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how do you get exhaust manifolds off

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    how do you get exhaust manifolds off

    I can't get to the bolts underneath the car!! :cuss: I have tried jacking the car, and jacking up the system at all different heights and I just can't get a wrench up to those bolts. I even used a special adapter that lets me go sideways and whatnot with the socket. this is the passengers side im having trouble with, i haven't attempted the drivers. Can the heads be removed without taking off the manifolds?
    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

    #2
    I used an 11/16 deep socket on my 3/8 drive ratchet with 18-24" of extensions. Hit them with some PB Blaster or WD-40 and let them soak for five or ten minutes before you try to break them loose.
    2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
    1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
    1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

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      #3
      For good measure, I always hit exhaust bolts with PB blaster (only PB Blaster is good enough, all else is worthless for this job IMO) a day in advance, and hit them about 5 times before I work on them.

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        #4
        I got fed up with mine and took a sawzall to it
        Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

        Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Blaze86Vic
          only PB Blaster is good enough, all else is worthless for this job IMO)
          Lies!

          I actually used Aerokroil. If that stuff was any stronger, it'd loosen the welds themselves!
          2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
          1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
          1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by mrltd
            I got fed up with mine and took a sawzall to it
            X2 :hacksaw:

            2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
            My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

            Comment


              #7
              You guys don't understand, I CANNOT get to my bolts, there IS NO WAY. I'll have to take a picture. I'm gonna :hacksaw: the shit off.
              1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

              Comment


                #8
                Unless your car is dramaticly different than any other, the flange bolts should actually be pretty simple to get at. long extension and an 11/16 (or 16mm, whatever) socket with a swivel and you can get them. I used a flexi-socket last time, one of the types with the flex part built in. It was a medium well, not a -deep well but they came out decently easy. The ones on my car wouldn't let go and I ended up taking a die grinder to them, but the CV I pulled them on this weekend actually broke loose. If you have a torch handy, get those suckers good and hot and they'll come right apart. Get them glowing, then jam the extension+socket on it and crank away.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Comment


                  #9
                  if you arent saving the pipes, the sawzall works well :chainsaw:

                  1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                  2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                  1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                  1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                  2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                  1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                  please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Dude, I did it, it was easy. Course once I got my fat hands squeezed between the heater box and the manifold, I discovered that none of the bolts were tight, I could unscrew them with my fingers
                    Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
                    Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

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                      #11
                      He also has a 4 cat h pipe. I took one look at the one on my vic and said F it and got the sawzall!

                      2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
                      My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by 89LincolnTWNcar
                        You guys don't understand, I CANNOT get to my bolts, there IS NO WAY.
                        Unless you have a 1 of 1 car with the special stealth exhaust bolt package, you CAN get to them. Whether you have the right socket/extension/swivel combination or not is another question. The sockets with an integral swivel often are the ticket.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I am still confused as to which bolts you are talking about. the bolts that hold the pipe to the manifold? or the bolts that hold the manifold to the head? I either case, both are not terribly difficult to get off.

                          if it is the bolts that hold the pipe to the manifold and you dont plan on using the stock pipes anymore, just cut the pipe 3"-4" behind the manifold and be done with it.
                          2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
                          89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
                          88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


                          I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I found that you can get most of the manifold to head bolts out with a flexi socket and long extension right through the wheel wells. Saves some scrapes on your arms.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I was able to easily access all the manifold-to-head bolts on mine... but I'm running Mustang stock "headers" and I have a warm-air intake that only required loosening one screw to remove.

                              I also didn't need any swivel anything for the manifold-to-pipe bolts... but my entire exhaust has been replaced.

                              Thinking about it, after this, the driveshaft and rear axle will be the only stock parts on the drivetrain... and even those will be replaced before long.
                              2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                              1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                              1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

                              Comment

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