Advice on getting it running (1989 MGM LS 5.0L EFI 46000)

[Ringting]

The value of a job well done is appreciated long after the investments of time & money are made. Quality workmanship is a desirable attribute. Plus it just feels good knowing the issue is resolved, not band-aided.

[91waggin]

So the vacuum line to the MAP is rotted? When you're at the wrecker, as I said before, grab a couple of MAP sensors. Make sure you don't use windshield washer tube. Use fuel or stuff for vacuum hoses. Windshield washer tube often looks like it's perfect, but it will usually collapse on itself under vacuum.

Also, you may find that the fitting on the MAP and the fitting on the bottom of the upper intake manifold are two different sizes. I believe the original has a barb fitting coupler under the manifold so you can use two different diameter lines.

[Lincolnmania]

check for trouble codes, dont assume there are none because the check engine light is not on.........some 89's do not have a check engine light and the older models do not have it at all.
replace the spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, air filter, fuel filter...........check all the vacuum lines, replace the pcv valve and the pcv screen and gromnet, clean the iac and throttle body

it's rare for the efi cars to clog the cats at such a low mileage

[gadget73]

Another MAP test. Unhook the vacuum line from it and see if it runs more normally. Last dud MAP I ran across idled perfectly with no vacuum, but ran like complete shit with the line hooked up. Totally backwards from how it ought to act.

I'd also snag a couple MAP sensors. They're generally reliable, so it would be worth swapping a used one on even for troubleshooting purposes. Chances that several used ones would all be defective is slim.

[Ringting]

I am just heading out to pull the codes. Yes I have a Check Engine Light.


Done:
Replaced air filter, fuel filter, pcv valve/pcv screen/gromnet, cleaned the iac and throttle body, checked all the vacuum lines, lots of engine compartment cleaning

To be done:
replace the spark plugs (there were cleaned [band-aid]), spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor (there were cleaned [band-aid]).

Today I did an inventory of what was gathered for my son's 1990 Mark VII and guess what I found? A MAP sensor. I might swap it tonight. This weekend I will get a couple more while walking the yards.

So along with the codes I shall try the running test suggested. I do need to tighten the exhaust system back up so it won't piss off my nosey neighbor and my loverly wife. Worst part of Orange County, CA is the 4 foot property lines / 8 feet between houses. I do miss my 1/2 acre lot from Newmarket.

Oh and on the hose, I bought some Vacuum/Washer fuild hose ($1.49/ft) should I try it or just mark that down as experience.

[Ringting]

Results from checking codes (Key On Engine Off)

2 Digit Self-test Codes 11-32
Abbreviations:
KOEO = Key On Engine Off
CM = Continues Memory
KOER = Key On Engine Running
# KOEO CM KOER Code Definition

11 X X X System pass!
http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=14

Two Digit Codes 33-58
# KOEO CM KOER Code Definition

34 X X PFE or EVP circuit above the closed limit of 0.67 volts.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=46


From my note related to Lincoln Mark VII
Error Code 11 = System Pass [Type: C/O/R]

Error Code 34 = EGR Valve Position/Pressure Feedback EGR [Type: C/O/R]
Voltage Above Closed Limits (Others)

[Lincolnmania]

it's prob the egr position sensor causing the code 34......swap it out with the mk7 one and clear the codes and see what happens

[91waggin]

Oh and on the hose, I bought some Vacuum/Washer fuild hose ($1.49/ft) should I try it or just mark that down as experience.

It's your judgment call. If you think it has thick enough walls to not collapse under vacuum, it'll probably be fine.

[gadget73]

egr sensor is wonky, or theres a chunk of crap under the pintle that won't let it close. If thats the case, it will make for a big vacuum leak and cause poor running manners.

[Ringting]

Greetings,
Life is improving however not quite 100%. I welcome any new direction based on what is below.
The support provided has been wonderful and I appreciate your ongoing advice.
Take care,
Craig

Highlights
1) Cars starts much easier
2) Running better yet still wants to stall
3) Can push accelerator to floor and does not die
4) Heat is now reaching cabin

Current Codes: 34 and 79

Recent Work Done
A) EGR valve switched out and ports cleaned



B) New Plugs [#4 Wire is not tight on plug now & found connect for #7 on Cap was rusted]

C) New Rotor installed and Distributor cap cleaned
D) 90% of fuel related vacuum hose switched out [Sunday will lift Upper Intake Manifold and finish job]
E) Switched out inline heater sensor

Details
The car now starts without pumping prior to turning key.

Initially some feathering is required [talking 5-6 minutes] then able to slowly change pressure on accelerator and keep it running.

Can push accelerator all the way to the floor and engine continues to run.

Used die-electric grease when reconnecting EGR, Spark Plugs to Wires, and Wires to Cap.

MAP sensor has not been switched out at this point.

Future Plans
New Wires and Distributor Cap

Finish hosing replacement when remove Upper Intake Manifold

May remove and clean Fuel Injectors while Manifold is off plus anything else I have access along with lots of cleaning.

Trip to Pick Your Part Sunday morning.

[gadget73]

Sounds like the IAC is bad or sticky. Thats the film can looking thing on the opposite side of the throttle body from the EGR valve. Pull that off and clean it out. If that makes no difference, grab a shiny looking one next time you're in the junkyard.

I[d also swap the fuel filter out if you haven't done that yet. Passenger side, just forward of the rear wheel on the frame.

