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    Emissions / Window

    Hello All. Couple of Q, any help is appreciated. My 91 GM is totally stock. What emissions stuff (air pump specifically) can I remove and still pass a smog inspection? GA doesn't look under the hood, just checks the tailpipe and does a check on the gas cap. I'm just looking to clean up under the hood, plus there is one clearly broken pipe near the passenger side of the engine. (I know when I put a stock Mustang 93 engine into my 66 Mustang couple, I removed all emissions stuff including the EGR valve, and the car runs great, no codes. I installed a resistor in the stock EFI wiring to 'fool' the computer that the EGR vavle was still there. I still have O2 sensors, though.)
    Also, where should I start in trying to diagnose my non-working driver's window?
    Thanks for any help, or threads you can link to, many thanks.
    1991 Grand Marquis--all stock
    1969 F-100--stock
    1966 Mustang...5.0L/AOD
    Vintage Ford lawn tractor

    #2
    There are two main causes of non-functioning windows in these cars:

    Worn bushings, gears or brushes in teh motors

    dirty/corroded switch.


    Your simplest way to start is probably to take the window switches out and clean them, sand down the contact points with 300-600 grit sandpaper, and re-try.

    Also, if hitting the door or otherwise jarring it around will sometimes fix the non-moving windows, it's probably a worn motor issue. If it will only go up (or only go down), then it's probably a switch problem. For more detailed stuff, use the search function (right below the "GMN Chat Room" text) and you'll find a lot of information on where to get parts and how to diagnose. You've stumbled on probably the most common issues with these cars electrically.

    85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
    160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
    waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

    06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

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      #3
      Leave the EGR valve. It costs you nothing and gains you a smidge of fuel economy. If they dyno test your car, it will fail for NOx without the EGR. Smog pump can go though, it does nothing really.

      window depends what exactly it does. if it goes whumpa-whumpa-whumpa and doesn't move, the bushings are dead. if it does nothing but the lights dim, the bushings have crumbled and jammed the gears. If it does squat, either the brushes are worn or the switch is dirty.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks for the replies. I'll leave the EGR alone and look at the switches.
        1991 Grand Marquis--all stock
        1969 F-100--stock
        1966 Mustang...5.0L/AOD
        Vintage Ford lawn tractor

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