Okay, now with the pics my memory is refreshed. Sorry for the argument gadget, the wire loop I was thinking of was the one that's on the other end, and hooks to the peg on the shifter. Got mixed up because I don't remember ever taking off the clamp, but *shrug* I must've because I got that cluster out and back in without much difficulty. Was busy as a motherfucker that day, had to get most of the driver's side dash out, headlamp harnesses in, and dash back in within the five hour school day.
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I'm kicking myself in the butt because I let my steering column hang one day while doing some work because I was lazy. It needs more than duct tape and zip ties now as a plastic peice broke and is hanging on the wire right at the bottom of the cluster. Maybe it is a hook? I'll go to Pick n Pull eventually to see what the arrangement is so that I know what it looks like behind the cluster and what is part of the wire assembly. I'm thinking it is a plastic peice where it screws onto the back of the cluster. If the crown vic is D9AZ7E363A then the grand marquis might be D9MY7E363A?Comment
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If it is close to the town car picture, then it is probably just broken right at the screw so all I need to do is grab a decent one at the yard.Comment
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If you broke the tubing, you're gonna need another shift indicator. What year is your car? The box Merc one is a little different. It's horizontal, and it comes apart in two pieces. The white collar part, then a loop attaches that wire to the needle part of the indicator. Late boxes and Early aeros use something similar. I've never been able to get into one of those without breaking something. Those are horizontal instead of the verticle selection like the older box Mercs used.Comment
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Not sure what the Mercury part is, but a Ford dealer can get you the parts. I paid about 20 bucks for the new Towncar one. They're all basically similar, but they don't interchange. The collar itself and the arm with the peg is the same, but the other end that sits in the cluster is shaped differently.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it worksComment
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It's 88. I also accidentally broke the tubing so that some of the wire inside is exposed. Since it is horizontal, I'm thinking the speedo would need to come off to see how a new cable would connect to the indicator on the other side? I just wish I could go to Pick n Pull more but I'm usually in such a bind that I end up waiting for my brother to go and then tagging along so that I can owe him for what he gets me. Then he gets tired and wants to leave before I've really dismantled everything I really wanted to figure out.Comment
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Drive yourself instead of waiting for your brother.
The cluster has to come apart to get the cable out usually. Never done a Grand Marq one tho, so it may be different but Lincoln and Ford ones involve about 8 screws around the outside to get the shell off, then one screw inside to get the cable out of the housing.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it worksComment
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I don't know how that trim that covers the instrument cluster comes off of a Mercury without breaking the trim. The fucking trim piece runs down to around the headlight switch. Which makes it impossible to take off without removing the headlight switch knob. From what I've experienced.
If you broke that plastic tubing around the cable, you're gonna need to get another one.Comment
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Not sure if earlier headlamp knobs are the same, but on the 90+, you can use a pick to disengage the locking tab inside the headlight knob and slide it off the shaft.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it worksComment
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Headlight knobs are the same as any other pre '90 panther. The shiny chrome one. But it may come off different.Comment
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Do you know the part number of the shift indicator bracket and cable for 1987 Grand M
Is it D9MY-7E363-A or would it be better to call a Ford dealership?
or D9AZ-7E363-ALast edited by classic87merc; 04-12-2012, 03:48 PM.Comment
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MY for the Merc... AZ for the Ford.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.Comment
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damn I just order D9AZ-7E363-A. It should fit the same as the D9MY-7E363-A right?Originally posted by slymer View Post
It's going into a 1987 Mercury GM.
Until then I rigged it with a strap which is sufficient for now. I plan on changing the D9AZ-7E363-A when I replace my heater core.
Would their be any photos or videos that could guide me through the process of changing a heater core on this model?
I have seen a few the threads talking about it but I would love a walk-through. I might just make one myself if I get a tripod for my camera.Comment
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it should fit... it's longer though. You'll have to deal with the slack.
as for the heater core: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...-Core-Write-Up
same general idea on 79-89.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.Comment
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I just fixed mine. My indicator on my '89 wasn't reading correctly. So, after reading some of the earlier posts, I pulled off the steering column lower cover and I saw that the white ring that clamps to the steering shaft tube was broken.
What I did to fix it was to first break off the two tabs that stick out were the little bolt goes through to clamp the white ring. Then, get a hose clamp and feed it around the steering shaft tube and put it over the top of the white ring (this is why I broke off the tabs). I put the clamp below the shift indicator cable (closer to the floor than the cable) because it seems to fit better that way. Then tighten the hose clamp so it's almost tight but not tight enough to prevent you from rotating the white ring around for final adjustment. There are lots of wires in the column area. Make sure you don't put the hose clamp over the top of any wires.
Now, put the gear selector in overdrive and rotate the white ring as required to get the needle to line up with the overdrive symbol on the indicator. When you have it lined up, make a final tightening of the hose clamp. Then, check the needle again to make sure it didn't move during final tightening. The slightest movement of the white ring can throw the needle off. Mine moved during final tightening, and I had to go back again and make the position adjustment of the needle.
Kind of a jerry-rig fix, but it seems to work and it's cheap and you don't have to dig into your steering column very far.Last edited by TomO; 04-13-2012, 11:23 PM.Comment
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