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    I have a confession to make...

    Hello everybody, my name is converted1 (group says "Hi, converted1), and I used to be a GM guy. It all started in high school because all my friends were doing it, you know, badmouthing Fords and whatnot. I was even up to THREE GMs at one point. Then came the bad times, the failure of my business, bankruptcy, and no job. The road to recovery came when my dad gave me his 83 CV Ltd that had been sitting up in his yard for over seven years. He said all I had to do was get a new battery, tires, and gas. I thought, yeah right, it's a Ford. Lo' and behold, it roared to life and has not stopped since. I feel alive again. Even though the interior is ruined because the rear windows don't roll up anymore than an inch from the top, the trans has a had time shifting out of first, and the doors no longer line up all the way when closed, the car is a tank. That was a year ago, and I have had so much newfound success in the Ltd, that I purchased an 02 GM LS for the wife. Life was great again, until...

    A few weeks ago some jerk kid tried to steal the Ltd. He broke the ignition tumbler, ripped open the steering column, but didn't know completely what he was doing because after all that damage, he couldn't get it started. Well, he then takes my change out of the cup holder (every bit of $.73 in nickles and pennies), my Bic Jel-Roller pens, and pops the hood to steal my battery. Taking into consideration the damage to the steering wheel, column, and ignition switch, I though the car was a lost cause. Once again, Dad said to get another battery, insert the key, and it would drive....

    Worked like a charm! so that has lead me here. I now can "do things to the car", as my wife put it, without the fuss from her.

    Now, I guess I should first repair the steering column. I would like to know if this is something I SHOULD do myself, or leave it to a professional. My skill level and experience so far has been in minor repairs and basic upkeep. I have a modest tool collection. What should I do first? I am in the process of reading all the stickys and stuff, just wanting an experienced opinion as to what in what order should be done.

    By the way, how to I determine what engine and trans and what not from the VIN? I have been checking with local junkyards and parts stores and look like a doofus because I don't know. Where can I get a Shop Manual, like Chilton's? I live in Central Alabama and the only ones in the stores around here are for imorts, trucks, and GMs. Not one for an 83 Ltd.

    #2
    Welcome to GMN!

    As for determining the engine and trans from the VIN, you don't really need the VIN for that. You have a 302 (5.0 L) V8 with an AOD transmission (4 speed automatic with overdrive). However, if you want to decode the VIN, go to http://www.motorcraft.com/catalog.do?goto=vin for that.

    2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
    1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
    But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8

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      #3
      First of all, welcome to GMN!


      I think a good option for the steering column is to get a used column from the junkyard, I think anything from 79-87 should fit well in your car. If you can't get the keys with it see if you can find a new tumbler and have a key made for it. I used the column from another car in my old zephyr, it was odd carrying three keys but worked just fine.
      -Matt
      1968 Fairlane 500 - 1998 Camaro Z/28

      Comment


        #4
        Welcome, and there's nothing wrong with GMs, just there new stuff is crap. Anyhoo, you can repair your column with a trip to the junk yard and some patience. It'll take an hour or so depending on the damage. Just make sure to disconnect the battery befor you start in on it. We'll help ya with anything along the way. Really fun cars. Enjoy the site!
        Chris - A 20th Century Man \m/ ^.^ \m/

        Comment


          #5
          Welcome to GMN!

          Definatly pick yourself up a Shop Manual for your Box,it will save you alot of money in the long run,it definatly has saved me alot.You can get the same one I have here: Link It is an excellent well written manual,and has helped me out many times.

          Comment


            #6
            Hey, always great to see more people getting interested in fullsize Fords. Your experience reminds me of my '79, which, after sitting behind a trucking company for 6 years, toted me around for 8 months on the original wheezing engine and slipping transmission before I did much of anything to it. After putting in a spare engine and rebuilt tranny, I've been driving it all over Michigan and Indiana with hardly any trouble.

            For '83, I'm pretty sure all 302 motors had gone to central fuel injection, while 351s kept using carburetors through 1991, so might be the quickest and easiest way to tell which engine you have. The AOD transmission is most easily recognized by the P-R-N-OD-D-1 shift indicator and the fact that it has a cable (for a total of 3) instead of a rigid kickdown rod on the side of the carb/TB. Plus, if you dive under the car, it has a trapezoidal transmission pan that says something like "Ford Metric Automatic Overdrive", while the C4, the most likely 3-speed auto, has a small rectangular pan and the dipstick tube screws into the pan.

            Good luck!
            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

            Comment


              #7
              welcome mang to gmn yeah the junk yard will have what you are looking for

              1989 mercury grand marquis gs / 2014 ford focus s daily driver
              302 lopo with ho upper/ aod with trans go shift kit
              k code 3:55 posi rear/big brake swap tow package car

              Comment


                #8
                Welcome to GMN.

                We have some GM fans here, myself included. I like GM and Ford equally, then Mopar.

                The u-wrench-it should have all the parts you're looking for, cuz there are tons of these cars and for some reason people think they're junk and belong in a yard.
                88 Town Car (wrecked, for sale)
                Walker OEM duals with muffler deletes

                Comment


                  #9
                  where u located mang? steering columns here in the u-pull-its are around 25 bucks

                  1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                  2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                  1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                  1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                  2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                  1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                  please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yay, more Alabama people!

                    Start here if you want some kind of manual. I know a lot of people don't like Haynes manuals, but they're better than nothing.

                    Finding a decent yard near you to pull parts from is the first step. I don't know how involved swapping a column is, I'm sure lots of folks here have done it and could help talk you through it.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by JumboFriendly

                      Start here if you want some kind of manual.

                      I have that same manual as well,it's a decent manual,but is not anywhere near as detailed and thorough as the Chilton manual.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thanks guys.

                        I live in Birmingham, Ala., by the way. On the topic of the steering wheel, are there any special tools that I need to remove it? I noticed some torx or star bits will be needed to remove the casing from the column. I did buy a good jack and a set of jack stands so if I need to get under the car, I can. It will probably be within the next few days that i'll have time to work on it. I want to take my old column off to learn how before I go the the local pull-a-part. The cheapest quote I've gotten to pull it for me is $50, not even the cost of the part itself. Is that relatively cheap or should I try to do it myself. I don't have alot of money, but I don't want to be too cheap that a $50 problem turns into a $200 solution. You guys have been a great help.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I just use a free-rental puller from AutoZone whenever I need to remove a steering wheel. I think it's the same one I use for press-fit harmonic balancers. Yeah, I think you'll need some of those tamper-resistant Torx bits with the hole in the middle to disassemble everything. I'm not sure you need them just to get the column out, but I'll leave that advice for the guys who have actually removed a steering column,
                          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            4 bolts actually attach the steering column to it's support brace. Can't say I've actually removed one from the car but it can't be that difficult. Unplug all the electrical stuff, unhook the rod down to the transmission, remove the bolt attaching the lower steering shaft to the column. Bolt for that is up under the brake booster. There is also a small cable and a plastic collar that works the shift indicator. Single screw un-clamps the plastic collar if its not already cracked. if its cracked, just unhook the end of the cable from the little arm that sticks off the side of the column, and pull the collar off. After thats all unhooked it ought to be a matter of just sliding it out.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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