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Thread: Got a parcel today.....

  1. #1
    V8 addict and rescuer of unsaleable Full Sizes
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    Default Got a parcel today.....

    from our good friends at RA.

    Content: Ign. lock, hood insulation retainer clips, two window gears, window channels (yes, it was back in stock) and dew wipes.

    Changed out the ignition lock already, POC (Piece of Cake ). Was a bit notchy to get the old one out and the new one in, but succeded in the end. One needs to know that the lock must be in the "on" position, but the description, that comes with the lock is pretty clear and easy to follow.

    The lock swap itself took about five minutes, may be 30 min. in total incl. disconnecting battery, removal of steering column panel and resetting of the clock as a last step. No pictures as it is so straight forward.

    I will now turn to the channels and wipes soon, the wife already complaints about the wind coming in at higher speeds.
    Regards, Alex


  2. #2
    V8 addict and rescuer of unsaleable Full Sizes
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    I worked on the window channel and dew wipe for the front passenger door yesterday. Was hoping to get the stuff in within like 3 h, turned out I needed double the time.

    The parts arrived quickly from RA and made a good impression, nothing to complain about at first glance. The install of the channels is straight forward, plus there is helpful information on other threads on this forum. I took off the door panel (cracked, plus brittle plastic fasteners:-( more to put on the list...), rolled the window down and started pulling out the remains of the old channel. Man, that stuff was hard as plastic and brittle as h*ll! I seperated into pieces as I tried to grab and pull, so most of it ended up in the door bottoms where I vacuumed it out.

    I then started to push in the new channel. Harder to put in than I thought! The channel didnīt want to seat eaqualy, it either was good on one side and bad on the other or the other way round. I worked my way up on the A-pillar side and also put that little metal guide back in. Did the slit trick on the wide angle, still didnīt seat too good. Maybe not enough slits, I made about half a dozend, about 1/4" apart. By now I already had spent about an hour on the channel and I knew I couldnīt go on like this.

    I decided to use some WD40 both on the rubber and in the steel channel. As expected that helped quite a bit, the rubber now went in a lot quicker and those two little "tabs" snapped in better and held the felt in. I also tried the slit trick in the 90° angle but wasnīt happy with how it came out, so after two or three approaches I decided to simply cut the rubber 45°. The result looks ok to me, I havenīt driven the wagon yet, though. The next harder part was to push the felt in the last like 12-15", down under the door panel. I generously cut off some of the lenght and pushed and pryed the rubber between the steel channel and the edge of the glass. The WD40 helped again.

    Rolled up the window, had to help a bit on the 120° angle - looked ok. I applied some heat, thinking that might help seat the rubber. Not sure if it really does.


    I then turned to the dew wipe. Getting the trim off of the car was a bit different to what David had described. The CP only has an acorn nut closed to where the door lock is and a short self-tapping screw on the front end, nothing in the middle. To get to the front one, one has to remove a rubber guide that helps the window find itīs way. I also loosened the center screw in the mirror housing (tight!) and tilted it a bit. Then I carefully pryed up the trim out of the four metal fasteners, wiggled it out between the upper door edge, steel door channels and mirror and off it was. That was the easy part!


    No problem in taking off the stables either. I used a smaller screwdriver and needle nose pliers. Yes, the are stiff, but itīs doable. I cut the new wipe, attached it with cloth pins and a C-clamp and punched the holes for the old staples into the new material. I then stuck the first old staple thru the holes, which was harder than expected as the staples were not quite straight, although I took the kinks out of them beforehand. Bending the staples back into position, I found I couldnīt fold them firm enough to press the new rubber to the trim. I used pliers, a vice, chisle and hammer - no success, the material was kind of wobbly on the trim. I am certain it wouldnīt have fallen off, but I was far away from what I wanted.

    I then decided to rivet the dew wipe to the trim, which worked pretty good. As I ran out of rivets that fit well during the process I had to use bigger ones, forming a bigger knob on the outside. Being done I realized I forgot the metal clips, and though I had been reported they werenīt necessary, I decided I wanted them. I pryed up the wipe from the trim just a little with a screwdriver, slit the clip between both parts where the window in the trim is and pressed it into the rubber with waterpump pliers. Worked like a charm. Been done, I put the trim back on the door, pushed the clips into the corresponding openings (one needs to ckeck from inside), attached the acron nut, put in the front screw and re-attached the rubber guide.

    Rolled up the window. Hmmmm.

    The window now goes up and down slow, way slower than before. Understandable, as the channel felt and the new wipe now both "clamp" the glass. However, the glass now also pulls out a piece of about 4-5" of the rolled-in part of the felt, right in the middle of the vertical, rear channel, on the inside of the vehicle. When the glass is up, it looks crumbled in this area. I believe the reason for this is the glas now being pushed in too far from the new, longer lip of the dew wipe. Can the tilt of the glass be adjusted? That might help. Furthermore, the window pulls out about 3" of felt in the diagonal part of the window frame, right down where the frame meets the door, by the A-pillar. No idea why that is the case, without load the felt looks like itīs sitting ok. I might have to use some silicone to glue the rubber into the steel channel.

    Am I happy with the results?

    In terms of functionality, i.e. keeping the rain and wind out, I guess everthing is better than missing felt and wipe. However, the crumbeling and pulled out felt really sucks. If someone thinks this is due to bad installation, feel free to tell me.

