Not sure if it'd be best here, but perhaps it could be put elsewhere as a sticky and a reference guide.
I'll start, with recollections of owning the ones I have, that even today I miss; and still admire the savvy owners today that own them.
I notice that a HUGE proportion of Box Panther owners flock to this site, and perhaps, others could chime in with tips.
Here's mine, followed by someone else's, that just this one time I am cross posting. (From someone new looking at an '87 Grand Marquis with 35k for sale for 2300.)
~~~~~
I LOVE the box panthers. I have two owned two Crown Victorias, an '82 and an '88, both of bought in the mid 1980's and drove them for happily and very and proudly for years. In fact the '88, a beautiful silver one, was used as my personal wedding limousine in San Francisco in 1994!
I even drove both of them on vacation across the border into Mexico, where the Grand Marquis was sold but with "Ford" (and not "Mercury") badging in these years, where the box panthers were known as "Mexican Cadillacs" back then.
Dollar per mile, the cheapest and most reliable cars of the all the ones I've owned, since the first one I bought (back in 1967) to this year, which brought me back to the Grand Marquis, the last iteratiom of the wonderful panthers, this year again. HAD to have one of the last ones, before it was too late to grab a new or near new one.
Nothing really about them gave me trouble, ever, that I can think of.
But my '82 reputedly had a poorly rated variable venturi carb system that was said to be no good. But mine never gave me trouble. By 1986 the 5.0 V8 had the EFI and it was super.
Spend a couple hundred bucks and install a dual exhaust on the 1987 if one isn't there. You'll enjoy the extra power.
If the car is equipped with the "Trailer tow" option package, it already has the dual exhaust, a peppier rear end (3.55 maybe) trailer wiring for the tail lights, HD radiator and transmission cooler, and ful size spare tire, so with those you are ahead of the game, some of those things come with the Police Interceptors of that Crown Vic Police Interceptors.
Another great idea, and part of the trailer tow package, as mentioned, is to fit a full size spare tire and matching wheel, on the trunk shelf, where the Interceptors have them. A neat addition, and dirt cheap to do, just buy a new matching tire and wheel, and it bolts right on.
Aside from the awful "Joan Claybrook" 85 mph speedometers on them, and no gauges, or tach, they are wonderful cars, great gas mileage, roomy, huge trunks, BOD safety and real metal bumpers, repairable by any dribble-chin corner gas station mechanic, and great visibility out the all the windows; what's not to like?
If you are VERY lucky, the car will have the little vent windows on the front doors; both my Vic's did, they were a stand alone option, and they look and function well.
I liked especially the carriage lights on the Grand Marquis box sedans of the area, definately more upscale from the Crown Vics that did not offer them even as an option.
The optional turbine wheels that were standard on the LS ones, looked nice, but the steelies and hubcaps standard on the GS '87's looked good and were lots easier to keep clean especially on the front wheels where brake dust builds up quick.
$2300 - $2800 is a good price for one like that, considering what value those cars are for the money. They cost about $17,000 - to $18,000 for a new one back in 1987, if my memory serves, and so now, they have depreciated to almost nothing, so if this one runs out well, its whole life is ahead, and theylook snazzy too, even over 20 years old.
This is an '85 LS from the movie "To Live and Die in LA" (1985)
Also, ask the dealer for an OASIS report. As I recall, these Panthers had a factory recall of some kind, I think maybe something about the ignition. IF your car never had it performed, take it to the dealer, and have it done. It's totally free....
Some more general tips:
1. interior... fading, rips, tears, fit & finish of parts, condition of carpeting, checking for any wear & full functions of seats, headrests, windows, anything & everything... period.
2.exterior... paint & body condition... full inspection for rust, dings and fully functioning sunroof, doors and shape of wheels & tires, front end parts, and if any leaks are present.
3.engine... leaks, has it been steam-cleaned?... compression check, fluids checked, rust under hood?
4.driving... shifts ok, no smoke at tailpipe when cold & upon acceleration, A/C works & is cold, brakes in good shape, any squeaks, rattles?
5. Are there records with it to give you an idea of its servicing?
6.Are you having it shipped, or are you close enough to get there & then drive it home? Use their recommendation on shipping and check the back of The Star for companies that ship cars. Sometimes, it may be easier & cheaper to fly there & drive it home.
7.Try to speak to the former owner... know where it came from & why it was being sold.
