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Thread: Crown Vic Frame Rot

  1. #21
    Member ZackN920's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Northern IL.


    Damn, that sucks. Such a nice car otherwise.

    With how I am, I'd fix it. But, before you weld it or have it welded find out what is required in your area regarding such repairs if you are require to get it inspected. We don't have inspections where I'm at, so I was free to weld my wagon up as needed.

    My Jeep Grand Wagoneer was much worse than that. I tought myself how to weld (Well- I learned from reading, watching video's and lots of practice) over the coarse of a year and then finally fixed it myself. Had to do a lot of fabbing to make a patch to weld in and some reinforcing beyond that to make sure it was good and strong. At this point in time, you can't even tell my frame was ever repaired. Other than that the metal on that side isn't rusty and scaley anymore. It takes a lot of time and work- so it's not for everyone. I wouldn't bother on common stuff, but on rare hard to find stuff- sometimes it's the only way to go.
    1987 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series-98k miles- LOPO 302, AOD, open 3.27, Dual exhaust w/ Thrush Turbo mufflers

    the others...
    1926 Dodge Brothers Business Sedan- 212ci I4/3 speed/crank start
    1987 Dodge Dakota- 3.9/A999/3.90/2wd (storage)
    1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-AMC360/727/NP229/3.08/2" lift(daily)
    1994 GMC Burban L05 350/4L60e/241/3.42
    2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0/AW4/231/3.73 (limbo)

  2. #22


    For those that have had this caused by the air conditioner was it condensate from the evaporator drain or sweat from the accumulator hitting the frame? Is it possible to relocate the evaporator drain with a piece of hose if this is the culprit?

    I hurt my back yesterday otherwise I would go crawl under my 85 to see.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #23
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005


    lot more water from the evaporator. The drain is more of a gap between the evap case and the firewall. If you climb under there and look straight up at the bottom of the case you'll see it. A rubber tube siliconed in place and run down the firewall to drip below the frame should sort it. Just have to make sure the tube isn't inserted so far that it holds water in the case, and it has to be large enough to drain. Basically the biggest hose you can get in that hole is the right size. Keep it as straight as you can so it doesn't trap garbage and so its not impossible to clean out later.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  4. #24


    Thanks gadget! Hopefully my back is better in a few days so I can crawl under there and get a drain tube setup.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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