A longrod motor would be a great choice, that's that the TwEECer is for lol... I got my L motor ready made, but upon a new build a longrod would definitely be one of the considerations...
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351 build ideas? what heads?
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https://www.facebook.com/jason.baker.1614
1985 P43 Crown Vic, "Lightning Interceptor". Project is back on!
1987 P72 Crown Vic, EFI 351W (not my conversion), rusty and crusty parts car.
2006 Ford Fusion, 30MPG, premium sound, daily driver, 200K miles and still going.
2011 Ford Fucus, 36MPG, Sync, wifey / baby mobile.
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FFRP has a 427 small block1984 CV tudor 351W, 4bbl, 5-speed best time in the 1/8 8.39 at 80 with 1.80 60ft time.
2006 P71, 1988 Bronco II, 1986 Baby LTD(5.0 & T5 swap in progress), 1976 16' Hobie Cat, 12' AquaFinn
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2651997 UPDATED 20100826
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Back when I contemplated a nengine build for the red box, my plan was to use Larry's layout for a 351 long rod. I have the F4 block to start with, and I planned to use AFR 165 heads, a Stealth intake, BG 625, etc; just like he outlined. The driveability and potential power numbers kind of seal the deal. But, when you start to add it all up, it gets expensive really quickly, especially when you do it the right way, which is the only way. So that kind of turned me off; that and the fact that the transmission wouldn't be long for the world behind that engine.
But, should I ever build a driveable performance engine, that would be my choice.**2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
**2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
**2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
**1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties
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P.S.: FRPP shortblocks, long blocks, and crate engines are all overpriced.**2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
**2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
**2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
**1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties
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Originally posted by 70torino429 View Postwhats the deal?
This thread is rapidly approaching 'Magazine Build' territory, and to be honest with you, I really don't want to have any part of it. I could really care less whether or not you actually follow any advice I give, because if one makes it a point to offer actual tech advice to other people on a message board, then that person must first develop a thick skin, as most advice often goes.....ignored.
But at this point, judging by your completely clueless response, and speed to which you responded, it's clear that you didn't even bother to read anything listed....either time I posted a link to it.
That's completely your choice, of course. But at this point, I'm not really sure you have even the slightest clue as to what the hell you are doing, other than yanking everyone's chain here. Had you actually read what was posted, you would have realized, in short order, that the short-block combination I presented would have been perfect for what you were attempting to do, simply because this is almost the easiest engine combination to tune for.
Had you actually bothered to peruse what information I had posted....long-rod engines are perfect for smaller cylinder heads (excellent match for the GT40 head you were speaking of using), smaller camshafts (TFS Stage I you mentioned, I believe?), and with the smaller cams....you don't fuck up the vacuum signal, which is almost the most difficult thing to correct for with tuning an EFI setup.
Having actually driven the two cars I installed my two long-rod-build engines into....provided you actually follow what was posted, your problem is going to be not having enough tire to get it to hook up afterwards. This is why I state that this thread has gone the way of 'magazine builds', as in an inexperienced half-wit shows up, and begins mentioning building supercharged strokers....just like they do in the 'magazines', and having no idea just how difficult it is, or how expensive it gets, just to get that much power to the ground....when a 'mild', non-stroker and non-supercharged 400HP engine presents enough problems all by itself.
This combo, with the heads and cam you suggested, can produce 400 hp....and produces power pretty much anywhere in the RPM range. If that isn't enough for you....on a budget, mind you....I wish you luck with your quest for Magazine Insanity.
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arguing with you would be like arguing with an 8 year old, they whine, bitch and moan till they get what they want and then 10 minutes later they find something else to bitch about , soooo im not going there. i did in fact read everything posted and ive read over your long rod thread multiple times.
your points are taken, albeit it seems you threw alot of them out there just in spite that your pissed off at someone or something, some of your points do make sense.
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Originally posted by 1987cp View PostTrue. That sort of engine might be one justifiable reason to actually use a C6.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
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I would go 4R70w, identical to the AOD, and even more electronics to play withsigpic
https://www.facebook.com/jason.baker.1614
1985 P43 Crown Vic, "Lightning Interceptor". Project is back on!
1987 P72 Crown Vic, EFI 351W (not my conversion), rusty and crusty parts car.
2006 Ford Fusion, 30MPG, premium sound, daily driver, 200K miles and still going.
2011 Ford Fucus, 36MPG, Sync, wifey / baby mobile.
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ill stick with the aod, i think it can be built up good enough for any kind of abuse. i see some aods sold to go behind 460s so the potential is there. 4R70w would be neat though, what kind of controller are you using for it?
maybe some day i could see your car in person, and see how much of a difference the 4r70w makes, since ive heard its alot better out of the box than the aod
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