Advice on getting it running (1989 MGM LS 5.0L EFI 46000)

[Ringting]

I have purchased these items for when I remove the Intake Manifold to finish the fuel vacuum hosing replacement. The connection points and clips are not reachable with manifold bolted down.

FEL PRO Gasket Kits
Intake Manifold Set MS 93334 for Ford Products 302 (5.0) engines
Contains: 1 - Distributor O-Ring, 2 – Intake Manifolds, 1 – Intake Manifold Upper, 1 – Air Bypass Valve, 1 – Intake Manifold Front Seal, 1 – Intake Manifold Rear Seal

Valve Cover Set VS 13264 T for Ford Products V8 (5.0) engines
Contains: 2 – Valve Cover

What I think will be found as disassembly begins. (these are from a scraped Panther Limo I saw today)

[Ringting]

What I learned tonight is my idea of making my own EGR Gasket maybe the problem. In the Archive section I found a this:

"The gaskets that are used are designed to withstand very high temperatures. They are also made of a soft material, which will come apart very easily say, when you take the EGR off. Usually the gasket will just rip apart. Now that it's not sealing correctly, you have a large vacuum leak between the EGR, and the intake."

So if I go and buy a gasket is there anything else needed. Oh and when I pull the Intake Manifold should as many gaskets as possible be replaced, along with hoses of all shapes/sizes/purposes?

Thanks,
Craig

[91waggin]

You probably don't need to pull the lower intake manifold to fix all your vacuum leaks, since all the vacuum lines go into the upper intake manifold. It will hurt nothing to replace all the vacuum lines.

The throttle body is mounted to the upper intake by studs that run all the way through. The EGR spacer slides over the studs and is sandwiched in place by the throttle body. You can remove the upper intake with the throttle body and egr spacer attached, but since you're already this far, you may as well disassemble the whole thing.

Gaskets to replace:
Throttle body to EGR spacer
EGR spacer to upper intake (aka upper plenum)
Upper intake to lower intake
EGR valve to EGR spacer (special high temp one)
IAC to throttle body

Important note:
There are three cables attached to the throttle lever. Two of them are attached to each other, and these are the accelerator pedal and cruise control. The one by itself is the TV (throttle valve) cable that is attached to the transmission, and directly controls transmission line pressure, which controls shift points. In Ford's infinite wisdom, they decided that the end of this cable should be attached to the throttle lever with a rubber grommet, so that the cable could pop in and out easily. However, after ten years or so of hot-cold cycles, the rubber breaks down and drops the TV cable. When you accelerate without the TV cable attached, the transmission will try to jump to high gear instantly, which pretty much ruins the transmission.

Ford released a part to remedy this situation, with a brass bushing held in by a cotter pin. It shouldn't cost you more than a few bucks. Go to your local Ford stealership and ask for this part number. F3SZ-7H303-B They should have it in stock, since Mustangs suffered from the same problem.
For more information, go here:
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00052.html

Other than that, just replace every single vacuum line you come across. Take special note of the hard plastic ones; they tend to get brittle and break over time. Unfortunately, the vacuum lines varied widely from year to year, so I can't give you an exact rundown on where they are. You should have the following lines, however.

Lines for the TAB and TAD solenoids (the air injection control system). There should be red manifold vacuum lines and green controlled vacuum lines.

One line (straight manifold vacuum) for the fuel pressure regulator.

One line to the EGR control solenoid (manifold vacuum), and a line from the EGR control solenoid to the EGR valve.

A line from the neck of the upper intake to a tee on the upper intake body, and then to the PCV valve.

And one line to the body vacuum distribution block on the firewall which has the brake booster and the climate control vacuum stuff under the dash.

For the time being, I would leave the oxygen sensors (on the exhaust manifolds) alone. On these particular engine computers, the oxygen sensors don't have nearly the effect on driveability that they do on newer cars. The computer ignores the oxygen sensor until the engine enters closed loop (10 minutes of operation or engine reaches normal operating temp).