And some more:
..
You'll want a PPI (Prepurchase inspection) for sure.
Before going that far, check: Engine and transmission oil. Both should be clean. Look at the air filter element. Should be clean. Check coolant hoses and water pump for signs of leaks, band-aid repairs. There should not be oil plastered on anything. Engine compartments on these cars stay quite clean. Look underneath for oil. Some light seepage at rear main seal is normal (black on bottom of bell housing) but should be no great quantity. Transmission should be dry (no transmission oil on bell housing or at rear). Rear axle final drive (differential) should be dry. Start car with closed throttle. Should start right up on 8 cylinders, rev up, and settle down to a smooth idle. Any "clack-clack" from the valve train is a sign of serious trouble (Camshafts). Run away from this. Transmission should engage in both forward and reverse smoothly. Pause in neutral before shifting direction. You should feel engagement start immediately, and lock-in in about a second. Steering should be tight. Brakes should have firm pedal.
1. Check for abnormal tire wear. (alignment? loose suspension parts? check rears as well as fronts).
2. Drive car. Shifts should be positive, not "soggy." Try kickback/kickdown (downshift on throttle opening). Should not run away when shifting. I think the '90 still is second gear start. Check kickdown to first, 1-2 upshift may be abrupt.
3. Check steering---should go straight ahead and not drift to one side; wheel should be centered. Go over some bumps and listen for loose parts (open the driver's window).
4. Check brakes---no pull from any wheel on modest stops. Do a panic stop from 25 mph. (warn passengers, check for traffic behind) to check
5. On braking hard, no wheel should lock up, and stops should be true without pulling.
6. Check cruise control. Should engage positively above 40 km/h, accelerate and decelerate smoothly, hold speed without hunting (not too difficult to fix, but famous for giving up).
7. Check heater/AC controls. Open hood, put on normal . Dial temp down and check that A/C clutch engages. Put on EC and check that clutch disengages. On cooling check that air comes from center and both side vents. Set control for heat and check that center vent works as well as side ones.
8. Work all the seat adjuster knobs and make sure that all the parts operate. Headrest up/down, seat back forward/back, seat rear and seat front (independent---push pull the ends of the knob) both go up and down. Repeat on both sides, and check that rear seat adjuster functions.
9. Check steering wheel for play and slop. Blow horn. Check operation of all lights and turn signals.
10. Check all window switches for up-down without grinding or binding.
11. Check radio and cassette player if so equipped. .
12. Check dash panel warning lights---should be lit with engine stopped, all go out when started..
13. If you feel it passes these preliminary checks, then take it to a pro and spend some money to get a proper pre-purchase inspection. Most pros will just look at the car and listen to it running, and decide whether to go further. Don't be chagrined if your pro looks at it and declares it a "toad----there is a certain 6th sense "savvy" that one gets from doing this sort of thing regularly.
14.The most expensive fix is camshafts and leaking head gaskets.. Examine the cam lobes and the rockers and examine the head gasket parting lines for oil leaks during the pre purchase inspection..
And nearly finally...
1. Check floor pans, trunk and back seat (if installed) or back access panel on floor for rust. Don't be afraid to pull up the carpet a bit to check. If the foam carpet padding is wet, it wasn't "garage kept" (doesn't sound like that'll be a problem)
2. Check steering free play
3. Rotors and pad of course (maybe the safety stuff should be prioritized)
4. Will need new tires if they haven't been replaced in the last couple of years, even if they have tread remaining.
5. Check under battery for corrosion of the box.
6. Put the hammer down on the highway and look for smoke, let it get good and warmed up first.
7. Check out the muffler. If it's original, it may be wearing thin.
8. Check for leaks after the highway run. . . .
9. Thorough check of all rubber door, window, trunk seals. They may look good, but may be dried out and non functional.
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Also, from " ford man " the following buyers advice:
Thoroughly check out the transmission. Get it up to freeway speeds if possible. Look for rust everywhere. Registration current? no back fees? Any maintence history or owner history is helpful. Any recent maintence done would be a plus... Test everything- ac, heater, power windows, radio etc, turn signals. Bring a blanket or piece of cardboard to lay on and look underneath the car for oil leaks and rust etc. Verify for yourself the mileage and condition. Tires ok? How old are they?
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Anybody else have comments or who would like to add to this? Maybe it could be edited and moved someplace for easy access and reference, as don on some other car forums, as a buyers guide?
