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Realistic cost expectations for 351W

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    #16
    Wow, that's an unusual, but COOL sounding setup!
    1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
    Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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      #17
      I would say....ehhh.....$2000-$6000....around there
      -2004 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor - Daily Driver - 17" Bullitt's, 235/55/17 Goodyear Eagles, Ex-NH State Police, best 1/4 mile time; 15.3 @ 90 mph
      -1987 Crown Victoria 2-Door - Project - 90k miles, Summit chambered muffler, Sunpro gauges, parked since 2010, fate tbd

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        #18
        Originally posted by Nathan in MN View Post
        Are the 400 Ford rods the "long rod" concept that caused a big war here some time ago?

        Yessirree, Bob, the very same connecting rod saga. I think I was involved in it. Works great for limited induction setups, not so great with giant heads.

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          #19
          I assume that's why you specified the AFR 165s rather than 185s or something larger like that? And, may I ask what the rod length has to do with induction area?

          And I'm pretty sure you were involved in it...you were one of the two major parties! lol

          2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
          1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
          But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8

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            #20
            Mine blew my budget right out the window, I'm almost over 3 grand in the motor. I did get some nasty deals on machine work and the heads tho. So all told mine should be closer to 5 grand but I shop around pretty well. Mine isnt gonna be very street oriented tho. It shouldnt be real bad but I want a nasty motor for the strip. I also built my car for what I'm gonna be doing down the road.

            2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
            My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

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              #21
              Concerning rod length: You don't need as much cam or induction with the longer rods. It doesn't pull as much air into the motor due to the pistons staying at TDC...however, The piston hangs at top-dead-center longer, taking further advantage of the power stroke. In addition, less side-loading.

              As you install larger heads, whatever gains you might have had goes away.

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                #22
                5-10k start to finish, less with used/good deal parts...also depending on who builds it

                RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

                '80 Town Coupé
                '84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
                '16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4

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                  #23
                  Ok so people say between 2-10k. thats very interresting. I wonder how long that 10K 351w would last. shit for 10k it better be stroked and ready for some blow too. not to mention that SOB better last 10yrs too..

                  I have been doing some research on the 351w builds myself. primarly just browsing on ebay and yahoo and such. i know that for 10K i can get a turn key EFI 450+hp pump gas 351w delivered to my door without ever getting dirty.

                  it all depends on how involved you wanna be in ur build. not to mention what ur replacing with this 351w. if ur doing a 302-351 conversion, theres some little things u just cant get anywhere that may place some added unseen cost to ur budget. I assume for around 2500-4500 a decent 450hp carbed or efi 351w could be brought to life.

                  I honestly think that after reading some of the horror stories about engines and machine shops, I think I'll just have a complete re-freshened shortblock sent to the door. since they garentee thier work, and its built to factory spec ill be checkin tolorances.

                  just my
                  1987 MGM 126K 2" True Duel flowmaster 40's 3" tipped exhuast, Tinted 20% all way round, individual bank A/F guages, tach.

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                    #24
                    393 stroker shortblock......about 2 grand assembled
                    expect to pay at least a grand for a set of performance aftermarket heads
                    canton oil pan $250 me thinks
                    intake 200 bucks
                    carb 300-600 bucks
                    cam 75-400 bucks
                    lifters 50-100 bucks
                    3 row radiator and new hoses 225 bucks
                    motor mounts 50 bucks
                    msd 200 and up
                    plugs wires cap rotor 100 bucks
                    labor at least a grand

                    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                    2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                    1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                    1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                    2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                    1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by ButtSlappingPirate View Post
                      Concerning rod length: You don't need as much cam or induction with the longer rods. It doesn't pull as much air into the motor due to the pistons staying at TDC...however, The piston hangs at top-dead-center longer, taking further advantage of the power stroke. In addition, less side-loading.

                      As you install larger heads, whatever gains you might have had goes away.
                      Wouldn't that increase accelaration by increasing the rod length and keeping the stock stroke? Though I would imagine that you would have to get a shorter (in height from top of piston to piston skirt) piston to pull that off.

                      Packman

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by lincolnmania View Post
                        393 stroker shortblock......about 2 grand assembled
                        expect to pay at least a grand for a set of performance aftermarket heads
                        canton oil pan $250 me thinks
                        intake 200 bucks
                        carb 300-600 bucks
                        cam 75-400 bucks
                        lifters 50-100 bucks
                        3 row radiator and new hoses 225 bucks
                        motor mounts 50 bucks
                        msd 200 and up
                        plugs wires cap rotor 100 bucks
                        labor at least a grand
                        Don't forget headers and exhaust!!
                        1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
                        Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

                        Comment


                          #27
                          add another 600-1000 bucks then

                          1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                          2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                          1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                          1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                          2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                          1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                          please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by packman View Post
                            Wouldn't that increase accelaration by increasing the rod length and keeping the stock stroke? Though I would imagine that you would have to get a shorter (in height from top of piston to piston skirt) piston to pull that off.

                            Packman
                            Piston speed slows down, actually. Rings last longer, and due to less side loading, the piston lasts longer. Long-rod motors last longer than their short-rod counterparts, due to less stress on the rotating assembly. One customer of mine who built a long-rod 306 (he built the bottom end like I instructed, ignored my advice and went huge on the cam, intake and heads)...the engine ran good (wrong top end package, and an AOD with 3.08 gears), but the major note was that I have never driven a smoother 302. Yes, it was balanced, but it was like the engine was out of the car.
                            I can't remember what the piston speed of this combo is (3000fpm?), but from what I remember, some IHRA Por-Stock 814 CI engines were pushing somewhere around the 8000-9000 fpm (feet per minute) stage...

                            Yes, you have to get a piston with a shorter skirt. KB makes two, one for 69-71 351W's (9.480 deck height) and 72-up 351w's (9.503), and Wiseco also makes/made one that can be altered a bit for various compression ratios.
                            Last edited by Guest; 07-26-2007, 05:18 PM.

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