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    Exhaust manifold gasket?

    '88 Town Car

    My car's got a horribly nasty exhaust leak right at the manifold. It's on the right side. How tough is it to change this thing while maneuvering around the A/C components? Didn't look like a picnic to me, but this leak seems to be getting much worse and it's really starting to irritate me. I don't really want to start disconnecting A/C crap (though the system isn't even pressurized right now - I just don't want to disturb anything) so if I can change the gasket without moving too much shit that'd be dandy.

    I'm sure the bolts won't be very eager to come out either... any suggestions for those? I wouldn't be very happy if I snapped one off in the head.

    #2
    Originally posted by CheeseSteakJim View Post
    '88 Town Car

    My car's got a horribly nasty exhaust leak right at the manifold. It's on the right side. How tough is it to change this thing while maneuvering around the A/C components? Didn't look like a picnic to me, but this leak seems to be getting much worse and it's really starting to irritate me. I don't really want to start disconnecting A/C crap (though the system isn't even pressurized right now - I just don't want to disturb anything) so if I can change the gasket without moving too much shit that'd be dandy.

    I'm sure the bolts won't be very eager to come out either... any suggestions for those? I wouldn't be very happy if I snapped one off in the head.
    What are you going to disturb? I take my hoses and crap off my clutch off all the time.

    I actually did the right side in school. It was a pain in the ass. All that shit for the air conditioner, and the smog pump. Mine was easier cause the bolts weren't heat welded in there. Took me about a half an hour with the stuff in the way. Probably would've taken less time if it was removed.

    For the bolts, spray them with PB spray. That stuff works wonders. Spray it on each bolt. And let it sit overnight. Good Luck

    Comment


      #3
      They don't come with exhuast gaskets from the factory. And it's rare to have a leaky manifold. You might have a hole in the air pump tubing....

      They are actually pretty easy to come off and they come off easily, except for the ones with studs...you don't have to remove it to install a gasket, loosen it up, take all but the end bolts out, drop a gasket in....
      Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

      Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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        #4
        Originally posted by mrltd View Post
        you don't have to remove it to install a gasket, loosen it up, take all but the end bolts out, drop a gasket in....
        yeah there are some exhaust manifold gaskets that allow you to do that. I would take it off anyway and clean the surfaces, and also check to see if the manifold is cracked.

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          #5
          Well I believe this was caused originally by something stupid I did that is funny to look back on but admittedly ridiculously stupid...

          Uh, anyways... anything that only takes half an hour doesn't sound like that big of a problem to me. Anyone know if my '88 has studs or bolts?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by CheeseSteakJim View Post
            Well I believe this was caused originally by something stupid I did that is funny to look back on but admittedly ridiculously stupid...

            Uh, anyways... anything that only takes half an hour doesn't sound like that big of a problem to me. Anyone know if my '88 has studs or bolts?
            Bolts. Some of the bolts have studs on the ends for accessories. If you were to do this I would completely remove the exhaust manifold to properly clean off any shit on the mating surface of the gaskets and to inspect the manifold for cracking or anything like that.

            It will take less time if you remove the stuff around it. Oh and I forgot to mention the flange that is usually connected to my exhaust manifold was disconnected so that kinda added to the time factor so it might take you around an hour or so. Those studs are more likely to break than the ones at the head. Also, if the studs break, you can take the manifold to a mufflershop and have them heat it and have them remove it. I think they are actually studed bolts too.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by CheeseSteakJim View Post
              Well I believe this was caused originally by something stupid I did that is funny to look back on but admittedly ridiculously stupid...

              Uh, anyways... anything that only takes half an hour doesn't sound like that big of a problem to me. Anyone know if my '88 has studs or bolts?
              studs and you can get bolts without studs at any hardware store. if your certain its leaking at the manifold they just might have got loose somehow and all you need to do is retighten.
              Give a man a fish and he will be fed for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will promptly forget that he once did not know, and proceed to call anyone who asks, a n00b and flame them on the boards for being stupid.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by cld783 View Post
                studs and you can get bolts without studs at any hardware store. if your certain its leaking at the manifold they just might have got loose somehow and all you need to do is retighten.
                It has bolts. Not studs. But you'll need a deep socket to get at them. 14mm to be exact.

                I doubt those things would come loose. They aren't like valve covers where they come loose sometimes. These things are almost rusted and welded in there.

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                  #9
                  Mine loosened up without a problem and threaded right out. They don't always seize in there.

                  2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
                  1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
                  But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8

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                    #10
                    mine were as loose as jenna jamesons twat. no effort at all to take them out. vicky have you ever even done this before dude?
                    Give a man a fish and he will be fed for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will promptly forget that he once did not know, and proceed to call anyone who asks, a n00b and flame them on the boards for being stupid.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by cld783 View Post
                      mine were as loose as jenna jamesons twat.
                      Originally posted by cld783 View Post
                      vicky have you ever even done this before dude?
                      yes I have. The drivers side in the car, once I broke them loose I didn't have any problems.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        removed the exhaust manifold bolts and studs loose on driver side of mine to get rid of the air box bracket since i installeda cone filter and aluminum tube setup. came loose from the head with no problem, the nuts on the studs holding bracket snapped though on one car i have. i would check smog pump lines that run to the catalytic convertors since it usually develops a hole by the check valve. another problem could be a donut where manifold meets down tube since mine has a leak and sounds like car is low on oil, but just an exhaust leak.
                        Addicted to 86-87 Panthers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          the passenger has one stud/bolt, should be near the back and its for the cat air injection tube. drivers side has 3, one for the dipstick, two for the air filter box bracket. Stick a wrench behind the bracket, remove the nut, slide the air tube bracket off the stud, then go to town. Another tip is to access most of the bolts through the wheel well with an extension and a flex joint on the socket. AC will be marginally in the way but if you're creative you can sneak the gasket in there without any great hassle. I've done it a few times on my car. My plug wire looms are more in the way than the AC compressor is to be honest.


                          also, these exhausts dont use a donut gasket. its a cone shaped outlet on the manifold with a flare on the exhaust pipe. No donut needed. there are flat gaskets farther back behind the cats where the H or Y bolts on though.

                          and this might be a wierd stretch, but are you positive that you aren't missing one of the plugs that threads into the end of the head to block off the thermactor passage? there is one on the front of each head. on the driver's side, one of the alternator bracket bolts threads into it. not sure if something threads in on the ac side or not. if that plug is missing, it will blow exhaust out of the head, It will look like a 5/8" bolt hole, but the actual bolt size that goes in there is 3/8" or something. If one of your accessory bracket bolts got cross threaded in, and was removed later it could have taken the plug out with it.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                          Comment


                            #14
                            you shouldnt have any problems, theres tons and tons of space......i got pics from 04 when i installed my headers with the ac in place.....plenty of room

                            1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                            2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                            1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                            1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                            2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                            1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                            please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              If those bolts are stuck you're screwed tho, I was never able to take off my driver-side manifold for just that reason - IIRC the socket rounded off the bolt's rusty head, but bolt still wouldn't let go. Also I agree with the suggestion that it's likely the smog plumbing leaking, and not the manifold itself.

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