ALLDATA, for my '98 MGM GS Key Lock Cylinder Replacement?

[_Hacksaw]

Car lovers and tech savvy forums members;

I have been working, researching and struggling since the Memorial day weekend theft attempt on my 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis GS here and thus my missing key lock ignition parts. Briefly I have all of the replacement parts ready to install here, however replacing the retainer, the metal bar with tab on it ( F2DZ-3C610-A ) and it's neighbor, the green plastic bearing ( F2DZ-3E700-A ) has me totally bewildered and vexed. While I have a full replacement switch from Motorcraft all keyed and ready to install, nothing I do or have attempted, works and I suspect this is the case for anyone who tries this w/o clear step by step instructions, or deep experience with this column key lock assembly and it's simple internal parts. Does *anyone* have the ALLDATA or Factory Service Manual instructions for my car or others close to it for this ignition key lock assembly and its related parts? I truly need some help with this as I just want to insert it slowly and "properly" and get my car to run again.

Let me know if you have the detailed instructions for removal and better yet 'installation' of this entire assembly e.g. the gear, the retainer, and the switch etc. I suspect that ALLDATA or the FSM might be just the place to find this and I have neither.

Sincerely;

_Hasksaw

[miamibob]

I have a '95 GM but if you have a PATS (system) these parts "may" be different. I would STRONGLY suggest getting a Factory Repair Manual (probably on EBAY) if not for this repair but for future ones.

[sly]

I suspect it will be the same as a 2000... I'll try to remember to take a look at mine later and see if it shows how the hell to replace that stuff. I severely doubt it since the actual shop manuals suck for the digital versions... the EVTMs are generally great though.

[_Hacksaw]

I suspect it will be the same as a 2000... I'll try to remember to take a look at mine later and see if it shows how the hell to replace that stuff. I severely doubt it since the actual shop manuals suck for the digital versions... the EVTMs are generally great though.

Sly;

This would be *deeply* appreciated! I tried *everything* am am great with very difficult puzzles and problems. This simple set up eludes my best attempts so far. First comes the gear ( what is its "exact" position and setting or orientation ) then the other two parts that eventually hold it in place. Then the f'ing switch, which only has "one position" that it can go in with as per the geometry of the switch and the tumblers and this one retainer pin etc. Everything needs to align up in "one" position or so it's telling me and nothing will allow me to do this so far. There has to be some method to this madness? Even a photograph or two will help me if it's essentially the same car. I have never ever run up against a problem that I could not solve or resolve. As you mention the the shop manuals may very well be useless in this matter. I am fully stopped here as well as patient and asking for help. So back to starting and stopping this car with a screw driver and transponder key until I can resolve this.


Sincerely;

_Hacksaw

[sly]

Here's what I have. Looks to be what you need.

[_Hacksaw]

Sly;

This is very good hearted of you, to copy and post this. I am reading and then re-reading this and attempting to make some sense of it all. Let me trying asking some questions as this might help before I go out and break my brain on this problem yet again for the next 3 hours plus, all over again, as I have that cold creepy feeling inside all over again as per these nearly cryptic instructions, but let me not go that far. So the questions now.

#1. What year car is this from or for?

#2. From just reading this yourself, is it your understanding that any 'ignition switch' key stem will, when this is all done as per these instructions, 'fit easily down and through the metal slotted bearing' to mate with the lock gear at the very bottom?

I ask these questions as per my experience and understanding of spending hours trying to do just that. That is to say, align *all* pieces, especially the gear and lock bearing ( which are slotted for the key switch stem ) into the *same* exact position, so one can then 'easily' slide this new switch into place. When I read 1 o'clock and then 3 o'clock and the rotate clockwise etc. I am lost and have no idea of what 'they' are talking about. I say this as......there is only "one" position ( 1 ) at the twelve o'clock position that will allow the switch to simply 'go into' this assembly. If it cannot get past the column lock housing bearing hole, one can go not further. So my life long experience is telling me *everything* must be at the same position and *all* keyholes must align or one is not going anywhere.

Maybe I am 'overthinking' this and yet no matter what I have done or tried......I cannot get this switch in. Let me know also if I am making any 'sense' with my description of these parts or if my logic is wrong in some way?

Sincerely;

_Hacksaw

p.s. Thanks to miamibob: Yes I do need to purchase the FSM for this car and just pray, it's not as vague and poorly written. I have an 85 Dodge Diplomat / Grand Fury FSM here that anyone can have at no cost.

[sly]

#1 this is from a 2000 CV book.

#2 orientation is everything... you may need a skinny enough deep socket to help press the things into position. As for the positioning of 1 and 3 o'clock, that's the bearing positioning. The tab in the center should be at 1 o'clock while the pin on the side (pointing into the hole you're about to press it into) should be at 3 o'clock. I'm not sure what the rotate it counter clockwise means. Maybe once it's pushed down, rotate it to clock it in maybe? And you'll need to grease it up before dropping it in. I'm thinking some white lithium grease should work like a champ.

I do know the ignition switch needs to be in the run position to slot the lock cylinder in, so I would start this whole mess with the key on engine off position.

[_Hacksaw]

Sly;

My *deepest* thanks and appreciation. I just returned inside here after getting this installed 'properly' on the 'second' attempt w/o having to drive to the local dealership and snivel vs. having them "charge" me hundreds of thousands of dollars to do what I just accomplished.

Briefly, your follow up post to my questions gave me a 'clue' as to just how this retainer might very well 'rotate' once inside the ignition key lock housing....and...to my disbelief...and after studying it under a very bright Maglite, it does! What they do *Not* tell you about in the very tepid service description of this assembly is that there is a channel on the deep insides ( top and bottom ) of this housing that 'allows' for this retainer bar to do just that when put in properly i.e. *rotate*. When I read that 'orientation was key' I wondered about just this.

So I took everything out to the MGM and sat there and calmly studied everything and it was then that I saw those channels at the base of the housing ( not easy! ). So here is what occurred. On my very first attempt I got the switch in just as this process, however while everything worked....it woulds not start. It also would not give me back my key. Not cool I theorised that I was *one* gear sprocket off of aligning this main gear and removed everything and set it one step backwards and then very carefully put it back together as per the instructions. BINGO! My Mercury then started right up and all systems were go. Better yet when turned "off" this ignition key assembly will now allow me to remove my key from said ignition.

I am stunned and in a state of disbelief... It cannot be actually working??!!! Its been since Memorial Day weekend when it was broken into that my life has been controlled by this issue. I can also see that the thieves just used some king of tool ( usually a dent puller critter ) to just "rip" this key assembly out of the car reaaaaaaaaal fast in an attempt to start it and then steal it whole for cheap cash. Never again, e-v-e-r!

Jesus, what a protracted drama here and yet in full honesty, many 'dealerships' could *not* do this work or even attempt it, and it would have cost thousands as the column would have had to be replaced right? Not so. One just has to be patient and work such difficult problems across time. Still, this is not for beginners or the faint of heart. It *can* be "taught" however and it's really not that difficult at all. Starting with a great clear and well written service manual might help?!! I am going to go silent here and shower and celebrate quietly.

I'll be back, hopefully not too soon....as I have to replace the "door cylinder" that they drilled into to gain access, but........I have the cars "key code" now from the locksmith when he read my original key that I brought to the key shop here when he set up my key lock cylinder to match my new key cylinder with, so maybe there is a way to do this with any replacement door lock cylinder.


Sincerely and with gratitude;

_Hacksaw | 5:15 pm. Pacific time
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"Life is the strangest teacher...." -- Mikhail Gorbachev

[Mainemantom]

Good Job !

[sly]

w00t!