    In terms of aesthetics I am not too happy. The window channel rubber/felt part is way different from the original part. OEM it is 1/3rd outside of vehicle, 2/3rds inside of vehicle, so the glass doesnīt run right in the middle. The new part, however, is 50/50. OEM is felt inside, rubber outside, the new part is felt allover. OEM, the rubber outside part wraps like 75% of the frameīs chrome trim, the new part only covers like 25% maybe. If you want to call me picky, you are spot on. But to me those details make a luxury car, even an old one. They add to the plush and cosiness and comfort of the vehicle.

    Yes, I am aware of the fact that there is no other known replacement and I am thankful that David and others were the guiney pigs and tried those parts out.
    Regards, Alex


  3. #3
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    the glass guides can be adjusted in the rear I think. If you look towards the bottom part of the channel you should find a bolt where it attaches to the inside of the door skin. That should be slotted and allow for some adjustment. The guide rod that runs top to bottom should also be slotted down at the bottom of the door if you need to tweak it. Silicone spray in the felt also helps the glass slide through it if you've got sticking problems.

    The felt should sit in the channel fairly well. Might need to use a pushy tool to fully seat it. I used a putty knife or one of those plastic trim prybars to force it into the channel all the way.

    and the old stuff coming out in crumbs is pretty typical. I vacuumed more of mine up than I threw in the trash.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  4. #4
    V8 addict and rescuer of unsaleable Full Sizes
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    Iīll check on how to do the adjustment next time Iīm in there. I believe I need to change out the actuator as this one seems so frozen I canīt even pull up the rod with pliers.
    Regards, Alex


  5. #5
    V8 addict and rescuer of unsaleable Full Sizes
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    I did the rear drv side door pwr window motor today. The glass wouldnīt go up and down smoothly, but stuck halfways and needed some help to close and open all the way. I was pretty sure it was the gears, and so it was.

    Taking out the motor was fairly easy as some PO must have had worked on the motor before, the three holes were already there. I opend the housing on the bench and found the big white gear broken into two or three pieces, held together only by the grease in there. RAīs spares incorporate the gear assembly unit, a tiny O-ring and a mini pack of white silicone(?) grease. I swapped the unit, packed the housing with grease, skipped replacing the O-ring and was done. Put the remains in the shelf for future repairs.

    Unfortunately I decided to open the motor too, once it was off the car. Took off the cap, cleaned the inside and components a bit and sprayed some grease in there as well. Upon reassembly I realized that a) getting the cap with the brushes back on wasnīt too easy and b) the brushed had been used up quite a bit, less than 1/4" is left. So when the motor goes out some time in the future, itīs most likely the brushes. Anybody know if they are available separately?

    The brushes run in a flat plastic part which is attached to the cap. They are NOT accessable through the cap or from the outside at all. At first I thought I would spend hours finding a way to get it all back together, but then I was able to carefully pry the plastc piece from the cap, slide it over the shaft, bring the brushes back in place and put the cap back on at last. Took some time as the brush springs were restive, but finally succeded. The rest was putting all back together in reverse order.

    Window goes up and down like new.

    On to the pass. side...!
    Regards, Alex


  6. #6
    V8 addict and rescuer of unsaleable Full Sizes
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    Pass side finished!

    Similar to drv side, just this time the three little plastic thingies inside the white gear ring were, well, gone, pulverized, nonexistent. Swapped in the replacement kit and all was good...

    Luped everything up while I was in the doors anyway. What impressed me most was the rock solid, dry and completely rust free sheet metal on both doors! Even the holes in the bottom were free and clean.

    Not sure if Iīll do the drv side window channel next or go directly into the tailgate. Iīll need some help on this one as the window doesnīt go down (neither key nor switch), the pwr door lock actuator doesnīt lock/unlock and the door canīt be swung down. I believe it latches on both latches, though. Not sure what part to start with, window motor?
    Regards, Alex


  7. #7
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I've not found a source for the brushes but I haven't looked too hard either. I'd like to, the OE motors are better built than most of the aftermarket ones and I'd like to be able to repair mine if possible. I have one thats intermittent and I'm pretty sure its worn brushes. Slam the door and it will run again for a while. I don't happen to have a spare motor laying around to use for sizing and I haven't been motivated to pull the one out of the car. Its on the door that I can't open with it parked where it is. Shame on me for not having spares, I've got a total of 10 of them in use.



    need to get the glass down before the gate will drop, so I'd start there.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  8. #8
    V8 addict and rescuer of unsaleable Full Sizes
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    Did the drv side channel yesterday.

    Same as pass side, except that I skipped taking the door panel off. Took out the old brittle stuff, cleaned everything up, lubed the new felt and steel channel and pushed and slid the felt down into the steel channel inside of the door. Worked pretty good.
    Regards, Alex


  9. #9
    V8 addict and rescuer of unsaleable Full Sizes
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    Question about pwr door locks:

    Should all five locks on the CP be key-operated or does the key only unlock one door and you would have to push the button on the armrest to unlock the other doors?
    Regards, Alex


  10. #10
    Approaching 2 decades of DDing Box Panthers VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    Unlock the door with the key, then push the button on the armrest to unlock the rest.
    Vic

    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic


  11. #11
    V8 addict and rescuer of unsaleable Full Sizes
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    Regards, Alex


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