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    Brakes grabbing....WTF!!$#^%#$&#

    I noticed that my brakes will grab when driving the car for a while. If I shut the car off and let it sit for a half hour or so, the problem goes away. I changed out the MC, but no change. I had an '88 Bronco that had a similar problem (proportioning valve solved it). I hope it's not the proportioning valve, Ford in their infinite wisdom decided to discontinue them

    maybe the booster?....it seems to be workin' fine though :confused:

    Any thoughts on what it might be?....anybody else experience this?

    TIA

    #2
    Originally posted by mercuryhead View Post
    I noticed that my brakes will grab when driving the car for a while. If I shut the car off and let it sit for a half hour or so, the problem goes away. I changed out the MC, but no change. I had an '88 Bronco that had a similar problem (proportioning valve solved it). I hope it's not the proportioning valve, Ford in their infinite wisdom decided to discontinue them

    maybe the booster?....it seems to be workin' fine though :confused:

    Any thoughts on what it might be?....anybody else experience this?

    TIA
    After driving the car for a period of time, the brakes will hold, and not release? If you play with the pedal when the brakes are locked on (with the engine off), can you get the brakes to release?

    Anyway, we had the same problem with my brother's '88. We redid the entire braking system; from the roota to the toota. It turned out the problem was that last thing we changed; the booster. The diaphragm in the booster may be no good.

    My money is on that, because it sounds like you have the exact same problem he did.
    **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
    **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
    **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
    **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

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      #3
      Originally posted by P72Ford View Post
      After driving the car for a period of time, the brakes will hold, and not release? If you play with the pedal when the brakes are locked on (with the engine off), can you get the brakes to release?

      Anyway, we had the same problem with my brother's '88. We redid the entire braking system; from the roota to the toota. It turned out the problem was that last thing we changed; the booster. The diaphragm in the booster may be no good.

      My money is on that, because it sounds like you have the exact same problem he did.
      thanx for the reply!....Im guessin' the same thing.
      I tried to jack the car up to see if just the rears are grabbin'(proportioning valve problem), or all the wheels are grabbing(booster problem)....but by the time I got back to my car(30 min. later), it wasnt grabbing anymore.
      When you did the booster, did you have to adjust the push rod on it, or did it come pre-adjusted?
      Last edited by mercuryhead; 03-20-2008, 08:39 PM.

      Comment


        #4
        Last time I had something like this happen it was defective front calipers. Letting it sit for a bit allowed them to cool and release. Collapsed brake hoses can also do this. If your hoses and calipers are original, you might want to consider replacing them just due to age.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
          Last time I had something like this happen it was defective front calipers. Letting it sit for a bit allowed them to cool and release. Collapsed brake hoses can also do this. If your hoses and calipers are original, you might want to consider replacing them just due to age.
          it would be odd to have both front go at the same time tough.........and the car doesn't pull to one side, it grabs evenly. Hopefully tomorrow I will know for sure when I jack up the car to see if it's just the front, just the rear, or all around.

          Comment


            #6
            i had a bad caliper, replaced it, and the other one went bad the next day. anything is possible. if those caliper slider pins have not been lubricated for a long time, that might be it.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

            Comment


              #7
              Yeah, when/if you change the calipers don't forget to dip the end of each slider pin into some synthetic brake grease.

              Comment


                #8
                We also thought it was the calipers (or rear wheel cylinders) on my brother's '88. When the brakes used to stick on, it was all of the brakes that were applied. We jacked it up, and upon trying to rotate the wheels, realized all the brakes were stuck. But, after we replaced everything else in the system (except for the booster), it still wasn't fixed.
                **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
                **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
                **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

                Comment


                  #9
                  UPDATE!
                  Gadget was right, bad calipers/hoses.....Thanx for the input.....thanx to everybody!
                  I jacked up the car and the rear wheels moved fine, but the fronts were sticking. The driver's side was sticking alot and the passenger side was sticking only a little. Tomorrow Im gonna pick up some new calipers and hoses.

                  Originally posted by CheeseSteakJim View Post
                  Yeah, when/if you change the calipers don't forget to dip the end of each slider pin into some synthetic brake grease.
                  I usually use castrol wheel bearing grease, but tomorrow Ill see if they have synthetic brake grease at the parts store.
                  Last edited by mercuryhead; 03-21-2008, 09:37 PM.

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                    #10
                    DON'T use any petroleum based lube on them. Petroleum breaks down rubber. Use synthetic brake grease.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The wheel bearing grease also won't hold up to the temperatures brakes run at. it will thin and run out.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                      Comment


                        #12
                        ok......thanx for the heads up. I will for sure buy some synthetic brake grease.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          i had a similar problem about 2 months ago and it was in the rear drums. the cable for the left rear self adjuster had broken sometime in the past and eventually the star wheel assembly fell out, bounced around, broke a brake shoe, and ground itself into oblivion while making the most horrendous noise and dragging like it was trying to till solid rock. now i know why the left rear never locked up.
                          '88 Colony Park, white with wood grain contact paper, K code axle, hose pliers on heater hoses, factory duals, big plans in the future...

                          '83 Toyota 4x4, 31x10.50 15, could use a new carb, custom humidifying holes in the roof, mud based paint...

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I did the calipers and the hoses on Saturday and all is well, except that the front pads are noisy(grinding) now on heavy braking. I left the old pads on, they were practically brand new.

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