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    What's this for?

    There is a pump of some sort that is located on the passenger side fender under the hood. It looks as if it has a total of 3 hoses running from it. It connects to the intake and then underneath the engine somewhere. What is this thing for? It's always running when the car is.



    1981 Ford LTD Crown Vic (FOR SALE!)
    1979 Pontiac Firebird

    #2
    a picture would help

    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
    2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
    1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
    1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
    2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
    1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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      #3
      Old Blue, are you sure it's actually a pump, and not just the diverter valve mess for the smog stuff?

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        #4
        Originally posted by lincolnmania View Post
        a picture would help
        Yeah, I know it would. I don't have my digi camera with me. Friends borrowed it for their trip to Florida.



        1981 Ford LTD Crown Vic (FOR SALE!)
        1979 Pontiac Firebird

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          #5
          Originally posted by MeLikeyStripperChicks View Post
          Old Blue, are you sure it's actually a pump, and not just the diverter valve mess for the smog stuff?
          No, I'm not sure. It may be a diverter. It is just running all the time. I'm trying to figure out if I need the thing or not.



          1981 Ford LTD Crown Vic (FOR SALE!)
          1979 Pontiac Firebird

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            #6
            sorry i'm not familiar with the underhood of an 81.....could it be the egr soleniod clicking? do the 81's even have that?

            1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
            2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
            1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
            1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
            2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
            1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

            please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

            Comment


              #7
              Well if it's the diverter valve wht you'll be hearing is the hissing of the air going through it along with some vibration sounds from the spring inside it - the actual air pump is under the A/C compressor on the passenger side of the engine, it works all the time (mechanically driven with the A/C belt off the crank pulley) and the diverter valve is the outlet for the air it moves. So yeah, what sounds do you hear?

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                #8
                It's the diverter then. That's exactly what I'm hearing. So, I don't need that then?



                1981 Ford LTD Crown Vic (FOR SALE!)
                1979 Pontiac Firebird

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                  #9
                  generally no, it does nothing for the drivability of the car, however it may be necessary for passing visual emissions if you have to deal with that kinda bull. If no emissions you can ditch the whole A.I.R system - pump, diverter valves, hoses, all that should be able to go, just make sure the vacuum lines that operate the diverter valves are properly removed or capped off. I know how to do it on a SEFI 5.0 but yers ain't one, so unfortunately I can't give you tips on what exactly to remove and how.

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                    #10
                    Here's about the only pic I have of my engine compartment (not much to see...). It's all smog junk over there. There's the gigantic air diverter valve over there, and air comes out of that. That's probably what you are referring to. Later cars had it mounted down lower after the smog pump, and a more compact setup.

                    1990 Country Squire - under restoration
                    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater

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                      #11
                      Desmogging a carbed car is incredibly easy--much simpler than an SEFI car. Basically just rip all the crap out and cap off the vacuum lines. Only hard(ish) part is plugging the holes on the backs of the heads, and even that ain't bad. Heck, I didn't even do that until I swapped the heads out. Just left the pipe in there and took the rubber hose coming off of it, bent it over and tied it off so it wouldn't leak. Drove it that way for the better part of a year lol

                      2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
                      1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
                      But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by Nathan in MN View Post
                        Heck, I didn't even do that until I swapped the heads out. Just left the pipe in there and took the rubber hose coming off of it, bent it over and tied it off so it wouldn't leak. Drove it that way for the better part of a year lol
                        Or you could have went to a parts store and spent like $2-3 for a set oh coolant port rubber caps and used the 5/8 one on the one-way valve if it was leaking.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by MeLikeyStripperChicks View Post
                          Or you could have went to a parts store and spent like $2-3 for a set oh coolant port rubber caps and used the 5/8 one on the one-way valve if it was leaking.
                          Or since he's all skilled with metal and stuff, he could have just brazed or welded the tube shut! :p
                          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                            #14
                            You know, I've noticed that usually when the valve leaks the tube behind it is also rusted out, and rusted thin-wall tubing don't make for nice welds - hell, it's easy enough to burn through nice sheetmetal, I'd imagine welding the tube shut in such a tight space would be a major PITA. I actually took mine off completely and plugged the holes in the heads with 5/8" bolts, tried using 1"-long ones but they still stick oy some, I'm gonna replace them with 1/2"-long ones someday but getting to them ain't easy at all.

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                              #15
                              I'm betting he's looking at the canp valve. Pre-1986 they were vacuum actuated. one small plastic cappilary line, and 2 rubber hoses. One to the intake, one to the box under the battery.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
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                              Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

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