New to me 351W build idea?

[turbo2256b]

Front bumper is the first thing to reduce front end weight it weighs around 85 lbs, an aluminum wagon front bumper about 40 lbs.
SEFI weighs more than a carb set up but for extreame altitudes would go with aftermarket CFI.

An air dam from a mid 90s chevy truck can be modded to fit panther front bumper

[sick88tbird]

An air dam from a mid 90s chevy truck can be modded to fit panther front bumper

I just picked up one of those for my coupe, I have yet to mount it, but it looks promising

[pantera77]

I just picked up one of those for my coupe, I have yet to mount it, but it looks promising

They fit pretty much perfect with very little work.

[gadget73]

No, you'd mill right into the cylinder water jackets, there's maybe 1" of material up top there? On roller block castings you need to use sealant on the lower rows of bolts/studs, they'd be blind if there was enough material. Find me a junk block and i'll bring it to work and mill it for shits and giggles. lol

yeah kinda figured that was too easy to actually work. I've never been into a 351 so I don't really know their innards particularly well. Even if it could be done, not really sure what the point of doing it would be.

[turbo2256b]

If my memory is correct deck thickness is about 1/2 inch

[Bobcat]

If it came out of a 1997 with EFI, why does it have a 1974 2bbl intake? You really don't want that nonsense anyway. EFI isn't that hard, and it'll be far likely to run right if you get it tuned. Trying to get a 40 year old carb to work right, especially if you don't know carbs extremely well is a fool's task. Besides, those stock intakes are not worth what the scrap yard will pay for the metal.

A stock 1997 F250 engine was rated to 210 hp and 325 ft-lb of torque. The stock motor makes 160 hp and 280 ft-lb of torque with dual exhaust. Take 10 off each for single.

Skip the C6. Its big and power hungry. Have the AOD rebuilt to handle the power. They will do it, and you'll have 4 speeds vs 3.

Also, not to be a total dickbag, but it would be much easier to read your posts if you broke the sentences up a bit.

Yes, perfectly said. I like that you're using my vocabulary.

The problem with the EFI is that the truck intakes are huge and won't fit under a stock hood. There are the marine intakes, and the lightning stuff, but you know how those are for availability and pricing... Carb is the easiest way to fit a 351 under the stock hood, but that's about it - you'll have to mess with the fuel system something fierce to make sure you don't have gasoline spraying all over, and unless you're patient and willing to learn how to tune a carb the results will never be what you expect them to be.


Also +1 on the keeping your AOD suggestion - the C6 is a power hog, it makes sense for a diesel or a big block where there is no AOD available, but for a small block it's just too much - so some of whatever power the engine swap gains you will be absorbed by the slushbox, not really a good thing to happen.

+1 on C6 not being what you want. +1 on carb.

What about finding a trashed Lightning from that era? That would fill your 351 needs and perhaps it would fit under the hood too. Those were rated at 240hp/340ftlbs where as a late 80's or early 90's 302 HO was rated around 220hp/300ftlbs but significantly cheaper.

A 94-97 truck 351 is a better block than the lightning one, simply because it's roller. Toss on GT40s, cam and you've got virtually the same motor. Also, the whole idea of finding a "wrecked" lightning? Hahahahaha. The lightning intakes can sell for 500$ A piece.

The truck intakes make lovely scrap aluminum. Useless for anything else. There are options that do fit though.

I dislike carbs in general. I think most people have figured that out. I can more or less deal with them, but I never suggest going carb for people who know nothing about them. Its a good way to make an unreliable and miserable to deal with daily driver. If you have someone that knows something about them, go for it but if the advice is to look for 1970s 2bbl intakes, I would advise finding a better teacher. It doesn't need to be anything fancy, but there are a world of better intakes out there with fresh carbs to go with them.

Also, just bear in mind, the motor is only a small piece of the puzzle. If the rear and transmission aren't going to hold up to it, its not a good idea. If the suspension is wasted, it won't ever hook up. If the frame is rotted and the car is ready to break in half, then you're just asking for trouble. Most importantly, if the wallet is empty none of this will ever work. I don't say all this stuff to be a naysayer, I can only tell you that for years I was flat-ass broke with half broken project bullshit cars that were usually working just about well enough to get me to work. I suspect this is why half my hair is gone these days. Have a reliable daily driver before you consider having a project car. Nothing sucks more than being up at 4 AM Monday morning trying to get whatever project done in time to get to work at 8 AM.

