Finally started the water pump replacement on the tudor

[HerMajestysMechanic]

Whooo boy isnt this fun. Have to tear apart damn near the whole front of the motor, just to get at the pump. And when I finally got to the pump, not only did I find what looked almost like yeast, a white, squishy substance in the brown "anti-freeze", but also the outlet for the short hose to the manifold was completely rotted awayI dont even know how the hose and clamp stayed attatched. Tomorrow I'm gonna pick up replacements for those two short hoses. and a tube of RTV (which my dumb ass forgot to pick up). First time I've done somethin like this solo. Also picked up a new T-stat, a 190degree one. Is that too high? Any words of advice on the re-assemble? Like how the hell Im going to tighten the tensioner without another person? heh


Thanks fellers

The Admiral

[Freshmeat]

I think I run a 195* t-stat. 302s like to be on the warm side I've always found... and something too cool will keep the engine from operating at temp so the ECM will keep trying to get it there by dumping more fuel.

For the reassembly, just be patient and take it one step at a time. Be sure you replace those hoses and get new clamps while you're at it. Don't forget to reattach the lower radiator hose. "I hear" that's a common problem.

Good luck on it. Again, there can't be enough patience during a water pump swap.

[gadget73]

Stock thermostat is 195. I run a 180 in mine, it wanted to run a bit too hot with the 195 and the stock radiator. Probably would be fine now with the larger radiator but I'm not interested in changing it.

The rest of it isn't that big a deal. Make sure you clean the threads on the WP bolts with a tap or a wire brush or something to get all the gunk out. If the bolt shanks are thin and pitted looking, buy a new bolt kit. I'd also suggest liberal use of anti-seize on the bolts.

[ss_mini14]

i'd like to run a 180 t-stat in mine but i'm not sure if it agrees with the stock computer. anyone know when the system goes into closed loop?

[pollock]

Whooo boy isnt this fun. Have to tear apart damn near the whole front of the motor, just to get at the pump. And when I finally got to the pump, not only did I find what looked almost like yeast, a white, squishy substance in the brown "anti-freeze", but also the outlet for the short hose to the manifold was completely rotted awayI dont even know how the hose and clamp stayed attatched. Tomorrow I'm gonna pick up replacements for those two short hoses. and a tube of RTV (which my dumb ass forgot to pick up). First time I've done somethin like this solo. Also picked up a new T-stat, a 190degree one. Is that too high? Any words of advice on the re-assemble? Like how the hell Im going to tighten the tensioner without another person? heh


Thanks fellers

The Admiral

Take the hoses to the parts store with you for match-up purposes. Also, note that not every parts store carries these hoses.

As for reassembly - When installing engine gaskets, cleanliness is next to godliness. Get all that old gasket material off of there. Sometimes a putty knife or razor blade will get it. This weekend I had to use a wire wheel in a die grinder because the old gasket was so hard. 3M adhesive cleaner is probably the best thing to use as a final cleaner but other products should be adequate as well.

The water pump for these cars has a steel back plate that is held on with some low-profile-head bolts. I put RTV on that gasket too.

Let the RTV cure overnight if at all possible before putting water back in the system.

Clean up the studs with a wire brush or something. Put some RTV on the threads of each as you install them; sometimes they penetrate the water jacket. The top ones obviously don't but I put RTV on them anyway.

[Wray-Wray]

If the bolt shanks are thin and pitted looking, buy a new bolt kit. I'd also suggest liberal use of anti-seize on the bolts.

when i bought my water pump it came with new bolts....its a damn good thing i broke them both trying to get them out! so check out the box that it comes with you might get new bolts(if you haven't bought yours yet...i got mine from Advanced auto you might want to go there and get it because fo the bolt thing it think it was like 54 bux and tax for brandy new) and +++++++2222 on the never cease comment!

[mrltd]

Anti-sieze is better than the rtv for the long bolts to reduce the amount of rust buildup on the bolts.

[Freshmeat]

Anti-sieze is better than the rtv for the long bolts to reduce the amount of rust buildup on the bolts.

x2

[HerMajestysMechanic]

Success!!! Ohh heavenly day!! The tudor lives and runs again. And how fuggin sweet it is!. No more random overheating, no more steam geysers from the front of the motor, and better yet, no more angry squealing on start-up. Sumbitch runs like a top now. And better still, both the AC and heater are back to full functionality. Just in time too. Damn Im glad to be back behind the wheel of my baby.

I must say, having never attempted anything like this on a vehicle newer than 1975, I was unsure if I could do it solo. but thanks to y'alls valuable advice, and my own sheer cheap-assery in refusing to pay a mechanic 300+ bucks to do it, she's back on the road.

Thanks for the support and counsel fellas.

The Admiral

[Freshmeat]

Glad to hear you're up and running again, man. It's a tough job to tackle, but once you're finished, as you're experiencing now, it's a great feeling.

[gadget73]

i'd like to run a 180 t-stat in mine but i'm not sure if it agrees with the stock computer. anyone know when the system goes into closed loop?

160.

[ss_mini14]

i'm there, thanx

[86VickyLX]

Any words of advice on the re-assemble? Like how the hell Im going to tighten the tensioner without another person? heh


Thanks fellers

The Admiral

Remember where each bolt went. Make sure all surfaces are clean. Make sure the belt is in it's grooves and not over where it's supposed to be or you might lose the belts. For the tensioner, just push down as hard as you can with your tight hand. (Wear padded gloves, your hands will thank you) And tighten the bolt, with your left hand. Tighten the one behind the bracket first, and then just tighten the one next to the compressor.. To check if it's tensioned properly, twist the belt. If it twists anymore than 90*, there's too much slack in the belt. Good Luck.


Oh NVM, Congrats!!

[88grandmarq]

i'd like to run a 180 t-stat in mine but i'm not sure if it agrees with the stock computer. anyone know when the system goes into closed loop?

closed loop happens at 178 degrees and/or 2 minutes time. basically it depends how soon the 02 sensors heat up.