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    #16
    It's going somewhere, if it's not on the ground and not in the engine, its coming out of a hose, or your heatercore.

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      #17
      have you bled the cooling system? could be cavitation.

      as for the noise, might need timing chain tensioners/guides.
      Last edited by rick99601; 02-08-2011, 05:58 AM.
      1988 MGM GS - Preferred Equipment Package 172A; InstaClear

      1980 Lincoln Continental Coupe
      1994 MGM GS Montigua
      2005 F150 Lariat Scab 4x4 3.73 LS
      2002 Mustang GT Coupe

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        #18
        hose under neath intake manifold maybe
        89 townie, mild exhuast up grades, soon to have loud ass stereo....

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          #19
          Originally posted by zoomie View Post
          hose under neath intake manifold maybe
          id take a flashlight and look for coolant in the valley to check this.
          1988 MGM GS - Preferred Equipment Package 172A; InstaClear

          1980 Lincoln Continental Coupe
          1994 MGM GS Montigua
          2005 F150 Lariat Scab 4x4 3.73 LS
          2002 Mustang GT Coupe

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            #20
            What's the easiest way to remove the fan clutch?? I already removed the fan shroud and the belt and the water pump pulley bolts

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              #21
              Originally posted by LTDMike View Post
              What's the easiest way to remove the fan clutch?? I already removed the fan shroud and the belt and the water pump pulley bolts
              need to rent to tool..
              1988 MGM GS - Preferred Equipment Package 172A; InstaClear

              1980 Lincoln Continental Coupe
              1994 MGM GS Montigua
              2005 F150 Lariat Scab 4x4 3.73 LS
              2002 Mustang GT Coupe

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                #22
                I got the tool the 36mm wrench

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                  #23
                  That's left handed thread on the fan clutch I believe.
                  Last edited by 86VickyLX; 02-11-2011, 10:01 PM.

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                    #24
                    use a fan clutch removal tool if the clutch threads onto the front of the water pump. Its a big goofy looking wrench that hooks into an air chisel.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                      #25
                      The autozone fan clutch tools suck ass !! I used the pulley holder then gave the clutch a love tap with a chisel and it came right off

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                        #26
                        Did you check the fan clutch before you pulled it?

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                          #27
                          Yea the clutch is good,so I replaced the water pump and the car still over heats!! I'm getting fustrated!! I'm going to change the thermostat hopefully this solves my problem

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                            #28
                            Check your thermostat. Get a cooking thermometer, boil some water on the stove, and make sure that the thermostat is opening at the right temperature by putting it in the water on the stove. I have had them go bad so that they would never open, and I have had them start opening late. Better yet, just replace the damn thing since it's only $10. When you install it, make sure that the jiggler valve (if it has one) is oriented to the top of the opening.

                            What I'm thinking is happening is that, rather than you actually loosing coolant, it's just not all the way full to begin with and every time you fill the radiator, it's sucking the coolant into the block and emptying the radiator/and or recovery tank.

                            This vehicle has a pressurized recovery tank, rather than a conventional radiator cap and overflow tank, right? How I usually fill cooling systems is to start the engine with the pressure cap off, and start filling the recovery tank/radiator until it won't take anymore. What will happen every time is that it will suck a bunch of coolant out of the radiator/tank and into the block, and it will look like your coolant is disappearing. Keep pouring until it quits disappearing. Keep the radiator cap off until the thermostat opens (top radiator hose gets hot), and make sure your level is good. Cap it back up and you should be good to go.
                            Originally posted by gadget73
                            There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                            91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                            93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                            Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
                            Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
                            95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

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