I'll start, with recollections of owning the ones I have, that even today I miss; and still admire the savvy owners today that own them.
I notice that a HUGE proportion of Box Panther owners flock to this site, and perhaps, others could chime in with tips.
Here's mine, followed by someone else's, that just this one time I am cross posting. (From someone new looking at an '87 Grand Marquis with 35k for sale for 2300.)
~~~~~
I LOVE the box panthers. I have two owned two Crown Victorias, an '82 and an '88, both of bought in the mid 1980's and drove them for happily and very and proudly for years. In fact the '88, a beautiful silver one, was used as my personal wedding limousine in San Francisco in 1994!
I even drove both of them on vacation across the border into Mexico, where the Grand Marquis was sold but with "Ford" (and not "Mercury") badging in these years, where the box panthers were known as "Mexican Cadillacs" back then.
Dollar per mile, the cheapest and most reliable cars of the all the ones I've owned, since the first one I bought (back in 1967) to this year, which brought me back to the Grand Marquis, the last iteratiom of the wonderful panthers, this year again. HAD to have one of the last ones, before it was too late to grab a new or near new one.
Nothing really about them gave me trouble, ever, that I can think of.
But my '82 reputedly had a poorly rated variable venturi carb system that was said to be no good. But mine never gave me trouble. By 1986 the 5.0 V8 had the EFI and it was super.
Spend a couple hundred bucks and install a dual exhaust on the 1987 if one isn't there. You'll enjoy the extra power.
If the car is equipped with the "Trailer tow" option package, it already has the dual exhaust, a peppier rear end (3.55 maybe) trailer wiring for the tail lights, HD radiator and transmission cooler, and ful size spare tire, so with those you are ahead of the game, some of those things come with the Police Interceptors of that Crown Vic Police Interceptors.
Another great idea, and part of the trailer tow package, as mentioned, is to fit a full size spare tire and matching wheel, on the trunk shelf, where the Interceptors have them. A neat addition, and dirt cheap to do, just buy a new matching tire and wheel, and it bolts right on.
Aside from the awful "Joan Claybrook" 85 mph speedometers on them, and no gauges, or tach, they are wonderful cars, great gas mileage, roomy, huge trunks, BOD safety and real metal bumpers, repairable by any dribble-chin corner gas station mechanic, and great visibility out the all the windows; what's not to like?
If you are VERY lucky, the car will have the little vent windows on the front doors; both my Vic's did, they were a stand alone option, and they look and function well.
I liked especially the carriage lights on the Grand Marquis box sedans of the area, definately more upscale from the Crown Vics that did not offer them even as an option.
The optional turbine wheels that were standard on the LS ones, looked nice, but the steelies and hubcaps standard on the GS '87's looked good and were lots easier to keep clean especially on the front wheels where brake dust builds up quick.
$2300 - $2800 is a good price for one like that, considering what value those cars are for the money. They cost about $17,000 - to $18,000 for a new one back in 1987, if my memory serves, and so now, they have depreciated to almost nothing, so if this one runs out well, its whole life is ahead, and theylook snazzy too, even over 20 years old.
This is an '85 LS from the movie "To Live and Die in LA" (1985)
Also, ask the dealer for an OASIS report. As I recall, these Panthers had a factory recall of some kind, I think maybe something about the ignition. IF your car never had it performed, take it to the dealer, and have it done. It's totally free....
Some more general tips:
1. interior... fading, rips, tears, fit & finish of parts, condition of carpeting, checking for any wear & full functions of seats, headrests, windows, anything & everything... period.
2.exterior... paint & body condition... full inspection for rust, dings and fully functioning sunroof, doors and shape of wheels & tires, front end parts, and if any leaks are present.
3.engine... leaks, has it been steam-cleaned?... compression check, fluids checked, rust under hood?
4.driving... shifts ok, no smoke at tailpipe when cold & upon acceleration, A/C works & is cold, brakes in good shape, any squeaks, rattles?
5. Are there records with it to give you an idea of its servicing?
6.Are you having it shipped, or are you close enough to get there & then drive it home? Use their recommendation on shipping and check the back of The Star for companies that ship cars. Sometimes, it may be easier & cheaper to fly there & drive it home.
7.Try to speak to the former owner... know where it came from & why it was being sold.
And some more:
..
