Can any one tell me of a decent priced "good" Torq Wrench? I looked on ebay and saw some but eh. I dont know what is what... Only tool names i know are worth a toot are. Craftsman. Snap On And MAC....
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I have two, a $45 no-name 3/8" from Ace Hardware and a $20 Pittsburgh 1/2" from Harbor Freight (aka Super China Tool Outlet). Craftsman and similar brands should be a decent choice for a mid-priced ($100-$150) new tool, not overlooking the possibility of having an old-style fixed-head torque wrench (cheaper) instead of a modern click style. Or maybe you can get a good deal on a Snap-On or something and see if you can have it recalibrated by your local dealer to make sure it's accurate. My machinist swears by his Snap-On torque wrench - he was telling me one day how he'd had it for quite a number of years and clicked it some thousands of times reconditioning rods at his previous job in a production shop, and it still clicked within a couple lb-ft of a brand-new one.
Or if you really want to spend big bucks (about $280), get one of those new Snap-On digitals that beep and vibrate when you reach the specified torque and then momentarily display the actual torque applied to the nearest 0.1 lb-ft.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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Originally posted by capridrifter View Postsears over here had one for $100 bucks...check your local sears and see if they have any on sale....I like the dial in wrenches best.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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1987cp uhh.. On the 40 doller one.. May i ask if you have used it more then say.... 20 times? ( i hear the no namers can break on the first bolt.? )
And what is the name of it..
Ugha,. i hate to speend 100 bucks on one tool i might use 50 times.. in the life of this car.. A part... Sure..n/p a tool...>_<People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.
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Originally posted by darkknight View Post1987cp uhh.. On the 40 doller one.. May i ask if you have used it more then say.... 20 times? ( i hear the no namers can break on the first bolt.? )
And what is the name of it..
Ugha,. i hate to speend 100 bucks on one tool i might use 50 times.. in the life of this car.. A part... Sure..n/p a tool...>_<
You know, I really don't know what the brand name is. There's no name engraved on it or cast into the case, just a dinky sticker with some illegible script initials that I think is gone now. I have used both this one and the $20 Pittsburgh several times, with no problems that I can tell. I've seen more expensive ones (Husky brand from Home Depot) break when abused on a daily basis, but when I mentioned about my El Cheapos to a guy there, he pointed out that I probably at least pretend to take care of the poor things. Might be interesting to check the calibration, though ...2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
Or if you really want to spend big bucks (about $280), get one of those new Snap-On digitals that beep and vibrate when you reach the specified torque and then momentarily display the actual torque applied to the nearest 0.1 lb-ft.
Originally posted by 1987cp View PostThey do have some decent sales from time to time. You ever used the ones that actually have little numbers displayed in a box instead of just matching up micrometer-style hash marks on the handle?
As for timing chains, the Cloyes Tru-Roller has always been good to me.
You need to buy/borrow/rent some tools before you begin this adventure. Here's onethat's cheap and easy to use, much better than banging sparkplugs on a table. I also appreciated the use of a friend's tap & die set for cleaning up nuts/bolts/bores when I rebuilt my 351.
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Yes, taps and dies FTW. Even my $25 set from Harbor Freight has done me a heckuva lot of good, especially supplemented here and there with real Hansen taps in different sizes from local hardware stores (like the 5/8-11 for cleaning Thermactor holes).2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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tap and die set is wonderful. I actually cost myself about $200 because I didn't have one. I was replacing the thermostat on my boat, and I couldn't clean the bolt hole out. The corner of the intake broke, and I had to get a new one. Went and bought the cheap HF tap and die set before I did the other motor, and it went together perfectly. Just that one job paid for itself.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
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Originally posted by torquelover View PostSo, this HF sounds like the place for cheap tools you don't use very often. I'll have to check it out once this "someone's important birthday/commercial holiday" is over with.
I've actually broken a couple taps from the set, and I do have a nice T-handle tap wrench, but buying one or two or four Hansen taps from the hardware store doesn't hurt near as much as, say, this one: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
A CVN guy I met on Saturday (97CV) was saying that he has some Harbor Freight prybars that he's abused the heck out of and are still fine, but that he doesn't trust anything from them that's small or has moving parts.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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Originally posted by 1987cp View PostYep, this is the tap and die set I have: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45766
I've actually broken a couple taps from the set, and I do have a nice T-handle tap wrench, but buying one or two or four Hansen taps from the hardware store doesn't hurt near as much as, say, this one: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
A CVN guy I met on Saturday (97CV) was saying that he has some Harbor Freight prybars that he's abused the heck out of and are still fine, but that he doesn't trust anything from them that's small or has moving parts.
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Need Input/Ideas.
Hey mang's I know i do alot of thinking talking asking questions ect hehe.. But when you have few funds you make sure you do evreything right the first time, along with few extra hour's.
Okay, so the more and more i get to thinking about my engine. The more stuff i think i should do. :P.
Now im rembering my BLOW BY, from asking you mang's a whille back. I still assume it has something to do with ring's or seals around the pistions. So aye. Im wanting to fix that.
This brings up me a question though..
I have limited resorses, i have no concrete floor here.. And I have no big tree...
Im wanting to pull my actualy engine. ( never pulled one before.. ) I dont have a cherry picker. But if one will actualy lift it out. and is decently priced i might get one..
I also have acses to a boom truck... Buuuuut. I dont know if i can get the O.K. on useing it for that due to all the oil..
So now. Mang's im asking you if you wanted to pull a engine. How would you do it? In my yard. which is mostly red HARD clay. it's like core material. A back hoe cant even break it loose.
Would you ask your tirent of a BOSS to use his boom truck? Buy a cherry picker. _____ Any idea would be usefull hehe.
Im also wanting to just slap a new oil pan on her btw. So aye. Really need her lifted.People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.
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Boom truck will work but you'd best have someone that can operate it fairly well or you'll have a hard time. Properly operated though, they make excellent engine pullers. I've done the motor in my boat twice with a boom truck now.
I have also pulled motors using a good strong tree and a chainfall. I've done them with come-alongs and a tree(not reccomended) , and even a home-made swing set with a chainfall. The swing set was basically an A frame deal made from 2 1/2" galvanized pipe all welded together. If you use a tree, be damned sure its very strong and you are hooked to a good solid branch. You do not want 800 lbs of iron and a big ass tree branch falling on you. I really do not suggest using a tree though. Its a good way to get hurt.
Do you have any rental places around? You might be able to rent an engine crane for the job.
Just something you should know, its probably going to cost $800 or more to rebuild that engine. My last machine shop bill plus the engine kit was about 750 bucks.Last edited by gadget73; 12-09-2007, 09:35 PM.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
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