ecm would usually be. However this gives me some extra slack in my clutch cable and minimizes bends so it should work smooth and last a long time, all while getting it away from the headers.

    I have the benifit of having my 1991 out in the barn stripped down to practically a shell on a rolling chassis.
    I can take measurments and test fit everything easily. Also If I drill a whole in the wrong place, etc it doesnt matter.


    If anyone else thinks they may want to try this, you will need the following at a minumum.

    #1 extra CV brake pedal. (did these change any from 79-91???) Make sure to get the little plastic bushings, or order new ones from the dealer. ($2.02 each, minimum of 4 which is exactly how many I need.)

    #2 some nice 1/2 bar stock from the local metal shop. The brake pedal and bushings ride on this. I drilled out one side of the original pedal housing to accept the 1/2" barstock instead of the roughly 1/4" original bolt. The barstock sticks out far enough to hang the extra pedal off of. Considering the strength of the housing, it should be plenty strong. But just in case a buddy of mine is taking it to work with him to spot weld the crap out of the seams on it. (overkill)


    #3 grinder and a BIG hammer. The hardened steel pin that actuates the brake booster is pressed in with a gazillion ton press and THEN welded. In other words take your time and beat the crap out of it with a huge hammer. The pin may or may not be in the way but I decided to play it safe. It all depends on how you mount the quadrant. If you mount it luch lower you may have trouble with the rod that goes between the pedal and the quadrant hitting it when the pedal is pushed.


    #4 aluminum clutch quadrant. I doubt a stock one would last very long.

    Bryan

    here is a link to the pic over on cvn.

    P.s. how do you attach a pic here?

    Bryan
    Owner of the only known 5 speed box wagon with a lift kit.
    AKA, Herkimer the Hillbilly SUV.



    Axle codes
    Open/Lock/Ratio #
    -----------------------
    G / H / 2.26
    B / C / 2.47
    8 / M / 2.73
    7 / - / 3.07
    Y / Z / 3.08
    4 / D / 3.42
    F / R / 3.45
    5 / E / 3.27
    6 / W / 3.73
    2 / K / 3.55
    A / - / 3.63
    J / - / 3.85

  2. #2
    Certified Yeti Trainer grandpaslincoln's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Prineville, Oregon
    Posts
    21,806

    Default



    It's [img]PIC LOCATION[/img]

    For future reference. Looks good by the way. GOOD JOB!

  3. #3
    GMN Founder Grand Marquis GT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 1982
    Location
    Wetumpka, AL
    Posts
    20,422

    Default

    Wow, looks awesome bryan!
    1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
    Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!


  4. #4
    I post a lot... GoodSamaritan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Lawrenceburg, Ky
    Posts
    2,233

    Default

    Thanks,

    Do you guys see any complications with this setup?

    At this point I my main concern is asctually finding a spot big enough to mount it. Once the bearings come in, and I get my 1992 brake booster it should start coming together.

    Bryan
    Owner of the only known 5 speed box wagon with a lift kit.
    AKA, Herkimer the Hillbilly SUV.



    Axle codes
    Open/Lock/Ratio #
    -----------------------
    G / H / 2.26
    B / C / 2.47
    8 / M / 2.73
    7 / - / 3.07
    Y / Z / 3.08
    4 / D / 3.42
    F / R / 3.45
    5 / E / 3.27
    6 / W / 3.73
    2 / K / 3.55
    A / - / 3.63
    J / - / 3.85

  5. #5
    Photobucket Paul_'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Milton, NH
    Posts
    9,234

    Default

    looks good, hopefully you don't hit any snags

    but i still like my autos (in a Vic anyway)
    Save a seal, club a liberal.

  6. #6
    Domestic Tourist Lincolnmania's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Birdsboro PA.
    Posts
    17,352

    Default

    hey bryan! have you thought about a hydraulic clutch setup? IMHO cable operated clutches suck ass! it is a luxury car you know hehe.
    anyway the setup in the drawing should work.......make sure to get an aftermarket adjustable clutch quatrant.......factory ones suck
    scott

    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
    2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
    1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
    1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
    2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
    1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!


  7. #7
    I post a lot... GoodSamaritan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Lawrenceburg, Ky
    Posts
    2,233

    Default

    I have investigated the hydraulic setups. Until today i thought that no t-5 on a ford ever came with a hydraulic clutch. Tonight I found out that some 87-88 turbocoupes and 89+ supercoupes came with a t-5 and a hydraulic clutch.

    Also the european ford, Merkurs came with 2.3 turbos and a variation on the t-5. Since I have a friend who has one as a parts car for a car he no longer has.......

    Bryan
    Owner of the only known 5 speed box wagon with a lift kit.
    AKA, Herkimer the Hillbilly SUV.



    Axle codes
    Open/Lock/Ratio #
    -----------------------
    G / H / 2.26
    B / C / 2.47
    8 / M / 2.73
    7 / - / 3.07
    Y / Z / 3.08
    4 / D / 3.42
    F / R / 3.45
    5 / E / 3.27
    6 / W / 3.73
    2 / K / 3.55
    A / - / 3.63
    J / - / 3.85

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
GMN Approved Links!


www.rockauto.com www.adtr.net