Pulling the mercs engine *pics*

[Pirate]

yea i wanted to save more parts but i didn't have room and my dad was getting on my ass about the car being in the driveway for the past 3 months .....

.....So we unbolted everything, and instead scattered the car all over the garage....lol.

[packman]

i think he said it was t boned, i would of saved more parts off it tho

+1 That A/C condenser, the master cylinder looked operational, the power steering pump looked good, and the lines looked pretty good as well. Then again it sounds like your father wasn't going to compromise with having any part(s) of that car left over. My dad is grumbling about all of the engines that are left over from other projects that never left the ground as well. What do you have planned for your engine and what are you going to put it in? That sounds like a nice project!
Packman

[gabegt90]

nice I can't wait for scott to do my motor in the future

[interceptor1985]

Thats one thing I like about my family is when we scrap a car they EXPECT us to pull EVERY useable or sellable part off the car first.

[Tiggie]

Lots of land = parts cars stay at my house for a while. As least while they are mobile. Once they can't move under their own power, it's time to call the junk man.

Good luck with the engine build .

[torquelover]

I'd plug up the intake and exhaust ports and power wash that thing before tearing it down. It'll still need a hot tank, but it'll make teardown a lot less messy.

x2 on this. Looks like you're off to a good start with good momentum, unlike my 2 month rebuild. What do you have in store for the 302?

[Nick52284]

thanks for the replies guys! the power steering pump was already swapped from the crown vic because it was leaking, thats the first part i swapped over, the a/c stuff is useless since the compressor took a crap so i'm pretty sure theres a lot of debris floating in the lines/condensor, as for the brake system, sadly that stuff was almost brand new right down to the parking brake hardware but if i took the brake stuff off i woulnd't be able to roll the car i would have swapped it or saved it but the vic's brakes were new as well!

as for the engine...... a buddy at work built a 94 5.0 mustang up pretty good so he is gonna help me put some power in this engine. my current list looks something like:

1) get the block tested, cleaned, new freeze plugs (threaded), honed
2)obviously new bearings everywhere
3)AFR heads something like 63ccm chambers
4)bbk ssi upper and lower intake with 75mm throttle body and billet aluminum
fuel rails
5)all forged internals, pistons, crank, rods, pins etc..etc.. all put together with
arp hardware
6) lightweight flywheel
7) mild cam ( i want that slight lopey idle)
8) new high volume oil pump
9) new high flow fuel pump
10) 2 things that go pshhhhTSS yes twin turbo with a remote mount
setup since theres tons of room under the rear of the car
11) msd adjustable electronic ignition system (no more distributor)
12) adjustable FPR
13) i'm gonna need a very custom ecm to make all this work......

i've priced this all out to be around 4,500 i'll be doing most of the work myself with the help of a few buddies so that will save on labor a lot. i'm hoping to be around 500hp at the wheels running 12 psi boost with the option to crank the boost up to 20psi for around 550-600hp. this all seems reasonable to me. i've got plenty of resources now that i work in the technician field its gonna take at least 2 years i would think but 1 part at a time should be budget friendly!


edit: i know most of you will just think i'm a young kid with a crazy dream but this is no dream. its a goal to have the entire car done by 2009 one step at a time is all it takes being that *most of the parts for this build are fairly in-expensive if i get them one at a time! so please don't start bashing right away, i'll get pictures of everything that i can from cleanup to teardown to each part i get in the mail or buy, and pics of assembly!

Nick.

[Nick52284]

NEW PICS

well mangs, i started to take some parts off the engine, to my suprise the engine was very very clean for having over 170k miles on it. i'll let the pics do the justice...

under the valve covers are very clean for the mileage! oh and i found out why it leaked oil.... i was able to turn the valve cover bolts without using a ratchet... they were all loose!?!?






even under the LIM is pretty damn clean!





note the coolant channels. looks like i had a very slight LIM gasket leak. but the oil never came out milky so i guess its cool.



water pump is off, , gotta get the pully's off, the timing cover, and the oil pan so i can get down to taking the internals out!











what do you guys think for the engine being all original and having 170k on it? all the pics are right after took the parts off, i didn't do any cleaning at all!

Nick

[gadget73]

Looks like the oil was changed in it regularly, or it leaked enough to keep fresh all the time lol. Not too surprising the valve cover bolts were loose. The cork compresses after a while and it gets loose.

[Nick52284]

update! got the engine all apart, its getting dropped off at a machine shop this week for an acid bath, honing, new freezout plugs and cam bearings! i'll post pics tonight of the engine all torn apart and some pics of a few of the bearings i have questions about!

the cam looked pretty damn good, all the lobes seemed to be in good shape, not that i'm using that cam but i think the engine was in pretty damn good shape for the mileage!

also what does it mean when a few of the bearings have some wear marks on the edges, a couple of the crankshaft bearings were worn where they meet with the caps. i'm guessing thats normal for an engine with high mileage? the engine never knocked or made irregular noises.

