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Thread: Cooling problems

  1. #21
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    if its that nasty I might be tempted to yank the block drains first and get as much loose crap as possible out of the block before using any sort of cleaner. No point in making it work extra hard if you can dump a fair bit of the crap first.


    Looks like ThermoCure is an Evaporust product? I've used Evaporust on stuff before, does work well, but it does indeed turn rust black. I don't recall it smelling like much of anything so it must have some extra herbs and spices in it.

    thing with pressure washing a radiator is that it won't dissolve any crap thats stuck in the tubes and causing it to not flow or transfer heat effectively. I have cleaned heat exchangers with muriatic acid before, common thing on boats, but those are bronze. Not sure what that would do to aluminum. Vinegar might be an option though. Cleaning vinegar is a little more concentrated than food grade. If you pull the radiator and lay it flat, then fill it with vinegar it should dissolve out any lime or rust if you let it sit for a few hours.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
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    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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  2. #22
    Member 91merc's Avatar
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    Well I'm going to install some guages and go from there, yesterday it took about 60 miles for the engine light to come on. The radiator hoses were solid and no coolant was boiling out, but it got the th point where it had a shudder to it so I had to let it cool
    Last edited by 91merc; 08-21-2022 at 09:54 AM.

  3. #23
    Member 91merc's Avatar
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    I think I might also put a NEW fan clutch, cooler thermostat, and do a ThermoCure flush

  4. #24
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 91merc View Post
    I think I might also put a NEW fan clutch, cooler thermostat, and do a ThermoCure flush
    Don’t run a colder than factory thermostat. Any of the EFI systems use coolant temperature for fuel enrichment tables, so if the car never fully warms up, it’s likely to waste fuel and possibly have drivability issues.

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  5. #25
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Thermostat sets the minimum engine temperature. Max is determined by how effective it is at dumping heat, so basically radiator condition and air flow through it. Good to know that the thermostat is actually opening when it should though. Can check that on the stove with a pot of water and a thermometer. if it doesn't open within 5 degrees or so of what its marked, its junk.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  6. #26
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    Well I finally got my hands on some thermocure and that stuff WORKS, I was able to run 70 down the highway for 15 miles and not overheat, and when I got to work I could hold my hand on the radiator. Thanks for the suggestion Kodachrome Wolf!

  7. #27
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    https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZAifHFjs5Rd7faau7




    What was in it before the flush

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  9. #29
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    and this is why running straight water even in places that dont freeze is a terrible idea. Can run leaner than 50/50 and get a bit extra cooling capacity but the antifreeze is also a corrosion inhibitor and water pump seal lube. pure water is technically a better heat transfer fluid but that goes right in the toilet when the block rusts and plugs the cooling system up.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    and this is why running straight water even in places that dont freeze is a terrible idea. Can run leaner than 50/50 and get a bit extra cooling capacity but the antifreeze is also a corrosion inhibitor and water pump seal lube. pure water is technically a better heat transfer fluid but that goes right in the toilet when the block rusts and plugs the cooling system up.

    Gotta love previous owners

  11. #31
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 91merc View Post
    Well I finally got my hands on some thermocure and that stuff WORKS, I was able to run 70 down the highway for 15 miles and not overheat, and when I got to work I could hold my hand on the radiator. Thanks for the suggestion Kodachrome Wolf!
    Hell yeah!

    I like stuff that actually works, simply because I hate having to constantly having to deal with a repeat issue. Just keep an eye on the coolant condition/color shift over a few days. In the car I treated, the coolant shifted from green to black. After rinsing everything well a few times, it finally stayed the proper color.

    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
    -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (230K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  12. #32
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    I have since developed a timing cover gasket leak


    Should've replaced it when I did the water pump 1k ago

  13. #33
    Donating Member massacre's Avatar
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    What a difference in that coolant! Wow
    ..

  14. #34
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 91merc View Post
    I have since developed a timing cover gasket leak


    Should've replaced it when I did the water pump 1k ago
    Switch to Evan's coolant. It's a process but I'd wager it won't leak again after that and you won't blow out any more heater cores.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  15. #35
    Still Wrenchin'! friskyfrankie's Avatar
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    Have seen too many stories of much higher engine temps with Evans. To be safe (and save a lot of money) I'll stick to conventional coolant and flush on a timely basis. Probably works for some folks but I'l pass!

    P.S. I am allowing for using the product correctly and not leaving more than say 3% water in the system.
    What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
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  16. #36
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    I can only report my experience with Evans. The temp runs about 1/2 the width of the pointer higher on the Marauder. Can just barely discern it. It has never gotten any higher than that. I like the really low operating pressure. Evans has checked the coolant for condition every few years for me and so far so good.

    if I had realized I was going to keep the TC as long as I have I would have converted that as well.

    Evans is only worth it imnsho if you plan on keeping the car or it is a special collectable that has a sealed system. Open systems are not ideal for Evans because it is hygroscopic though I have no idea how long it would take to absorb enough water to require replacement or simmering to remove it.
    Last edited by jaywish; 09-13-2022 at 01:41 PM.
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  17. #37
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    I like the idea of low operating pressure also. Don't like that it is hygroscopic, didn't know that..
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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