Self-Test Results... any pointers?

[Freshmeat]

I'm finally getting around to diagnosing my loss of power after driving around a bit. I ran a KOEO/KOER test but I'm not sure any of it is applicable to this sort of issue. Here are the results:

KOEO was:

87 (fuel pump primary circuit failure)
-WTF is this anyway??

33 (EGR valve opening not detected)
-Can this cause problems? I haven't touched the EGR valve

KOER was:

12 (cannot control RPM during engine running self-test high RPM check)
-WTF would cause that?

44 (secondary air inoperative right side)
-Air pump belt isn't installed

94 (secondary air inoperative left side)
-Again, no air pump belt

74 (Brake On/Off circuit failure)
-I didn't hit my brakes during the test; was pretty unaware I was supposed to.

[gadget73]

87 usualy means there is no fuel pump relay or a bad fuel pump relay. If the pump is working, i wouldn't worry about this. Its a stored code, could be from some previous failure.

33 is usually a vacuum problem on the egr circuit, either a broken vacuum line or no vacuum to the regulator. Not a big deal, and it won't cause you any real problems.

12 - stuck IAC or vacuum leak, or the "idle screw" cranked in too far.
the rest you can ignore.

[88grandmarq]

clear the codes by pulling the battery cable and stepping on the brake pedal, then connect the battery cable and drive the snot out of the car, see what re-sets.

code 12 and 33 will be the ones you want to see if they re-set.

I would also agree that code 12 and 33 can be caused by vacuum leaks, check the system for any leaks.

[Freshmeat]

Okay- reset the codes, same codes for KOER (and still getting that 87).
Found a cracked vacuum line and repaired it... reset codes... still same codes on KOER.

That said, earlier when I drove it around I couldn't get it to act up. I'd still like to get these codes cleared up, but it does seem to be running okay. Any further suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[88grandmarq]

try resetting codes and don't drive it , see if codes are still there.

If they are..... you may doing something wrong, there is a problem with the ECM or the code reader you are using is storing the codes to internal memory.

you may want to find a friend/neighbor/shop that has an actual scan tool, force the codes to re-set with scan tool.

[Freshmeat]

I didn't drive it after resetting the codes. KOEO codes changed- went to 87 and 15.

[88grandmarq]

Yikes... code 15 is NOT good.

15) ECM read only memory test failed (O)
ECM keep alive memory test failed (C)

[Freshmeat]

That was only immediately after I disconnected the battery and didn't show up again on a subsequent test.

[88grandmarq]

are you leaving the code scanner connected all the time ?

[gadget73]

15 you'll get if you unhook the battery and don't give it enough time to learn anything. It takes at least a start cycle to make that one go away. If it hangs around a lot, then there are issues.

[Freshmeat]

are you leaving the code scanner connected all the time ?

I don't have a code scanner; I'm jumping the test harness to chassis and counting the CEL flashes, as instructed by www.fordfuelinjection.com

I'm still absolutely stumped on this.

Here's what I've found:

KOEO:
TPS REF (orange) is getting 4.98v
TPS SIG (green) is getting .15v at idle, 1.35v at WOT

Great, bad TPS. Swapped it. Twice. Same thing.

I'm getting zero resistance from sensor to ECM plug for both "hot" wires on TPS.

I swapped to a 1990 Mark VII (HO) ECM, just to see if it was my ECM because the electronics are the same... but it's doing the same thing still.

Is there anything that could be triggering the ECM into some sort of limp mode where it's going to shut down potential TPS input? I'm completely stumped. I've worked on it a little bit here and there in my spare time but I'm tired of it.

Trouble codes:

KOEO:

87- Primary Fuel Pump Circuit Failure
11- System Pass

KOER:

12- RPM Not Within Self Test Upper Limit (I lost the grommet to my cruise control servo and didn't seal it properly)
21- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Out Of Self Test Range (Engine was cold; would that cause this?)
95- Fuel Pump Circuit Open-PCM To Motor Ground (WTF?)
44- Secondary Air System Inoperative (I cut the belt to my smog pump)
33- EGR Valve Opening Not Detected
13- RPM Not Within Self Test Lower Limit (Again on the cruise control servo)
74- Brake On/Off Circuit Open–Not During Self Test

[GM_Guy]

A lot of your codes, if you have not driven the car are being set due to no relearning as mentioned. 21, engine needs to be up to operating temperature before running the test, so if you do it cold, you get a false code. 74 is when you need to press the brake pedal at a certain point in the KOER test.
87. have you disconnected your fuel pump relay for any reason? Or a kill switch? If not, you may have an intermittant fuel pump relay, and possibly ecm power relay (given the 15 you had earlier). 33 is a maybe code. I've had a 33 since the day I bought the car over 10 years ago-still passes e-tests so I don't care.

Check your wiring. Any pinches, rat bites, torn insulation, etc. Check that all the connections are fully seated and not corroded (ie: tps, fuel pump and ecm relays).

Alex.

[86VickyLX]

Take the TPS off, and turn it with a screwdriver, look to see if you get your readings then. At closed throttle, the sensor signal should be about 0.9V. The computer wouldn't change the voltage readings on the sensor. It'll still send 5 volts reference, recieve a signal from the sensor. The ground should be provided through the harness. That wire for reference voltage is also shared with MAP, and the EGR solenoid. Make sure that you still have a Ground for the sensor.

[Freshmeat]

A lot of your codes, if you have not driven the car are being set due to no relearning as mentioned. 21, engine needs to be up to operating temperature before running the test, so if you do it cold, you get a false code. 74 is when you need to press the brake pedal at a certain point in the KOER test.
87. have you disconnected your fuel pump relay for any reason? Or a kill switch? If not, you may have an intermittant fuel pump relay, and possibly ecm power relay (given the 15 you had earlier). 33 is a maybe code. I've had a 33 since the day I bought the car over 10 years ago-still passes e-tests so I don't care.

Check your wiring. Any pinches, rat bites, torn insulation, etc. Check that all the connections are fully seated and not corroded (ie: tps, fuel pump and ecm relays).

Alex.

I've been through every plug I can find and cleaned them all- can't find anywhere that a rat chewed through any wiring. Also no tears, pinches, etc.

Take the TPS off, and turn it with a screwdriver, look to see if you get your readings then. At closed throttle, the sensor signal should be about 0.9V. The computer wouldn't change the voltage readings on the sensor. It'll still send 5 volts reference, recieve a signal from the sensor. The ground should be provided through the harness. That wire for reference voltage is also shared with MAP, and the EGR solenoid. Make sure that you still have a Ground for the sensor.

With the TPS off it's still showing the same results. It's getting 4.98v from the ECM but hardly anything is going back to it. If the voltage is shared with the MAP and EGR, could an issue with either of those cause the problems I'm experiencing with the TPS?

I'm pretty sure my next step is to get a wiring diagram for this car. Anyone know where I can download one for free/cheap?

[gadget73]

Unplug all the rest of the sensors and see what you get on the TPS, though since the 5v line is approx 5v, I'd go out on a limb and say that isn't your problem. The only thing that comes to mind is checking how the tps is installed. They have those little tabs that have to catch on the top of the throttle shaft. If one is broken, it will give you funny readings.



http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=6 is basically accurate as far as the wiring goes, though obviously no MAF on your car. Actual color for color wiring you'd need the EVTM for. When I get home I can scan you the 86 EVTM, but a scan from a 90 manual would be best