Oxygen sensor info: http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=31
ECT info: http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=28
TPS info: http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=30

The ECT dictates the mixture without input from any other sensor except MAP and TPS when the engine is cold. Even if you don't get an ECT code, check the temperature indicated by the ECT versus the temp with an actual thermometer.

[Lincolnmania]

the plug wires, cap and rotor and coil are junk mang......replace those before going any further

[91waggin]

the plug wires, cap and rotor and coil are junk mang......replace those before going any further

Look up a few posts. He said he replaced them with Motorcraft plugs and cap and Borg-warner wires and rotor.

[gadget73]

Looks like you're going about this the right way, replacing old junk and catching up on all the neglected maintenance and bad repairs over the years. You're going about this exactly how I would, fix known problems, replace bad parts, and see what happens. More often than not, its all you need to do.

The "new" plug wires in the mid 90s without new ones on the car is not a big surprise. Lots of places rip people off and sell them new things without doing the job. If its had running issues since the valve covers were done 10 years ago, don't be too surprised if you find damaged vacuum lines or wiring underneath. Its easy to get stuff caught under the valve covers or break off connectors while monkeying around in there. Just take your time and if anything looks wrong, fix it. Also, there is a ground wire at the rear of the lower intake. You should see it once the upper is off. Make sure thats present. If its busted off, it will cause you problems.


At 46k, the oxy sensors are probably fine. I wouldn't replace those unless you have some known issue. They're usually good to 100k or better.

[Ringting]

A call for knowledge rapidly Please! I have my BB with me. If someone thinks I should call them just drop me a PM. THANKS for hanging with me on this.

So I am into this job big time (up all night) and documenting the hell out of everything in order to contribute once this is done.

Right now I need to know about:

1) Cleaning metal parts. Can I just buy a case of Carb Cleaner and spray inside, outside, and basically any where that is metal?

2) What brand of Fuel Injector parts do I buy? (I am talking O-Rings, Plastic Clips, and Pintles) [No cutting costs here since I ain’t going back in, Yes I know 14 PSI]

3) What are the KEY Torque settings I must remember when putting this back together?

4) Do I buy new vacuum connector parts? [e.g. elbows, trees, boots (did I get the names correct?)]

4) What am I forgetting or overlooking?

Where are a few Pics


Can I spray Carb Cleaner into the holes?


There are carbon deposit on the gasket in the 6:00 to 9:00 area.


The gasket was NOT held in place. The bolts were not excessively tight.


Draining the oil now. Bought Mobil 1 10W30 and a Puralator Plus filter. Plugs are definitely wrong. May have to run a tap to clean up threads (worried about this).


Oh yeah, yes I may have bought some less than optimal parts however they can be switched once she runs and I am back working. Then the good poop will be installed. I really love this car. More and more every day.

Wife just shakes her head. LOL! BYE for now.

[91waggin]

A call for knowledge rapidly Please! I have my BB with me. If someone thinks I should call them just drop me a PM. THANKS for hanging with me on this.

So I am into this job big time (up all night) and documenting the hell out of everything in order to contribute once this is done.

Right now I need to know about:

1) Cleaning metal parts. Can I just buy a case of Carb Cleaner and spray inside, outside, and basically any where that is metal?

2) What brand of Fuel Injector parts do I buy? (I am talking O-Rings, Plastic Clips, and Pintles) [No cutting costs here since I ain’t going back in, Yes I know 14 PSI]

3) What are the KEY Torque settings I must remember when putting this back together?

4) Do I buy new vacuum connector parts? [e.g. elbows, trees, boots (did I get the names correct?)]

4) What am I forgetting or overlooking?

1) Carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner will work great for cleaning anything metal. They're both just heavy-duty solvents. You can get carb cleaner into the intake; it won't hurt anything. It'll make some smoke, but that's about it. I wouldn't lose any sleep over the carbon in the intake. It happens to all of them.

2)I'd guess that an o-ring is just an o-ring. I'm not sure about replacement clips and pintles, since I've never done a fuel injector service.

