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    spark plug wire testing?

    can you test spark plug wires with a multimeter?


    I have the 9mm ford racing wires on my 1990 and they've been great but my ignition parts aren't lasting as long as they should. I used blue streak products for the cap/rotor and have only gotten maybe 4 months out of 'em. Last set I used all Motorcraft and got a good bit longer.


    questions:

    2 - would my car running rich as a result of aging sensors (ACT, ECT, HEGO) have done this to my ignition parts? I also had the PCV system start to clog up on me and send oil into the TB via the breather tube on the valve cover. I know oil and running rich can foul spark plugs, but, will these spark plugs screw up everything else in the chain of ignition command?


    2 - can I use m voltmeter to test my wires? There are no cracks in them at all and all of the boots look fine but I want to make sure when I order new tune up parts this week. I also am wary of getting blue streak products again BUT if this can be attributed to something besides part quality.

    3 - how long do ignition coils last on these wonderful machines? i've never replaced mine - should i?


    thanks guys
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    #2
    I posted this in the wrong spot. someone fix it!
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    Comment


      #3
      and if a mod could re title the thread to something more apropriate
      sigpic


      - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

      - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

      - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

      Comment


        #4
        Off hand I don't recall the exact specs but plug wires can be checked using the Ohm setting on your multimeter.

        I'll see if I can find some specs when I get to work.
        Current stable:
        1984 Ford LTD Crown Vic
        1994 GMC Jimmy 4x4
        1972 Volkswagen Camper Bus
        2000 Ford Windstar

        Comment


          #5
          Stock wires are around 7000 ohms or less per foot. Thats factory specs not sure about 9mm wires.
          Current stable:
          1984 Ford LTD Crown Vic
          1994 GMC Jimmy 4x4
          1972 Volkswagen Camper Bus
          2000 Ford Windstar

          Comment


            #6
            I also like to check them for leakage. Easiest way to do this is to run the engine in a very dark place and look for blue or purple spots around the wires. That indicates the insulation is breaking down and leaking. Misting some water on the wires will amplify the effect.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
              I also like to check them for leakage. Easiest way to do this is to run the engine in a very dark place and look for blue or purple spots around the wires. That indicates the insulation is breaking down and leaking. Misting some water on the wires will amplify the effect.

              yeah, I "tested" them by running the car at night and looking under the hood. Took the distributor condom off, let the car start cold, no sparks or arcs. I took it for a drive and came home and checked again in case the effect would be more noticeable after reaching operating temp. Still no arcs or anything.


              the wires could stand to be cleaned, though...they've gotten a bit dirty but i checked all of 'em and there's no cracks or chafing
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

              Comment


                #8
                My multimeter doesn't give me any settings that are recommended to check plug wires.

                20M
                200K
                2K
                200
                sigpic


                - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
                  yeah, I "tested" them by running the car at night and looking under the hood. Took the distributor condom off, let the car start cold, no sparks or arcs. I took it for a drive and came home and checked again in case the effect would be more noticeable after reaching operating temp. Still no arcs or anything.


                  the wires could stand to be cleaned, though...they've gotten a bit dirty but i checked all of 'em and there's no cracks or chafing
                  water bottle with a spray nozzle. Spray the wires in a dark place, so you can see sparks. Alot of ignition stuff gets really funky when it's wet. So if there's a problem it'll most likely show up at that time.

                  Running rich is not going to hurt your ignition components, it's easier on the system to fire rich mixtures than to fire lean mixtures.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    You need to know how many ohms per feed is correct, and multiply that by the number of feet to figure out whats a proper resistance. 200k is probably the right scale, but iunno.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                    Comment

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