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Thread: 2000 GM Restore and Build

  1. #61
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    I was by myself so it was tough sliding it on but yes. there was a gap about half the width of your index finger left.

  2. #62
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    I just wish I knew more lol sucks.

  3. #63
    No mean-spiritedness here. IPreferDIY's Avatar
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    Did you get the 99 or the 01?

    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Mercury View Post
    ADTR said I am good on the housing as long as i get the Fabtec spacer and hybrid u-joint. we will see. ...
    Use of the original slip yoke and the spacer is a convenient alternative to changing the tailshaft housing.
    Last edited by IPreferDIY; 01-10-2020 at 03:07 PM.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box "tuba" (in place of the "trumpet"), headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, NKL4 PCM (from a 2000 CVPI, nothing great there apart from highway cruising), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks (after >202,000 km on originals)

  4. #64
    Vinyl Cheese, Meat Pasty SVT98t's Avatar
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    True.
    But if the transmission is out of the car, its a little easier unbolting those 6 bolts and swapping it out. That's why I suggested it. And it's probably much cheaper than having to buy a spacer and a u-joint.

    Is the shifter linkage hooked up to the transmission?

    As Dave said, the TQ converter will bolt up to the engine regardless if it's properly seated in the trans. That what can make this task a shitshow. That's why I pull the motor and transmission as a combo when ever I have to replace either one. It's much easier to do outside of the vehicle, essentially in your lap.

    Does the junkyard have any type of warranty?


    -ryan s.
    08 Lincoln Navigator L - 183k
    03 Mercury Marauder- 61k
    97 Ford Crown Victoria HPP "Tank of Justice III" (TOJ3) - 193k -->578.9 miles on ONE tank of gas<--
    73 VW Super Beetle "Bunky" <----- Wifey's
    Quote Originally Posted by pantera77 View Post
    Well my buddy tells him he knows exactly who loves buying shitboxes.

  5. #65
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    I went with a 98 I found at a different yard and they have a 30 day warranty. The not seated part seems right from what y'all and the Google has said. but who knows. The pump, not seated and just a bad trans all make sense.
    The linkage is hooked up. It is a little off, however. Neutral is in-between R and N but its functional. The car will go into neutral and park and the engine even bogs down when i put it in drive or reverse. Tires just don't turn.

    This is a ton of what ifs and time. I think I am just going to try and get a Monster Trans. Then, take Ryan's advice and pull the engine. Install it outside so I know for a fact its done right. (take care of some other things while out) Problem is I can only work on it at work so leaving an engine and trans out to come back to wont be an option if I don't finish. I would have to do it all in one day and night while we are closed. There are worse things to have to complain about huh lol

    I am going to take the junkyard trans out this Sunday and start preparing the engine to be pulled.. yeah.. That way once the new trans comes, all I would have to do it hoist the engine out, slap the trans on and then set it in the car, then Reassemble everything a different day. Long as I can get the car and parts out the shop before we open the next day.
    Last edited by Charlie Mercury; 01-10-2020 at 05:45 PM.

  6. #66
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    I guess you can decide if it is worth seeing if the converter is seated properly in the trans. I guess you need to know how to do that with whatever trans goes in. And you can consider the swap Ryan suggested while it is out.
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
    03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer, Silver Stars, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector.
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  7. #67
    No mean-spiritedness here. IPreferDIY's Avatar
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    I don't know much about trannys, but I doubt pump failure is all that common in these ones. I would be inclined to give the TC alignment another go. I had a similar but different problem with a TC replacement on a front transaxle Tempo. The TC moved enough the first time so that the transaxle wouldn't tighten down without warping the flex plate, and I had to take the transaxle out and try again. Once you know the TC is properly aligned, there's a trick where you bolt a piece of flat bar or whatever (bent as needed) to the case to keep the TC from moving forward on you. You still have to be careful after you get to the point where the bar has to be removed, but at least you know you're okay to that point.

    There should be an adjuster in the steering column to allow you to line up the shift indicator.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box "tuba" (in place of the "trumpet"), headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, NKL4 PCM (from a 2000 CVPI, nothing great there apart from highway cruising), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks (after >202,000 km on originals)

  8. #68
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    Thank you for the suggestions. Taking all that apart again and putting it back together just to try and reset the TC on a used (possibly bad) transmission does not sound fun to me. I should do it (as jaywish suggested) to learn. Hopefully I didnt actually damage the trans from the TC not being on right and sitting there letting it run and revving it up for a few minutes.
    Last edited by Charlie Mercury; 01-11-2020 at 12:43 PM.

  9. #69
    No mean-spiritedness here. IPreferDIY's Avatar
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    Dunno how tranny expert 88grandmarq feels about PMs in situations like this, but sending him a PM might be something to consider.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box "tuba" (in place of the "trumpet"), headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, NKL4 PCM (from a 2000 CVPI, nothing great there apart from highway cruising), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks (after >202,000 km on originals)

  10. #70
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Again, I only raised the torque converter question as you said you drawn the transmission in with the bolts. It may very well have been done correctly and you have another issue. Just brainstorming to help the ideas start flowing to get you a resolution.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  11. #71
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    I really am very appreciative of everyone's responses and help. I really need it. Helps keep the brain going and motivation up. I am going to take it back out tomorrow morning while we are closed. Having done it a couple times and I will have help this time, I don't think it will be that bad.
    Last edited by Charlie Mercury; 01-11-2020 at 04:02 PM.

  12. #72
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    Took it out this morning, OH MY GOODNESS..how much easier that is with help. Could not even get the torque converter off and the new fluid I put in smelled soooo bad.. make you vomit bad, so it's strapped down in the bed of the truck and will be returning it to the you-pull-it yard Wednesday. Ordered a Monster Trans and Thor 2500 stall. Should be 3-5 weeks.. so until then..

    note: having a ginormous trunk is awesome..

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  13. #73
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    Spoke with Marty at Mo's yesterday. Also called Monster in order to make a game plan. The guys at ADTR have been so patient with all my questions. I recommend giving them an email or call. Really helped me make most of my choices and decisions with the car.

    For anyone that has never or is interested in modifying their car for the first time, the cost is not as terrible (I guess in my opinion) as many have made it out to be. Just a tune and gear change will make a big difference. The tuner and tune shipped will be $505. Gears and the install kit was $318. Aluminum drive shaft from a CVPI in the you-pull-it yard was $18. Spacer was $45-$50ish. Cost of gear install will vary but I have gotten quotes from $325 (guy in his garage) to a reputable shop at $475-$525. Less than $1,500.00 is not bad at all for a start. I think this will drop me from a super duper bone stock time of 16.91 in the 1/4 (10 years ago when the car had 80,000 miles) to into the 15.99's. Car currently has 181,000 and has barely been driven, if at all the last 4 years. I will of course post that.

  14. #74
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    Still waiting on the trans and converter. They called me yesterday to let me know they were waiting on converter parts. Should ship out next week around Tuesday/Wednesday. Would like to be installing Sunday the 23rd. Drive around a week or so and get some miles on it. Depending on how work goes, Would order the tune from Mo's and get the 4.10s in. Would love to go to TX2k and run the steets with the new trans and gears in. Pretty short notice but would be cool. Next step will be sending the car to the body shop to get the holes in the back doors under the side molding filled and the rust on the roof taken care of.

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