It's going somewhere, if it's not on the ground and not in the engine, its coming out of a hose, or your heatercore.
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have you bled the cooling system? could be cavitation.
as for the noise, might need timing chain tensioners/guides.Last edited by rick99601; 02-08-2011, 05:58 AM.1988 MGM GS - Preferred Equipment Package 172A; InstaClear
1980 Lincoln Continental Coupe
1994 MGM GS Montigua
2005 F150 Lariat Scab 4x4 3.73 LS
2002 Mustang GT Coupe
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Originally posted by zoomie View Posthose under neath intake manifold maybe1988 MGM GS - Preferred Equipment Package 172A; InstaClear
1980 Lincoln Continental Coupe
1994 MGM GS Montigua
2005 F150 Lariat Scab 4x4 3.73 LS
2002 Mustang GT Coupe
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Originally posted by LTDMike View PostWhat's the easiest way to remove the fan clutch?? I already removed the fan shroud and the belt and the water pump pulley bolts1988 MGM GS - Preferred Equipment Package 172A; InstaClear
1980 Lincoln Continental Coupe
1994 MGM GS Montigua
2005 F150 Lariat Scab 4x4 3.73 LS
2002 Mustang GT Coupe
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use a fan clutch removal tool if the clutch threads onto the front of the water pump. Its a big goofy looking wrench that hooks into an air chisel.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Check your thermostat. Get a cooking thermometer, boil some water on the stove, and make sure that the thermostat is opening at the right temperature by putting it in the water on the stove. I have had them go bad so that they would never open, and I have had them start opening late. Better yet, just replace the damn thing since it's only $10. When you install it, make sure that the jiggler valve (if it has one) is oriented to the top of the opening.
What I'm thinking is happening is that, rather than you actually loosing coolant, it's just not all the way full to begin with and every time you fill the radiator, it's sucking the coolant into the block and emptying the radiator/and or recovery tank.
This vehicle has a pressurized recovery tank, rather than a conventional radiator cap and overflow tank, right? How I usually fill cooling systems is to start the engine with the pressure cap off, and start filling the recovery tank/radiator until it won't take anymore. What will happen every time is that it will suck a bunch of coolant out of the radiator/tank and into the block, and it will look like your coolant is disappearing. Keep pouring until it quits disappearing. Keep the radiator cap off until the thermostat opens (top radiator hose gets hot), and make sure your level is good. Cap it back up and you should be good to go.Originally posted by gadget73There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13
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