So my fuel tank leaked all over the place while in storage, so i had to deal with that, and that involved me draining the tank and removing it from the car (since i dont want to deal with it in the spring) I was wondering if there are any tips you guys could give me for re-assembly, I currently have a spectre premium f3 tank ordered, any help would be appreciated, thanks
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Longer studs, or unscrew the existing ones as far as you can to make your life easier. Replace the seal at the fill neck, consider a new boot up at the fill door end too. New O-rings under the fuel pump and sending unit plates, and if either of those are questionable, change it while its already out. Flush out the evap vent thing that sits at the top too. It gets gummed up with old fuel and then you get a fuel smell and the tank hissing at you when removing the cap.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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I have always put a thin piece of rubber strap between the gas tank straps and the tank. It prevents sand, dirt from getting between those areas and putting a pinhole leak in the new tank. When I lived in the Ca. desert, that was a problem with the sand. In the rust belt, salt or the salt brine would be a problem. Just a suggestion.
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Internal rust and rot is common with our Crown Vics. Check the filler neck carefully and make sure it's not rusted through as well (fuel pressure issues could result from a leaky filler neck). Take gadget73's advise! Also don't trust that old filler neck doughnut. Good luck and wear safety goggles when working.
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It must be the time of year for tanks. I just had to put one in the Squire. Had a friend's lift open for the day, so I used it and his help.
The Spectra was sold out, so I ordered the Liland Global IF19 at $95.79 + the ride minus 5% from RockAuto.
Absolute +1 on longer studs - not sure what of each dimension changed but the factory studs do not work. My filler neck donut was fine; couldn't find one local anyway so I reused it. The lock ring provided with the Liland Global tank was a tight fit, but did seal tightly with the provided O-ring gasket.
'91 LTD Country Squire LX | '82 Cougar GS wagon |'03 Marauder | ' 18 Flex Limited EB
formerly: '02 MGM, '04 MGM, '04 MGM v2.0, '04 MM, '07 P71 w/5-speed, '03 SAP P71, '04 CVLX (now in pantera77's stable), '10 P7B
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Originally posted by a_d_a_m View PostIt must be the time of year for tanks.
Absolute +1 on longer studs - not sure what of each dimension changed but the factory studs do not work.
The factory studs were longer at the factory, the nut was put on then the studs were broke off at pre-scored spots leaving the studs short. At least that's the explanation I've heard a few times.Vic
~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"
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something metric I'm sure. M10 or M12 most likely. Nut size would mostly tell you. M10 usually uses a 17mm socket , M12 is 19mm.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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