[Ringting]

Gadget73,
Is this the part you are talking about?


If so I have already cleaned a spare one I had and installed the casting with Ford molded into it. The original electrical part attached to casting was left as is. I do have a spare one. Should they be switched also? I will look for shiny ones tomorrow.

Fuel Filter was done however willing to do once again if need be.

[91waggin]

Yes, that is the IAC. Replace both halves. The half with the electrical plug on it is the part with the electricals in it, so that's the part that usually has issues.

[gadget73]

yep, thats the one. Sometimes the electrical bit gets wonky, but often its the valve part that gets sticky. I just swap the whole thing as an assembly when I replace them. For the most part, the sensors and actuators on these cars are reliable with regular use, but when things sit for long periods they tend to fail. Case in point, the Mark VII has 232k with mostly original sensors and actuators on it, yet it all works fine. The Towncar needed a lot of that stuff replaced at 125k, but the car sat for several years.

[Ringting]

Evening,
Things continue to improve however Code 34 remains my unwelcome companion.

Saw a White 1991 Crown Vic at Pick Your Part today in their restricted area. Front left and rear right corners have minor damage. Based on appearance it has been sitiing for many years. Probably will be crushed due to being part of California's $1,000 retirement program for 20+ year old cars.

Current State:
1) Starts easily (still pumping twice prior to turning key)
2) Running smoother, staggering gone (feathering required as still will not idle)
3) After a few minutes can hold accelerator at 2/3rds and will basically run/idle for a while before starting to cough/choke/sputter causing feathering to be used again.
4) Heater does work (recently added coolant based on this)
5) Kid down the street helping me is Smiling Ear to Ear. Wants to change oil.

What I am thinking should be done
A) Check Exhaust Manifold sensors [ones just before cats]
B) Remove the Input Manifold to make finishing fuel vacuum lines easier
C) Deal with anything and everything can access with Input Manifold off
D) Use electrical tester to check EGR and IAC connectors
E) Switch out Ignition Coil due to corrosion found when changing wires

F) In 2000 Valve Cover Gaskets replaced and mechanic F-ED up lots of stuff. From what I can figure out it has not run well since. So taking Intake Manifold off presents great opportunity to resolve many long term issues
G) Concern is if I start down path above how far is far enough.

New Parts Installed Recently (Made In USA predominately)
• Spark Plugs: Motorcraft SP-409 AWSF44C gapped at 0.050
• Spark Plug Wires: Borg Warner Sure-Spark CH8872SP 8mm PEP 5214
• Rotor: Motorcraft DR-374-B E6TZ-12200-F, AF30E
• Distributor Cap: BWD Z-Series C194Z
• Electrical Contacts: Permatex Dielectric Tune-up Grease 22058
• Vacuum Hosing: 7/32” ID and 13/32” OD
• Fuel Filter: Motorcraft FG800A E7DE9155AA
• Thermostat: Motorcraft RT-1139 XR3Z-8575-BA, AF30E
• Thermostat Gasket: Motorcraft RG-605 F87Z-8255-CA, I894D
• Air Filter: Fram
• PVC Valve: Motorcraft
• PVC Retainer: Motorcraft F7CZ-6A892-AA [NOTE: Made in China]
• PVC Screen: MotorCraft

Used Parts Cleaned Then Installed (spares had for 1990 Mark VII)
 ERG: Ford A35 E7AE-9F-483-A2A [vacuum port site different] {Top nut ½ inch & Bottom nut 9/16”} (hand made a gasket from 1/16” Rubberized Fiber and used Permatex Sensor-Safe Ultra Grey RTV Silicone)
 IAC: Ford E9AE-DB [electrical connection on 90 degree angle & metal body longer] (I left original gasket in place when switching out cast body w/ plunger, Made a new rubber ring for electrical switch and cast body connection as O-Ring was flattened)
 Heater Switch: Marked with 042589 was removed different number installed

Existing Parts Cleaned and Reinstalled (? = Could not read)
 Charcoal Fuel Vapor Reservoir (?)EI, E2ZE-9D653-AA, (?)5E-9C985-BA and 90 degree Rubber Elbow with 13/32” ID (Other connection port is 7/32” ID, 8 mm tapping bolt holds plastic unit to metal bracket, Two 10 mm bolts hold bracket to frame
 Electrical Switch in Fuel Vacuum Lines E4ZF-9C915-AA, D27908(?) [CRITICAL: Note which white port is closer to engine when disassembling, there is a marking plus barbed connections are offset]
 Plastic Connector: 1.5 inch long powder blue, 7/32” ID, Barbed ends, Center of straight connector has much smaller ID
 Thermostat Housing: E6AE-8592-BA (mating surfaces flattened and smoothed)

Old Work Order Information
A) Valve covers were replaced at 39,000 miles. The exterior of plug 8 is always covered with a dark colored oily goo. Channel of driver’s side valve cover by fire wall had similar condition. Have not checked it since original cleaning.
B) Plugs installed in 2004 were WRF42.
C) Technician seemed to have been learning the trade while working on this car. Visual indicators show poor refitting of panels after trouble shooting.
D) Items listed as replaced sometimes do not match what is found on vehicle. Example is wires were “replaced” in mid-90’s yet 1989 is printed on them.
E) Oil Changes were done annually. Oil grade changed from 10/30 to 10/40. Drain plugs were replaced multiple times and threads seem to be crossed. Plugs and Filter were installed with excessive force.