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Even MORE car problems!!!!!

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    #1

    Even MORE car problems!!!!!

    So I got the car running good, the transmission shifts fine, all was well. About ten minutes ago, I get in and get ready to go to the store to put gas in GL so I can go to work tomorrow. I turn the key, and all it does is turn over. Does not start whatsoever. I had driven the car about an hour before, so it was still warm. WTF?

    I had this happen once before, at my cousins house. I was at his place for about 10 minutes, when I tried to start it, all it did was turn over. So, I pushed it home. The next day I went out, and GL started right up. I figured it was a coil thing. Since I put the points coil where the old EEC coil was, I figured the heat was doing something to it, so I relocated over to the drivers side wheel well.

    The carb is getting gas, I can see it spray into the throat when I push on the linkage.

    The coil is getting power, but I don't know if spark is getting to the plugs. What is the problem here? I bet if I go out tomorrow morning, it will start up. But, I don't want to take the chance of driving it to work, and get stuck halfway there. (I live about 15 miles from where I work.)

    Can anyone help me out here? It seems GL has something new wrong with him every day. I am getting a little tired of trying to fix all these fuckups.

    Thanks guys.

    Jon
    Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
    Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!
    Tags: None
    #2
    probably junk points and condensor........hard to find a decent set anymore.......had lots of crappy points and condensor sets not work right out of the box..........spend 60 bucks and get an ignitor setup

    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
    2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
    1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
    1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
    2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
    1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

    Comment

      #3
      might be moisture in the distributor cap......
      Save a seal, club a liberal.

      Comment

        #4
        Guy I knew had a 68 Fury that would do that sometimes. His fix was to spray a bunch of ether (starting fluid) into the distributor then start it. It worked, but I always waited for the day the distributor would explode from doing that.

        My take: ditch the points, go electronic. Probably the condensor is going and it shorts when hot. I'm told it isnt too hard to swap in a Duraspark dizzy from an early 80s truck.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment

          #5
          I considered the duraspark thing, but this dist is brand fucking new. If I get rid of it, thats another 60 bux I wasted for nothing. This all sucks dog asses. Why can't any fucking thing go right? I also discovered, that the engine will not rev above 3000 RPM, when it gets to that point, it starts to sputter and miss really bad. I am told this is also an ignition problem.

          I will tell you guys what though. I ain't gonna chicken out and sell this turkey, just because it has some rust or a water pump problem, I am going to keep at it, until GL is either fixed, or I drop dead from exhaustion.
          Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
          Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

          Comment

            #6
            Make sure the points are gapped properly. Usually .016" or a matchbook cover is about where they need to be. A dwell meter will confirm they are correct. I think around 30 degrees is where it needs to be.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment

              #7
              I would lose the points, seriously....from the moment they are installed, contact points are always in a state of degradation....

              Comment

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