3)My Chilton's manual says that the upper intake bolts should be torqued to 25 lb-ft. Get the nuts holding the throttle body onto the studs fairly tight, so that the gaskets seal, but be careful because the studs like to break.

4)You probably don't need to buy new vacuum connectors unless the ones you're replacing are in bad shape.

[Ringting]

Quick Update
Thanks for the quick turn around. Caught the neighbor and was told focus on mating surfaces not internal appearance.

Just about to reinstall Driver Side Valve Cover, misplace cork gasket was source of leaking. Should I be concerned by the discoloration on 8 verses 7?


Cleaning up first of two grounds before installing cover. It is not to bad however doing it since access is easy now.



Plan to go and get Accel Fuel Injector kits as that is something mentioned in the Archives. I kind of agree with you on the O-Rings. While I am out think I will get the two sensors by 5 [access is everything]. Forget the names right now. TPS screws are over tightened so will drill them out and replace it also while rebuilding

Look for Vacuum line details in a day or two. I plan to have a drawing with colors/part numbers/lenght/connected to/etc.

[andymac0035]

Don't use a cork valvcover gasket, they don't last. Get the steel core kind.

[Ringting]

This is what I am using. The cork was removed.


I have purchased these items for when the Intake Manifold is removed to allow completing replacing fuel vacuum hosing.

FEL PRO Gasket Kits
Intake Manifold Set MS 93334 for Ford Products 302 (5.0) engines
Contains: 1 - Distributor O-Ring, 2 – Intake Manifolds, 1 – Intake Manifold Upper, 1 – Air Bypass Valve, 1 – Intake Manifold Front Seal, 1 – Intake Manifold Rear Seal

Valve Cover Set VS 13264 T for Ford Products V8 (5.0) engines
Contains: 2 – Valve Cover [Note: As advised design is steel cores covered with rubber]

[Ringting]

Waggin91,
I just read the gasket instructions [normally do not read that stuff].

The manufacturer states "Install the bolts and torque to 60 inch lbs."

What do you think?

Now I am editing this since re-reading your post. Ignore my comment above.

[gadget73]

wow, that motor is clean inside. I wouldn't worry about one rocker being darker, probably just had a little oil laying on it. Its still much cleaner looking than most are. Even the inside of the intake isn't very bad. Usually they're black as a mineshaft in there.

The ECT and ACT sensors are easily replaced with the upper intake in place. I wouldn't swap those unless they're actually bad. Its easy to test them with a voltmeter. Charts are at fordfuelinjection.com for how to meter them for proper response vs temperature.

Carb cleaner is fine, but it will eat paint so don't leave it lay on any painted surfaces. It works fine to clean off the valve covers, but don't let them sit in a bath of the stuff unless you've got some fresh paint. A wipe off with a cloth should do. I would probably not suggest flooding carb cleaner down into the lower intake though. It won't really hurt anything, but it will flood the motor and make it hard to start. It also won't do much good. Cleaning the upper and the EGR spacer out certainly won't hurt any though.

[packman]

Did you replace the coil yet. That pic you had earlier looked really crusty. Mine had small cobwebs in the electrical connector when I replaced mine.



Packman

[Ringting]

Crashing for a while. I worked all night on this. My method is slow and picky. Did not find the hard tubing today. No I have not installed a new coil yet. Once I wake up the Injectors will be scrubbed and reassembled [any tips] then everything wiped down in preparation for upper manifold installation. Oh and I must tighten to 60 foot pounds the Valve Cover bolts.

Comments on possible lapses are welcomed.

Questions
1) What happens when you F up an Injector Filter?
2) Is the hard tubing simply cut to size by me and then fitting pushed on?
3) Is there anything anyone want to see?

My folder has 50 pics in it so I will be deleting some later tonight then adding new ones.

Valve Cover Passenger Side


Cleaned up


Passenger side Ground at back of motor (look at the mirror) [9/16 nut]


Driver side Ground bolt (1/2 inch nut)


I sincerely appreciate all of the support and interest.