hello all, hope everyone is well...let me dive right in...i was doing about 90mph on the interstate on saturday night on my way to the stripclub...my engine light turned on, and stayed on until i got there...i came out about 6 hours later, turned on the car to warm it up a bit and the engine light immediately turned back on. as i made my way back home i heard some banging and clicking coming from the driverside of the engine...i assumed my water pump is gone...been about 3-4 years since the last time it gave me any problems. can anyone confirm this? last thing i did to it was change the oil and filter....it drove fine afterwards. the day after all the banging/clicking i checked the radiator and noticed some brown gunk under the filler cap....clogged radiator perhaps? messed up thermostat? water pump shot? my electrical fan is fine, its not temperature drive, its on a switch and yes i did turn it on when i was hauling ass down the interstate. and if it matters, its a bit cold down here in texas, maybe not as freezing as you guys further up in the north, but its cold down here, so i dont know if that helps any.... any help is appreciated...let me know guys, thanks!!!
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1984 CV tudor 351W, 4bbl, 5-speed best time in the 1/8 8.39 at 80 with 1.80 60ft time.
2006 P71, 1988 Bronco II, 1986 Baby LTD(5.0 & T5 swap in progress), 1976 16' Hobie Cat, 12' AquaFinn
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2651997 UPDATED 20100826
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taps?Originally posted by Pesty351 View Post
85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)Comment
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sounds like you have a head gasket issue or some other issue with oil mixing into the anti-freeze. If you have anti freeze mixing in with the oil, then that light is probably telling you that you have low oil pressure, which means the bearings in the bottom end of the engine are fucked.
Long story short, sound like your engine needs a rebuild.
85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)Comment
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if it was the red one that may be the case.. not smart to keep flying down the interstate at 90mph when the light goes on.Originally posted by johnunit View PostGive a man a fish and he will be fed for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will promptly forget that he once did not know, and proceed to call anyone who asks, a n00b and flame them on the boards for being stupid.Comment
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The red replace engine light comes on when you've massively overheated the engine, or you've lost oil pressure. Ignoring that is a sure fire way to have to put a new motor in. Since it came on cold, I'd say you lost oil pressure. The clattering and banging agree with that. Since you've now driven it a fair distance with no oil pressure, the engine is almost certainly destroyed. Time to start shopping for another motor.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it worksComment
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I agree that it wasnt smart to be doing 90mph but i wasnt about to let a lil POS civic ricer cut me off...anyways, if im still driving it, would the banging still be constant? Would the light remain on? Its currently off and no more banging, i am driving it and its not doing anything anymore, you could say its back to normal...or is it a sign that it will give out soon? I can check the head gasket this weekend as well as drain the oil again and check for antifreeze there...but there are no visible water/antifreeze leaks...unless of course its leaking on the inside...Comment
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hey man the first thing i do when an engine light comes on is check for codes.My wife and I.sigpicComment
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I would for sure say the clicking is lifters not gettin sufficiant oil. When you did the oil change, are you sure you used the correct filter? My brothers Audi had the wrong filter on it and the light came on then it started to click and clatter. He took it to the dealer and they said it was the wrong filter and it was impeding proper oil flow. They put the correct filter on and it was golden. The reason it might be quite now is that the engine is not pumping the oil as fast as it was when you were going 90 mph to your titty bar.-2004 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor - Daily Driver - 17" Bullitt's, 235/55/17 Goodyear Eagles, Ex-NH State Police, best 1/4 mile time; 15.3 @ 90 mph
-1987 Crown Victoria 2-Door - Project - 90k miles, Summit chambered muffler, Sunpro gauges, parked since 2010, fate tbd
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the red light has nothing to do with codes. Its coolant over 250 F, or oil pressure below like 5 psi. Nothing else makes it come on. Either you overheated it, or you lost oil pressure. Noises point towards an oil problem. You can change the oil, but don't be overly surprised if it comes out looking screwed up. If it looks like the glitter factory exploded, you'll have your answer. Problems like that don't fix themselves, so I'd be finding out exactly what happened and planning for how to deal with it.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it worksComment
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Hmm.... let me try this again.Originally posted by johnunit View Post
if that doesn't work try this
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/b...rari_61454.htm1984 CV tudor 351W, 4bbl, 5-speed best time in the 1/8 8.39 at 80 with 1.80 60ft time.
2006 P71, 1988 Bronco II, 1986 Baby LTD(5.0 & T5 swap in progress), 1976 16' Hobie Cat, 12' AquaFinn
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2651997 UPDATED 20100826
sigpicComment
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the link works. Awesome stuff.
85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)Comment
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Time for an H.O. swap?1991 LTD P72 351 W Restored Century Police (Ongoing Project) Sergeant Vic.
It's a dog eat dog world and I'm wearing milk bone underwear.Comment
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well gentlemen, problem has been solved...i was definately thinking that i was going to have to buy a new engine for my ride...but that wasnt the case. i got under the hood and flushed the radiator, changed the thermostat, new hoses, and new(not remanufactured) water pump. i wanted to be sure!!! so i fired up the ride and no more engine light, no more clattering and clanking. checked the oil also to see if "the glitter factory" exploded and nothing....no antifreeze/water in it either. i even took it for another 90mph test drive on I-10 and nothing.
when i took off the water pump and flushed the radiator brown/orange sludge poured out...not good! so im guessing that may have been part of the problem...anyways...thanks to all for the help!Comment
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If the light flickers on you again while on the highway, your fanclutch needs replacing as well.
Alex.Comment
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