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how to "break in" a rebuilt 306

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    #1

    how to "break in" a rebuilt 306

    what has worked for you guys the best for breaking in your new motor? I have heard running it hard to being easy with her. I have so far just driven her around the block with moderate, smooth throttle. I just want it to be broken in right and last a long time
    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.
    Tags: None
    #2
    I've heard the best thing is to go the first 500 miles easy, some Interstate, but mostly city driving. Don't let it get above 3,000 RPM and keep a close eye on all your gauges. This gives everything a chance to seat properly at a reasonable rate of use instead of being redlined through the roof all the time.
    2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
    1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
    1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

    Comment

      #3
      a few 30-60 WOT blasts with an off-throttle deceleration between should do fine to seat the rings. Past that, try to vary the speed for the first couple hundred miles, and change the oil around 500.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

      Comment

        #4
        Somebody else on these boards mentioned that you shouldn't use synthetic oils (Mobil 1 was mentioned) because it doesn't allow for enough friction for everything to wear in right while breaking in.
        Originally posted by gadget73
        There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
        91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
        93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
        Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
        Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
        95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

        Comment

          #5
          Cool, my engine builder recommended Shell Rotella T 15W-30 so thats what I'm running at the present. She has about 300 miles on her now, and when she gets up near 1000 I'm going to put her on the dyno!
          1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

          Comment

            #6
            But then make sure you switch to a good synthetic version of whatever weight he recommends after break in. </synthetic oil soapbox>
            Originally posted by gadget73
            There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
            91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
            93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
            Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
            Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
            95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

            Comment

              #7
              I have also heard to not use synthetics until the first one or two oil changes. That give the rings etc to work in.

              Tim
              84 Lincoln Town car signature, R.I.P
              85 Ford LTD Crown Victoria 2 door performance project
              89 Lincoln town car: RIP
              89 Crown Victoria LX 2002 USACi sound quality world champion RIP
              1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS
              1994 Mercury Grand Marquis (sold)
              2004 Mercury Marauder. owned for a week then got screwed by the dealer

              Comment

                #8
                basically the rings will be seated or not by the time you hit 100 miles. I went to synthetic on mine at the second oil change, 3000 miles. I'm running 10w30, as thats what Ford suggests.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                Comment

                  #9
                  I have been wanting to make a thread on this subject for a while now, but I don't have the testicular fortitude to start a possible war. I have read the easy break-in theory in quite a few sources. Then I saw this.......

                  http://www.mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm


                  I think sections 24, 21, and 9 are the ones that I read. It makes sense, I just don't know if I would try this on a fresh engine that I just built w/o seeing proof of this theory working in person.


                  Packman

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Monterey 1962s car (Super Unknown ... S.U.)he had at SF07 we finished building day before the dragstrip. people have built engines and immediately raced them. drive it how you feel fit, but dont baby the hell out of it or when you do go to push the engine, it wont really know what you are wanting from it.
                    Addicted to 86-87 Panthers

                    Comment

                      #11
                      I hammered on my crown vic as soon as I drove it for the first time, and it didn't even have an hour or so on it yet lol...

                      As long as it's not a flat tappet cam motor (which you MUST follow the cam break-in) I say break it in like you are gonna drive it.
                      1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
                      Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Most drag racing engines are broken in at the track. Food for thought...........
                        1989 Town Car Cartier: 3G Alt. Upgrade, Mark VIII Electric Fan, Police Interceptor Suspension, 40-series Flows, loaded. HO+ Conversion: E7 heads, Cobra 1.7RR's, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, FMS "E" Camshaft, 4-hole 19lb/hr injectors, A9P ECM, 76mm C&L MAF, BBK CAI. 338,000Km, stock bottom-end.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Hold the throttle to the floor.

                          Problem solved.

                          Comment

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