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    Oil Plugs

    Hello, I have a lil problem, someone used a impact on both my oil drain plugs, now they are half stripped and leak oil, I have found two types of replacment plugs one has a t-shaped anchor that goes into the pan a tightens with a screw in the middle, the other are self cutting self tapping oversized plugs, now theses seem to be the ticket but before I use them I would like to know have any of you had this issue? my largest conern in using the self tappers would be the possibilty of metal shavings geting into the motor.
    Also does the hose from the oil fill on the valve cover have to be conected to the throttle body for the engine to breath? what if its blocked off?

    #2
    Originally posted by 89crownlx View Post
    Hello, I have a lil problem, someone used a impact on both my oil drain plugs, now they are half stripped and leak oil, I have found two types of replacment plugs one has a t-shaped anchor that goes into the pan a tightens with a screw in the middle, the other are self cutting self tapping oversized plugs, now theses seem to be the ticket but before I use them I would like to know have any of you had this issue? my largest conern in using the self tappers would be the possibilty of metal shavings geting into the motor.
    Also does the hose from the oil fill on the valve cover have to be conected to the throttle body for the engine to breath? what if its blocked off?
    Do not let whoever put an impact on your drain plugs touch the car again.

    Someone else can address the metal in oil concern better than I but a set of magnetic drain plugs might be a good idea.

    The hose from the valve cover has to be circulated back into the intake somehow, connected to a vacuum source...the easiest one is the nipple on the throttle body that it's already connected to.
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

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      #3
      Ha! I have a friend at a ford dealer who had people coming in all the time. There was a model that had a cast aluminum drain pan, and there was a jiffy lube not far away that was cracking them all the time with impacts
      Yours just stripped, because we have molded/stamped steel pans; but if we had a CAST pan, it would have cracked.

      I've never heard about the self tappers doing that-- presumably the pickup screen and the oil filter take care of real shavings.
      In fact, the plugs are made to be softer than the pan itself. When I stripped mine from overtightening, the threads had broken off of the plug/bolt-- the pan's tapped threads were still fine.
      Have a looksee. Are you sure your pan isn't still good, and you can't just find another stock plug, rather than the oversized self tapping one?

      Comment


        #4
        Yeah I will check the threads and see if it is just the plugs that are stripped its cold and snowy and I had to have oil in the car so I'll look when I do the oil again.
        So the hose from the oil fill on the VC to the TB serves no purpose, Mine is currently blocked off on both the fill and the TB, just wondered if it should be hooked up with a new hose?

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by 89crownlx View Post
          Yeah I will check the threads and see if it is just the plugs that are stripped its cold and snowy and I had to have oil in the car so I'll look when I do the oil again.
          So the hose from the oil fill on the VC to the TB serves no purpose, Mine is currently blocked off on both the fill and the TB, just wondered if it should be hooked up with a new hose?
          It should be hooked up. If it's blocked off then your crank case is gonna be in a vacuum which is bad. You don't want it pressurized or in a vacuum. Hook the hose back up.

          Replace the PCV screen grommet and Valve too, I bet whoever had it before you blocked that line off cause they were getting oil in the Throttly body due to pressure build up.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
            It should be hooked up. If it's blocked off then your crank case is gonna be in a vacuum which is bad. You don't want it pressurized or in a vacuum. Hook the hose back up.

            Replace the PCV screen grommet and Valve too, I bet whoever had it before you blocked that line off cause they were getting oil in the Throttly body due to pressure build up.


            good call....you probably won't see the grommet because of crud, but the grommet is what the valve actually rests in, and the screen is underneath all of that in the hole. Usually need to drive a long screw into the screen and pull it out.
            sigpic


            - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

            - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

            - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

            Comment


              #7
              most of the time if the throttle body is getting filled with oil, the PCV system is not working. Replace the screen, grommet, and valve and I'd bet you it will stop doing that.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

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