Nick

[gadget73]

Just means the motor was getting worn, nothing really major to worry about. I would suggest having the crank polished and checked to make sure its in spec as well, assuming you're using it that is.

[DuceAnAHalf]

thanks for the replies guys! the power steering pump was already swapped from the crown vic because it was leaking, thats the first part i swapped over, the a/c stuff is useless since the compressor took a crap so i'm pretty sure theres a lot of debris floating in the lines/condensor, as for the brake system, sadly that stuff was almost brand new right down to the parking brake hardware but if i took the brake stuff off i woulnd't be able to roll the car i would have swapped it or saved it but the vic's brakes were new as well!

as for the engine...... a buddy at work built a 94 5.0 mustang up pretty good so he is gonna help me put some power in this engine. my current list looks something like:

1) get the block tested, cleaned, new freeze plugs (threaded), honed
2)obviously new bearings everywhere
3)AFR heads something like 63ccm chambers
4)bbk ssi upper and lower intake with 75mm throttle body and billet aluminum
fuel rails
5)all forged internals, pistons, crank, rods, pins etc..etc.. all put together with
arp hardware
6) lightweight flywheel
7) mild cam ( i want that slight lopey idle)
8) new high volume oil pump
9) new high flow fuel pump
10) 2 things that go pshhhhTSS yes twin turbo with a remote mount
setup since theres tons of room under the rear of the car
11) msd adjustable electronic ignition system (no more distributor)
12) adjustable FPR
13) i'm gonna need a very custom ecm to make all this work......

i've priced this all out to be around 4,500 i'll be doing most of the work myself with the help of a few buddies so that will save on labor a lot. i'm hoping to be around 500hp at the wheels running 12 psi boost with the option to crank the boost up to 20psi for around 550-600hp. this all seems reasonable to me. i've got plenty of resources now that i work in the technician field its gonna take at least 2 years i would think but 1 part at a time should be budget friendly!


edit: i know most of you will just think i'm a young kid with a crazy dream but this is no dream. its a goal to have the entire car done by 2009 one step at a time is all it takes being that *most of the parts for this build are fairly in-expensive if i get them one at a time! so please don't start bashing right away, i'll get pictures of everything that i can from cleanup to teardown to each part i get in the mail or buy, and pics of assembly!

Nick.

$1500 for the heads
$1000 for the rotating assembly
$2500 for the turbos, that assuming you can get the turbos cheap
$500 for a ignition
$580 for the intake
then you are gonna need a throttle body, mass air meter and the aformentioned ECM, a stand alone like Mega squirt would be your best bet, i think those start at around $200

Unless you are using used parts, getting wholesale prices or getting sponsored i dont see how you are gonna get all that for $4,500. Even if you do with that power level, add another $2000 for a Dart block after you split that factory block into two 2.5L 4 cyl. motors.

also you are gonna need a transmission to sit behind that motor, if you go C4 add another $1200, if you want an AOD add $1800-$2000. If you are going with a manual add about $1500-$3000 depending on what tranny you go with.

also automatics dont use a flywheel, we use a lightweight flexplate, a lightweight flywheel for a manual is gonna run you an additional $400-$500, and a good clutch is another $500


Are you gonna tap the block for the threaded freeze plugs yourself?

Good luck in this, and take it from me, do it right the first time, it sucks having to redo stuff later on.

[Nick52284]

yea some of the parts are used, like the forged internals, my buddy built an engine for his mustang but decided he wanted to go a different route so the forged crank, pistons rods, etc.. are used but barely, getting that whole assembly for 450.00, the heads are also used from the same guy, getting those for 500, so yea after this is all said and done it should only be around 4500, the transmission is getting rebuilt at my school so it should hold up. trust me everything will be checked and re-checked, the LAST thing i want is for the engine to blow up. i'll find out this week if the block is worth using for forced induction, if not i'll have to save up and get a new block or a used one that is worthy of forced induction. i'm not a dreamer, i'm a do-er!

Nick

[DuceAnAHalf]

thats a good deal on those used parts.

The problem with factory 302 blocks is that after 450HP they are time bombs, they could last 5 minutes, or they could last 100,000 miles. the 351W are stronger, they are good to around 650 for the newer blocks to around 700 for the 69-71

[Nick52284]

they're only good for up to 450 hp? i heard from somewhere that the stock lower end is good for up to 600 hp? i'm not saying your wrong by any means, i'm just wondering now since i'm hearing 2 different hp ratings.

Nick