Out of ideas gas out of carb.cont from noobie

[Mercracer]

I really do like how everyone is helping im sorry to whoever thinks this is a train wreck, and you couldnt have made it any more of an attack,
.

I am trying to help you by being very honest.... I made no personal attacks against you... I stated colorfully that these 2 threads are going poorly.... WAY too many tangents for you to follow at once.... It actually isn't all your fault either... People trying to help sent you on these tangents also....
Listening to your car "try" to start would be absolutely no help in troubleshooting your starting problem...... Both fuel and spark issues can make a "trying to start" sound when you crank your engine over...

I understand that you are frustrated because you do not have alot of experience with this type of thing... The secret is to stay focused on one thing at a time.. Eliminate that as a possible problem and move on... You should still be on your carb and likely wet plugs...

If it makes you feel better, you can take the 5 minutes it takes and check your base timing... Align your distributor rotor with the #1 cyl plug wire distributor cap post by turning your engine over clockwise by hand, or if you have a friend you can bump it over until it gets close then turn the rest of the way by hand. Your timing pointer should be generally close to 10 degrees BTDC on your dampener. Anywhere from 5 to 15 is the range that you could expect it to be. If it is, then forget about timing including timing chain/gears etc being an issue...

If someone told you that the carb was good, but it actually only did a fountain imitation, they were wrong..... A mechanical pump is not going to push fuel past your needle/seat....
You need to focus on your carb problem first. Could it also be one of the other 1.2K things which "could" prevent an engine from starting? Maybe, but it is usually something very simple. Don't ignore the obvious ...
The fuel coming from your carb is the obvious.. If fuel is coming from the vents in your carb, then your plugs are likely soaked. That is why I suggest just buying new plugs....

[Mercracer]

You want a simple test to see if it is a carb/excess fuel issue??????
Take the fuel line off of your fuel pump and plug it. Now no fuel can get to your carb.... Take your carb off..... Pull ALL of your plugs.... Turn your engine over for just a few seconds to clear the fuel out of it....... Squirt just a little oil in each cylinder... Turn your engine over for just a few seconds to clear the oil out of it....... This will help your rings seal if they got washed down.. Tilt your carb to pour some of the fuel out of it.... You are just making sure that it is not over full..... Put ALL NEW plugs in and double check the firing order... Put your carb back on.... Try and start it.... Report back....

If you PM me your phone number, I can call you to walk you through what I am talking about and help you figure out what the issue is.....

[Leiscustoms]

Alrighty thanks ill get right back to ya.

[Mercracer]

An item of clarification, don't hook the fuel line back up to the pump until you try to start it..... There should still be enough fuel in the carb to get the motor to fire... If you work the throttle and no fuel squirts from your accelerator pump, just pour a very small amount of fuel down the carb...

[Leiscustoms]

Right on guys i checked into the timing is it true, that i can bum the ungin over till the dampener lines up with that large cut out,( i found a like on distributors on this sitem it had a good pic,) oncse that lines up, the rotor should be at the number one wire right? ( i just dont have the 14 15th ratched, and not a lot of room , to im just bumping the engine with the key,) if the is correct, and i did it right, then when the damener is at zero and if that means the rotor should point at number one, than im sxrew because its pointing at number 4. im gonna go charge my batt and give it another go around and see.
If this is wronge pls let me know. Im almost hopeing its the carb, but well see.

[Nathan in MI]

For one complete cycle of the number one cylinder, the crankshaft will go thru two revolutions. Sounds like when you brought the timing mark on the damper up to the reference mark, you were at #1 TDC on the intake stroke instead of the compression stroke. From that point, if you go one more revolution with the crank, you should be at #1 TDC on the compression stroke, and at that point the distributor rotor will be pointing at #1. This, of course, is assuming that the distributor hasn't been taken out and reinstalled 180 degrees out of phase.

[Mercracer]

Right on guys i checked into the timing is it true, that i can bum the ungin over till the dampener lines up with that large cut out.............If this is wronge pls let me know.

It is most definitely wrong...... That large cut out is NOT used for distributor timing purposes.....

There are small hash marks on the dampener. Jack your car up (use a jack stand) and crawl underneath.... Take a flashlight and a white crayon or a bottle of whiteout with you. If the large cutout is up, the timing marks should be down... Look for the 0 and the 10 BTDC marks and mark them.... Now you can see what you are looking for from the top better...
If you insist on watching the dampener instead of the rotor you can just bump the motor over until the pointer is aligned with the white marks. Look where the rotor is pointing.... If it is 180 from the #1 cyl, rotate the motor 1 more time.... It should now be pointing at the #1 cyl......

This picture gives you a general idea of marking the distributor.. Put a line on the outside of the distributor which aligns with the #1 wire position on the cap. Pull the cap off and make a line on the inside of the distributor so that you can easily see when the rotor is aligned with it..... If you simply bump the engine over until the rotor is aligned with the mark, you can then look at the dampener and see if the pointer points at your timing marks.... This is the second time I mentioned this.....


Timing Marks
If you look closely you will see ATC and BTC... You are looking for the Before Top (dead) Center numbers for timing......

[Leiscustoms]

and are we linning that up with the line or the circle, im gonna post some pics.
1 is the marks 1 -10 btc linning up with the circle,
2 is the location of the rotor with respect to photo 1
3 is the mark being linned up with the other peice of metal (straight)
4 is the location of the rotor with respectto pic 3.

In all the work ive done i havent lifter the distibutor out of the car, so if all this means its off then its off, also the whole 180 degrees of thing, does that not apply becasue it seems to only be off by like two plugs worth.

[Nathan in MI]

http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=21490

[86VickyLX]

Is your timing right? 15426378

[Leiscustoms]

in that link he said you need to have the rotor at 11 oclock for the first cylinder, but then he shouws that its marked on the cap, and it is more at one oclock than 11? im close to cracking this just need someone to crack this.

[Leiscustoms]

ya its all in order, just need someone to ne like ya your out, or ya its good, just not sure have a looka t the pics.

[86VickyLX]

Don't go by me, but it might be that you have the distributor at 11 oclock before you drop it in the hole, and then it goes in the hole, the rotor will be turned when the cam gear and the gear on the bottom of the distributor mesh. Then it will be lined up with #1. Don't go by this unless someone confirms it.

[Leiscustoms]

Ya i havenet takent the distributor out at all so if its off, then infact it was the timeing chanin that slipped.

[Mercracer]

Your timing didn't jump. Use photo 3 for timing. The straight edge of the pointer......
If the straight edge is between 5 and 15 bdc, and the rotor is pointing to #1 you are good to go... Where EXACTLY is your pointer pointing to on the dampener??? Which number???????? Mark the #1 cyl on the adapter so that you can see it with the cap off.
Now stop screwing around and work in the carb.....