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Thread: Need more help...

  1. #81
    Member Salty Dog's Avatar
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    The TPS will cause it to do some weird things. High idle, die in neutral, ext. I replaced my TPS and the code 63 went away. I'd get that squared away and then re-evaluate. I also took care of code 34 with a new EGR position sensor. My EGR was a little dirty and I cleaned it, but It was working fine.
    Last edited by Salty Dog; 03-23-2017 at 11:09 AM.

  2. #82

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    I wonder if the timing chain could have jumped or the cam is washed out


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  3. #83
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    If it runs the chain probably did not jump. Whenever I've seen that, you lose all compression. usually it bends valves. The ignition timing would also have moved significantly.

    Unlikely the cam is damaged, but if it was you'd have a lot of top end clatter. That one I can speak to, since I trashed a cam from some very unusual circumstances. Short of the lifters being damaged in such a way that they stop rolling, the cams pretty much never wear.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body, 246k and counting

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  4. #84
    88 LTC nfldfordltd's Avatar
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    Check for voltage feeding the TPS as well. I recently had this issue with a 91 F-150 5.0, TPS was coming up bad both by codes and testing with a volt meter. It was completely dead. Turns out there was an open in the wiring circuit feeding the TPS, MAP sensor and EGR valve. EGR was deleted already, but the MAP sensor had power to it and was trying to function normally but couldn't due to no TPS signal. I spliced a wire into the feed wire at the MAP sensor and the other end into the feed at the TPS. I still had a faulty TPS, but changed it for another one I had lying around and presto! Runs like a charm now.
    Prior to the fix, it was flooding very, very badly, wouldn't stay running when cold at all, and would idle very high when warm unless the IAC was unplugged. Which was very strange as nothing I ever had would even run without the IAC plugged in and operating at least semi-properly.
    You should have 5V to the TPS, EGR and MAP KOEO. If not, investigate wiring before throwing parts and/or money at it.

    Summer car-> 1988 Lincoln Town Car, triple blue, 266,xxx km. Engine currently being built for installation this spring. Put to bed for the winter on 2016/11/12. Bought 2006/08/22.
    Winter vehicle-> 1996 Ford F-150 XL 4x4, red, 298,xxx+km. AKA "Dennis". All done and ready to run this winter, painted and all. Bought 2013/11/26.

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #85

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    Only have this much vacuum


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  6. #86
    I post a lot...
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    Either bad timing or a leak. Assuming your engine is not totally worn out.

    Just by the way the timing indicator can be confusing. I forgot which part of the indicator you are supposed to use to set the timing. I seem to remember it was not the part I thought it was many years ago.
    GMN donor. 89 Colony Park LS Mods>HO, 4 spray injectors, 2.25SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 93 CV radio, Kenwood Speakers, 16" HPP wheels, 225-60/16 BFG advantage TA's, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft, HELLA H4's SS ultras H1 highs. It needs rear interior trim & headliner. Please help

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  7. #87
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Its the top flat edge that you use. Also, there are marks from about 30 BTDC to 20 ATDC on there. Make sure you have the 10 BTDC line marked. I once set mine to 10 ATDC and it ran pretty stupid. I've also accidentally timed it to TDC by looking at the wrong mark.

    15 inches either means the timing is way off, the engine is totally pooched, or a big leak. A leak that big should make for a very high idle.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body, 246k and counting

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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