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Thread: Charging issues

  1. #1

    Default Charging issues

    I had my high beams on, radio, heater, and rear defrost, then the battery was charging at 12.9 to 13.5 and then the car died. With nothing on at all it charges at 14-14.2v, I was wondering if I should upgrade to a 100a alternator, or finally do a 3g swap, any ideas would help, thanks

  2. #2
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    3G swap and ride. You’ll appreciate the difference.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  3. #3

  4. #4
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    You should be able to. It comes with decent instructions IIRC. Tells you how to retain choke and whatnot.

    I bought that kit for my father and his 1985 mustang GT (with carburetor) and he has no issues for a couple years now.

    EDIT. You will likely need a bunch more 4 gauge power cable. The kit caters to the fox body which in those years had the alternator on the passengers side right next to the battery.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  5. #5

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    thanks, appreciate the help!

  6. #6
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    The 100a needs a different upper bracket, and doesn't really have much better idle speed output than the 50 or 60a you have now. Honestly no point in using one. The 3g is the better unit.

    I'm cheap though, I'd get just the alternator and deal with the wiring myself. The conversion regulator is literally a box with a jumper in it. There isn't anything special about it. It doesn't even have 2 jumpers so you have a battery reference line direct from the battery.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  7. #7

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    I think im going to gather everything I need from the wreckers, and parts store, it seems to be the cheapest option for the 3g swap.

  8. #8
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1985crownvicltd85 View Post
    I think im going to gather everything I need from the wreckers, and parts store, it seems to be the cheapest option for the 3g swap.
    That's not a bad idea. That's how I did mine.

    This is my typical forumla:
    1.) Get any small case 3G, preferably from a '94-'00 V6 Mustang. I just like the voltage regulator plug position on those, but the '94-'99 3.0 OHV Taurus/Sable ones work fine.
    2.) Take the voltage regulator pigtail from the donor car.
    3.) Yank the whole charge cable from a '96-'99 OHV Taurus/Sable (gotta extract it from the main harness on the radiator support).
    4.) Grab the 175 amp mega fuse from the car with the charge cable.
    5.) Purchase a bolt and lock nut (or lock washer and nut combo) that'll fit the top hole so you can tighten the alternator into place.
    Opt. 6) Get a fuse holder for the mega fuse. I've just taken the mega fuse and bolted it together on one end with the charge cable and put the other end directly on the stud coming off the starter solenoid. It's not as pretty, but it's been working for over three years, so YMMV.
    Opt. 7) Get a new belt. You may actually have to get one anyway if the old one doesn't fit. In my case, using a alternator from a '96 V6 Mustang, I needed a K060509 (alternate no. 6PK1295) belt.

    Also, you could substitute ripping the whole charge cable out if you're not feeling up to it by just getting a battery cable at a parts store that's long enough, and then hooking up the fuse.
    Last edited by Kodachrome Wolf; 01-19-2020 at 05:31 PM.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  9. #9

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    Im thinking of buying this: https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/30831
    and then buying an alternator on rock auto.

    Is there anything else im missing besides the belt, bolt and nut for the alternator?
    Last edited by 1985crownvicltd85; 01-19-2020 at 09:46 PM.

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  11. #11
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Taurii? Taureses? whatever the plural is. They have a nice charge cable and fuse that can be robbed. Takes a little time to extract it from all the clips and zip ties but its got the proper end to fit the alternator and its long enough to fit a Panther. There is a 175 amp fuse in there too. You want a fuse holder for it. Not 100% if you can steal that from the Taurus, I don't exactly remember what it looks like but its a common type fuse that a stereo shop ought to have a holder for.

    if you're junkyard shopping. Just a thought.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  12. #12
    Approaching 2 decades of DDing Box Panthers VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    The fuse holder is integrated into the under hood fusebox on a Taurtus if I'm not mistaken.
    I found the Taurtus charge to be a little short but am using one on one of the cars with a 1 or 2 (I think 2) foot length of 4 gauge wire between the fuse and fender solenoid. Fuse holder ends up on the front side of the radiator support above the passenger side head lights in my case.

    The 4 gauge wire I bought on ebay meets SAE J-1127 which apparently makes it perfect for this type of application. Here's a link to the wire I bought from the seller that I got mine from: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lugged-RED-...-/301062820909. The 5/16 end that seller offers should fit the alt and the fuse holder, might need one end with 3/8 to fit the solenoid (I think), but you do have to specify the ends you want otherwise you get one end with 5/16 and the other with 3/8.

    On one of my cars I did not use the Taurtus charge cable, I ordered both the long (alt to fuse holder) and short (fuse holder to solenoid) cables from that seller. I think it was something like 7ft (MAYBE, can't remember and purchase history doesn't go back that far (2017)) and 1 or 2 ft. I would have liked another foot on the long cable though.
    Vic

    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic


  13. #13

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    When upgrading to 3g, have any of you added a resistor just in case the warning lamp burns out?

  14. #14
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    The lamp lasts just shy of eternity. Its only ever on with the key on and the engine not running, or in the event of a failure.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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