Yup DD project cars blow. Luckily I got mine road worthy before driving it.

If your goal is only 230hp I don't know why a 351 is even being considered.

Don't know if this is sarcasm or nah, since that's a pretty easy goal to meet.


I also agree with the broken English being somewhat annoying but somehow fun to read. You need to toss the heads, intake, cam and carb out. Get GT40 heads, some cam of your choice (Don't be a moron and go for some Stage 2-3 bullshit.) Weiand or Edlebroken intake and a edlebroken or Holley 600 carb.
If the dizzy is broken out the block 9 times out of 10, the tractor operator didn't know what the fuck they were doing.

[knucklehead0202]

351 roller blocks have a tendency to crack. You're better off with a pre-roller block and using link-bar lifters. Info here. http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-...lock-guys.html

[killgore]

Don't know if this is sarcasm or nah, since that's a pretty easy goal to meet.


He meant it could be done with a 302 and not have to worry about motor swapping, im guessing.

[pantera77]

Don't know if this is sarcasm or nah, since that's a pretty easy goal to meet.


He meant it could be done with a 302 and not have to worry about motor swapping, im guessing.

Exactly, garbage stock HO parts will get you that.

[DerekTheGreat]

...A 94-97 truck 351 is a better block than the lightning one, simply because it's roller. Toss on GT40s, cam and you've got virtually the same motor. Also, the whole idea of finding a "wrecked" lightning? Hahahahaha. The lightning intakes can sell for 500$ A piece.

Laugh all you want, here's one near me that isn't wrecked for $3,500.
http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/cto/5217475729.html
You could even keep the truck as a beater if you slap a I6 in the 351's place. Simply because it's a roller? Roller cams are better but I've got no objections to flat tappets. For the goals stated it was a decent idea. I did say a stock 302 HO would put him close as well but listed the Lightning as an option if he was dead set on a 351.

[88Vic]

As for venting air out the hood from the back of he radiator. 10% cooling of the engine is from the air entering the front of the car and blowing around the engine. 50% cooling by oil and 40% coolant. Removing too much of that 10% can cause issues.

I think the cowl-induction type hoods are better, they vent heat from the back of the engine bay so the air has already blown around the engine and heated up, they let the heat go somewhere when you're idling. I plan on getting one for my trucks when I get the money.

[turbo2256b]

I think the cowl-induction type hoods are better, they vent heat from the back of the engine bay so the air has already blown around the engine and heated up, they let the heat go somewhere when you're idling. I plan on getting one for my trucks when I get the money.

That depends on some things. Having used several cowl induction set ups. Also raised the rear of hoods up a couple inches to let air out. Taped a pieces of string along the edges to get an idea of air flow.
In general air in the middle of the windshield area air is moved into the engine compartment about 8" or less from each side of the hood and along the hood and fender edge air moves out of the engine compartment.

[turbo2256b]

Here is a pic of my Mustang explaining how air vents from inside the wheel well. It dosent work on a Panther the wheel/tire is too close to the at the rear to the fire wall. It would have to be vented into the engine compartment then directed out of the fender. All the air would be mixed together wouldnt work that well.

On the Mustang it worked relay well it completely got rid of hydroplaning could run 60+ MPH in 2 or 3" of standing water with no issues

Area of cutout I made in the fender

[turbo2256b]

This shot shows direction of air flow with hood raised.

If the hood was cowl induction you can see arrows in the middle of the hood. The rectangular area along the side edge of the hood would be the best area to let air from under the hood.

I tested this stuff years ago by coasting down a hill. Would hit 60MPH shift into neutral and coast and note speed.
Stock would slow down. Raising the hood speed held steady. Cutting vents in the fenders speed increased.

[turbo2256b]

Also did some testing with hood raised and center portion in front of the plenum were arrows point into the engine compartment I duck taped so as to not allow air under the hood allowing it to only exit along the edges and sides possibly worked a bit better.