High then erratic idle, now stalling out.

[mrltd]

Have you pulled the EGR vavle off and checked that it isn't clogged? It's quite common to have a completely blocked EGR. My car did... What a mess!

[86VickyLX]

yeah could be blocked.

[86GmLsCoupe]

Have you pulled the EGR vavle off and checked that it isn't clogged? It's quite common to have a completely blocked EGR. My car did... What a mess!

The EGR valve is new, the old one was pretty weak and cruddy. I did try cleaning the ports on the spacer with Ford Carb & Tune-up cleaner and a toothbrush. The port didn't look clogged but it did have the normal buildup. Also I've been hoping all the new parts would help the little stumble &hesitation when I feather the pedal/start from a full stop but it seems to be there still.

[gadget73]

Vacuum leak in the connector between the control solenoids and the engine perhaps. If its leaking there, the valve won't open.

[86GmLsCoupe]

Thanks for the advice, I'll start looking and testing. The EGR gasket isn't that difficult to seat/seal correctly right? I just put it on, finger tightened, and then torqued to spec.

[gadget73]

nothing special involved, just have to be sure the valve and the spacer's surface is reasonably clean and free of old gasket chunks.

[86GmLsCoupe]

Okay, I did a really good job scraping and cleaning all of the old gasket off so that shouldn't be the issue. I scanned the car again today and I got code 21 (Engine Coolant Temp out of Range). I cleared the codes and disconnected the battery for 10 mins. I let it run again for a few and rescanned and got 33 (EGR Closed/ Erratic/ Insufficient Flow) and 21 back. The connections between EVR and EGR look fine and I didn't wanna mess with them to much. Would the fact that the engine was still cold bring up code 21? I already bought the ECT sensor when I picked up the other parts so should I just go ahead and replace it? (The code comes and goes) I heard they can be a pain to replace and I don't want to start any coolant leaks or any other problems. One other question I had was since I removed some smog stuff, I just plugged the pink vacuum line. Is there something else I need to do because I thought I read somewhere here that the EGR and Thermactor shared a vacuum feed (red and green lines)? I just want the car to run without any codes besides 94 and 44. :smirk: Thanks again.

[gadget73]

The ECT sensor has a LOT to do with the cold start/warm run behavior. Its actually #3 in the "chain of command" so to speak for the sensors. I'd replace it since you've got one already. If it produces that code again, start checking the voltage on the ect. Just a warning though, the motor must be warmed up for it to not produce that code. If you self-test it when cold, it will pretty much always throw that if the coolant temp is below like 120 degrees or something. They are not hard to replace, just use a properly sized socket and see if you can hold the boss it threads into. I want to say its got a hex head so you can put a wrench on there but don't quote me. New sensor should come with sealant on the threads already, but if it didn't, standard plumber's thread sealer (pipe dope) works fine.


The vacuum source (pink or red) is shared with the thermactor stuff. Just as long as the egr regulator has vacuum, its fine. There's a T right there at the egr regulator and the line goes down to the thermactor stuff. Plug it there at the one-way check valve and it ought to work. Unplug the connector at the egr regulator itself to verify that it sucks. The green is the connection from the regulator to the valve itself.

Actually if you want, you can shitcan all that plastic nonsense and replace it with 2 rubber lines. Mine was all bad, and thats what I did. Just take note of which hose goes to what spot. I color coded mine with zip ties (green and red) to make it easier to ID.

[86GmLsCoupe]

Thanks a lot for all the info. I have the part handy and its the Motorcraft one with sealant on it so I shouldn't have to worry about using anything else. I'm going to try and get some shots of the vacuum lines I was telling you about so you can get a better idea of what I did. I do know I plugged up the end of the pink (or beige/tan, hard to tell) line that went to the diverter valve (i guess thats what its called) or the pump itself. I'll probably look into doing what you suggested because it'll clean it up and I think be more reliable. I still have the smog pump on there (it's gutted and filled with motor oil) but I wanna look into removing that and just getting the smaller belt. Thanks for advice.

[88grandmarq]

Okay, I did a really good job scraping and cleaning all of the old gasket off so that shouldn't be the issue. I scanned the car again today and I got code 21 (Engine Coolant Temp out of Range). I cleared the codes and disconnected the battery for 10 mins. I let it run again for a few and rescanned and got 33 (EGR Closed/ Erratic/ Insufficient Flow) and 21 back. The connections between EVR and EGR look fine and I didn't wanna mess with them to much. Would the fact that the engine was still cold bring up code 21? I already bought the ECT sensor when I picked up the other parts so should I just go ahead and replace it? (The code comes and goes) I heard they can be a pain to replace and I don't want to start any coolant leaks or any other problems. One other question I had was since I removed some smog stuff, I just plugged the pink vacuum line. Is there something else I need to do because I thought I read somewhere here that the EGR and Thermactor shared a vacuum feed (red and green lines)? I just want the car to run without any codes besides 94 and 44. :smirk: Thanks again.

Code 21 will show up if you check codes and the engine is NOT at normal operating temp. Service manual says to run the engine at 2K RPM for 2 minutes to obtain proper engine temp.

Code 33 is usually caused by a broken vaccum supply line or a faulty EVR solenoid. check the vaccum harness on the passenger side of the engine bay then replace the EVR solenoid.

[86VickyLX]

Code 21 will show up if you check codes and the engine is NOT at normal operating temp. Service manual says to run the engine at 2K RPM for 2 minutes to obtain proper engine temp.

Oh. This answers a question that has been confusing me ever since last year. Thanks indirectly for answering this question.