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    Scott and guys maybe you can help. Mu 1990 CV will not start, it started last night after I got gas I got in my car and turned the Ignition and the sound of death to the Starter Solonoid and I called AAA to get me started, so a jump start was unsuccessful and I installed a new Battery still no start, so the AAA tech whacked the Starter Solonoid and my car started and that lead me to beleave that I had a bad one. I installed a new one still no start the sound of death to the solenoid. I it will not cost me a small fortune to fix so help me out if you can. Thanks in advance for all of the suggestions.

    #2
    What type of new solenoid did you install? I know there are bad ones fresh out of the box....had this issue with my Lincoln, it was a new, white in color solenoid (forget the brand) and was bad right out of the box.

    Did you try bridging the two posts on the solenoid with a screwdriver? If it starts, then the solenoid is bad.

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      #3
      Thanks the possibility crossed my mind that I may have a dud out of the box so I will give that a try.

      Comment


        #4
        As Louis sad, jump the stater solenoid, if it starts, it's bad. If it doesn't, you have other issues.
        2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
        2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
        2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
        1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

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          #5
          Pantera77 what other issues I may have if it don't start like the way Louis said?

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            #6
            pull the cables off the solenoid and wire brush them. Sounds like a bad connection there, or the + cable is shot. A 1990 should have the later style starter if I'm not mistaken. Those solenoids are under very little load and rarely go bad with that style starter. They will develop bad connections after a while though, and the battery cables will corrode internally too.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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              #7
              Yep, 1990 should have the newer style starter and if it is the original from the factory starter, like on my 91 MGM before I replaced it, the thin ground wire to the starter tends to corrode.
              http://econtent.autozone.com:24999/z...tbfordpmgr.pdf
              ^That information came with a new my new starter.
              Vic

              ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
              ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
              ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
              ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

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                #8
                90's won't necessarily have the new style starter. My '90 has the old school starter on it.
                1990 MGM: $50 E7 heads, HO cam, Holley SysteMAX lower intake, HO upper intake with an Explorer TB. LSC ECM. Lincoln logs into stock dual exhaust. K&N drop in air filter. Wide ratio AOD, 2400 converter with a 3.08 one tire fire out back. Car is less slow now. Then there's the '92 Beater. Dual 2.25" exhaust with shiny tips. Rumbles nice. Super slow. Burns oil too.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by HiFiMerc View Post
                  90's won't necessarily have the new style starter. My '90 has the old school starter on it.
                  Interesting, I wonder when they switched to the new starter, I assumed it was 90+ all had the new starter.
                  Vic

                  ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
                  ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
                  ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
                  ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by VicCrownVic View Post
                    Interesting, I wonder when they switched to the new starter, I assumed it was 90+ all had the new starter.
                    I think it was mid 90, it was a cross over year. Just like some early 90's have the skinnier rear axle still and some have the wider ones.

                    The fender solenoid went bad on my old 91, which had the newer style starter, so I wouldn't instantly rule it out.
                    2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                    2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                    2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                    1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

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                      #11
                      Don't forget that Ford recalled tons of ignition switches on these cars and trucks. I had everyone of my CVPIs changed out by Ford during the recalls. I also have had several aftermarket switches go bad on other Fords, and have to be replaced them a second time. The switch is located in the column and requires a T-27 anti-tamper bit IIRC.

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                        #12
                        Good point, I had to have the ignition switch replaced in my Towncar several years back.

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                          #13
                          I got out the remote starter out and did the test, the news I have other issues as the possibility is bad starter(maybe) or as mentiond Ignition switch UUUUUGGGG!!!( out come the credit card).

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Guys thanks for the advice and your help, so what killed my car was a bad negative battery cable. Now I gotta deal with a intermittent "check engine" light and yes my PCV and filter have been changed, so I THINK I may have an EGR valve plugged up. I am gonna try and borrow a scan tool to see the Code UUUUUGGGG!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              You can just do the engine running diagnostic test instead getting a scan tool, I may be wrong here but I think it will show you the same codes. And hell, all you need is a paperclip.
                              Current cars:
                              1989 Crown Victoria LTD wagon, 94,872 miles
                              1990 Volvo 240 DL 318,513 miles
                              I've tried foreign cars but I always come back to Ford in the end.

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