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hehehe. Humm. Let me see if i can find my camra how about that. brb in like 10 - 20 min tops even if it's to say i dont have no batteries :P
Cant help with sound on it though.
Heres first vid mang
Preety much said the same thing i said word for word in this one. next few coming just taking a butt load of time to upload hehe
Ok a the end he says how where going to remove the lid in order to get to the jets and. first we must remove the clips. Secound vid will show a bit more on the clips.
Also before i forget you will need a t 25 torq something or another i hope you know what hes talking about. Not a philps head screwdriver for the screw like bolts.. you will see what im talking about in vid 3 :P
Techless tip: the clips that come with the carb like to fly off and get lost. I once found some clips at a hardware store that serve the same function but have more to grab onto, and are far easier both to uninstall and reinstall. I had actually bought a whole bunch of them at the time, but now of course I can't find the eeny-weeny paper bag ....
2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
no idea, you can go ask though. Only reason I suggested leaner is because you said leaning out the idle circuit seemed to help a bit. Too rich or too lean can cause a stumble, its hard to say which it is in your case without reading the plugs or playing with the adjustments to see what its doing exactly.
The Carter AFB is all the Edelbrock is. The AFB existed back in the 70s at least. At some point they became Weber carbs, not sure if Carter sold the rights to Weber, or if they've always been produced by Weber, but if you look on the side of your Edelbrock you'll find a big W cast into the body. Edelbrock carbs are simply shiny finishes on the old AFB. Same jets and rods.
how is your egr valve plumbed? might be on the wrong port on the carb. there are two up there, one is full vacuum at idle and drops with throttle, the other is none at idle and increases with throttle. Normally these are used for the vac advance, but you should be able to run the egr off the none at idle port. You also want a thermal switch in there somewhere so it won't try to open the egr when the motor is cold or it will stumble real bad.
And if it's stumbling at part throttle, that sounds lean to me...try going a step smaller (richer) on the metering rods and see what happens.
2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8
I made some progress today. I finally got the choke to work right, and I also modded the TV cable. I needed to "angle" it a little to better approach the throttle arm. It was a success, but I need to readjust the TV pressure. Its a little high for my taste right now.
The choke was easy enough to fix, after i realized my huge mistake. Its a switched 12V source folks... and I knew that all along. For some reason I wasn't thinking when I wired it up. An operational choke makes startup much easier; its a actually very smooth.
As for the stumbling... I figured that out too. First off, my EGR valve was ruined (not sure how that happened). The diaphragm won't hold (that means its no good, right?). So I temporarily have that disabled, until I can snag the valve off my other parts car. The stumbling is being caused by a vac leak, most likely in between the carb and intake, or around the vac port. I'm looking into it, but after I did some clearancing, the leak is nearly gone, and the stumbling, althought still present, is greatly diminished.
**2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties
yeah leaky diaphram on the egr valve means its shot. just fyi, the egr position sensor must seal properly too or it won't hold. if one of those O rings is torn, that could be your problem.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
Heres the latest. I still have to make some minor adjustments, and make this all look a little better. I need to rectify the vac. leak, and install a different EGR valve. I'm also going to readjust the timing as well, and adjust the TV pressure, as its a wee bit high for my tastes.
Pardon the fire extinguisher dust... and the dirty intake. It has been cleared, but I need to give it a wash. That'll come by the end of the week hopefully.
After I got the choke to work right, I noticed that the gas pedal was alot easier to depress. It makes the car alot easier to drive as well.
Overall, the project was decent. I wish some things had gone differently, but what the hell, right? I will be doing some more mods to the red box shortly, but I need a break for now. Next up will be a rebuild on the rear. That'll include gears, etc, and I'll follow that up with a full exhaust...
But, this is how you do a 4 bbl swap and retain all of the functional emissions junk, etc.
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