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Thread: Keyless Entry and Lighting Issues

  1. #21
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I'd honestly check the ground in the trunk first, probably the more accessible item. Also more likely to be at fault if the resistance directly at the sender reads normally.

    Might also have to check the IVR output. Thats normally done with a test light or an analog meter since it pulses on/off. If its not pulsing reliably the gauge reading will go funky. I think that one you have to pull the cluster to access.

    not sure on the other connector. There are several down in that area, and accessibility is questionable at best. Lots of crap packed into that space.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  2. #22
    Carthago delenda est Lutrova's Avatar
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    I grabbed the instrument cluster off the same junkyard Town Car that I've been pulling all sorts of other goodies from. My plan is to swap out the fuel gauge and message center (which is fully functional but sometimes dims or displays random characters), or if the printed circuit looks bad then the whole cluster sans speedometer/odometer. There's a good deal of rust behind the dash, and coupled with various component failures previously noted in this thread I think the amount of moisture in the air over 30 years in the Pacific Northwest took its toll on the electronics of my car. Swapping out what I can from the donor junkyard Arizona car seems like it might do the trick.

    In other news, the mirror thermometer light randomly started working tonight. First time I've seen it lit in the year and a half that I've owned the car. So that's interesting. It comes on with the running lights, which I assume is normal. Will have to see whether it continues to work.

    I completely removed the driver's mirror to do the weatherstripping and dew wipe. I guess the fault must've been at the connector in the door.
    1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

  3. #23
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    On the mirror thermometer light, sounds like a thin layer of oxidation on the terminals. So, as you said, the issue is likely at the connector. Unplugging and plugging it back in likely scraped through that layer of oxidation creating a better connection. If it stops working again, unplug and clean the terminals. The oxidation might not be obvious, but if you scrape at the terminals you might notice they appear more shiny where the oxidation layer was scraped off.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - returning summer 2020, I finally have an engine
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - Rotting Retired Winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  4. #24
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    heat may be an even bigger problem for the electronics. My Mark VII is a Florida car and all of the electronic stuff has been rebuilt or replaced, sometimes more than once. The caps blew up in everything and leaked nasty goo everywhere. My Continental sat for a decade in Buffalo, NY which isn't exactly the driest place on earth and everything in it works fine.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #25
    Carthago delenda est Lutrova's Avatar
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    I swapped out the fuel gauge and message center display. The message center was dimming occasionally, so I guess it'll take a week or more before I can tell whether that's been fixed.

    The fuel gauge appears to be better than before, but still somewhat erratic. Switching to accessory a half dozen times in the garage produced fuel levels within 3 bars of each other, although sometimes it read as flashing empty - not the open circuit flashing. It seems to be a tossup whether on any given attempt the gauge will read correctly or empty. My wife and I went on a short road trip today, maybe 80 miles round trip. The gauge started out empty but after a few minutes started ticking up to the correct level, where it seemed to keep pace with fuel consumption for the rest of the trip.

    So while things aren't quite fixed, if it continues to either work or malfunction in a way that's very clear, I suppose I can live with that. It's possible this replacement gauge is defective in new ways that I'm now running into. And now that I have two I feel less apprehensive about opening up one and checking capacitors and such.
    1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

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