You'll want a PPI (Prepurchase inspection) for sure.
Before going that far, check: Engine and transmission oil. Both should be clean. Look at the air filter element. Should be clean. Check coolant hoses and water pump for signs of leaks, band-aid repairs. There should not be oil plastered on anything. Engine compartments on these cars stay quite clean. Look underneath for oil. Some light seepage at rear main seal is normal (black on bottom of bell housing) but should be no great quantity. Transmission should be dry (no transmission oil on bell housing or at rear). Rear axle final drive (differential) should be dry. Start car with closed throttle. Should start right up on 8 cylinders, rev up, and settle down to a smooth idle. Any "clack-clack" from the valve train is a sign of serious trouble (Camshafts). Run away from this. Transmission should engage in both forward and reverse smoothly. Pause in neutral before shifting direction. You should feel engagement start immediately, and lock-in in about a second. Steering should be tight. Brakes should have firm pedal.
1. Check for abnormal tire wear. (alignment? loose suspension parts? check rears as well as fronts).
2. Drive car. Shifts should be positive, not "soggy." Try kickback/kickdown (downshift on throttle opening). Should not run away when shifting. I think the '90 still is second gear start. Check kickdown to first, 1-2 upshift may be abrupt.
3. Check steering---should go straight ahead and not drift to one side; wheel should be centered. Go over some bumps and listen for loose parts (open the driver's window).
4. Check brakes---no pull from any wheel on modest stops. Do a panic stop from 25 mph. (warn passengers, check for traffic behind) to check
5. On braking hard, no wheel should lock up, and stops should be true without pulling.
6. Check cruise control. Should engage positively above 40 km/h, accelerate and decelerate smoothly, hold speed without hunting (not too difficult to fix, but famous for giving up).
7. Check heater/AC controls. Open hood, put on normal . Dial temp down and check that A/C clutch engages. Put on EC and check that clutch disengages. On cooling check that air comes from center and both side vents. Set control for heat and check that center vent works as well as side ones.
8. Work all the seat adjuster knobs and make sure that all the parts operate. Headrest up/down, seat back forward/back, seat rear and seat front (independent---push pull the ends of the knob) both go up and down. Repeat on both sides, and check that rear seat adjuster functions.
9. Check steering wheel for play and slop. Blow horn. Check operation of all lights and turn signals.
10. Check all window switches for up-down without grinding or binding.
11. Check radio and cassette player if so equipped. .
12. Check dash panel warning lights---should be lit with engine stopped, all go out when started..
13. If you feel it passes these preliminary checks, then take it to a pro and spend some money to get a proper pre-purchase inspection. Most pros will just look at the car and listen to it running, and decide whether to go further. Don't be chagrined if your pro looks at it and declares it a "toad----there is a certain 6th sense "savvy" that one gets from doing this sort of thing regularly.
14.The most expensive fix is camshafts and leaking head gaskets.. Examine the cam lobes and the rockers and examine the head gasket parting lines for oil leaks during the pre purchase inspection..
And nearly finally...
1. Check floor pans, trunk and back seat (if installed) or back access panel on floor for rust. Don't be afraid to pull up the carpet a bit to check. If the foam carpet padding is wet, it wasn't "garage kept" (doesn't sound like that'll be a problem)
2. Check steering free play
3. Rotors and pad of course (maybe the safety stuff should be prioritized)
4. Will need new tires if they haven't been replaced in the last couple of years, even if they have tread remaining.
5. Check under battery for corrosion of the box.
6. Put the hammer down on the highway and look for smoke, let it get good and warmed up first.
7. Check out the muffler. If it's original, it may be wearing thin.
8. Check for leaks after the highway run. . . .
9. Thorough check of all rubber door, window, trunk seals. They may look good, but may be dried out and non functional.
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Also, from " ford man " the following buyers advice:
Thoroughly check out the transmission. Get it up to freeway speeds if possible. Look for rust everywhere. Registration current? no back fees? Any maintence history or owner history is helpful. Any recent maintence done would be a plus... Test everything- ac, heater, power windows, radio etc, turn signals. Bring a blanket or piece of cardboard to lay on and look underneath the car for oil leaks and rust etc. Verify for yourself the mileage and condition. Tires ok? How old are they?
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Anybody else have comments or who would like to add to this? Maybe it could be edited and moved someplace for easy access and reference, as don on some other car forums, as a buyers guide?
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