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    Timing cover pitting

    Here is a picture of my timing cover, and the pitting on the coolant jacket. It was leaking into that little valley behind the timing cover on both sides, a common issue. I bought a Dorman (Part# 635-102) replacement but it does not fit without extensive modifications (has provisions and holes drilled for mechanical fuel pump and front dipstick tube and crank seal hole is too big) and it's made in Mexico out of poor quality metal (had pitting already) Thinking I will stick with my stock one, after some JB Weld and flat file it should be fine.

    Side note, part is obsolete from ford and was $477 last time it was sold

    Here are pictures of the crank seal hole differences between the Dorman (left) and the Ford (right) one:



    Also you can see the provision for the mech. fuel pump is there so you'd have to make a custom cover and seal it with a gasket and 2 bolts. Also you would have to seal the hole for the dipstick tube, not shown here, but bet if you screwed a plug in there that the cheap metal would crack.

    Last edited by 89LincolnTWNcar; 03-02-2011, 06:45 PM.
    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

    #2
    I am changing the cover on mine within the next couple months. If you still need one, you can have that one.

    Otherwise, you can find them on Ebay, etc. Latemodel Restopration Supply sells one for like $60, with the rear dispstick (no hole in the cover), the front mounted seal, with or without the mechanical pump boss.

    I am going to a mechanical pump, and am usign the cover off of an '88 police cruiser, with the 351. I was going to use an older cover (plug the disptick hole), but I like the front mount seal better.
    **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
    **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
    **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
    **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

    Comment


      #3
      yeah, that pitting is pretty severe, however it may be usable. use a file and make it as flat as possible, an extra dab of silicone in the bad spots along with the proper paper gasket should seal it adequately. it is important that you use the proper torque on the water pump bolts when you put it back together, over tightening the bolts will distort the cover and "squish" the gasket out, making it leak.
      2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
      89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
      88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


      I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by 88grandmarq View Post
        yeah, that pitting is pretty severe, however it may be usable. use a file and make it as flat as possible, an extra dab of silicone in the bad spots along with the proper paper gasket should seal it adequately. it is important that you use the proper torque on the water pump bolts when you put it back together, over tightening the bolts will distort the cover and "squish" the gasket out, making it leak.
        Yes, and that is what the engine builder did not do when the engine was built, the manual says something like 23ft/lbs and I know he put much more than that. I also am cleaning all the thread holes and all the water pump stud-bolts threads too. Am going to JB weld just a tiny bit to make it less severe, then file and install with a new gasket.
        1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by P72Ford View Post
          I am changing the cover on mine within the next couple months. If you still need one, you can have that one.

          Otherwise, you can find them on Ebay, etc. Latemodel Restopration Supply sells one for like $60, with the rear dispstick (no hole in the cover), the front mounted seal, with or without the mechanical pump boss.

          I am going to a mechanical pump, and am usign the cover off of an '88 police cruiser, with the 351. I was going to use an older cover (plug the disptick hole), but I like the front mount seal better.
          I am searching through the ones on ebay, I should've looked there before I bought it off Rockauto
          1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

          Comment


            #6
            The one you have is an earlier one. They had the front dip stick, and the seal that is installed from the rear.
            **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
            **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
            **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
            **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

            Comment


              #7
              thanks for the advice! I think I overtorqued mine, then...
              If you want, I picked up a block from a mustang guy last week, and he threw in 2 extra timing covers with it: want one? Just cover $6 for shipping if you do.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by BerniniCaCO3 View Post
                thanks for the advice! I think I overtorqued mine, then...
                If you want, I picked up a block from a mustang guy last week, and he threw in 2 extra timing covers with it: want one? Just cover $6 for shipping if you do.
                Sure man! I appreciate it. PM sent!
                1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I absolutely HATE Dorman parts. Since they've expanded, they fit like the Chinese shit they are. They used to be just weird stuff like AC knobs and crazy fasteners. I recently bought a door handle for my truck and it fits crooked. I've bought other stuff too and not been impressed. Supposedly their window regulators are plastic and are totally hit and miss. I'd sooner hit the junkyard for old ass factory parts than buy new Chinese junk.
                  1992 CVLX. 5.0 HO/GT40P/T5/3.73/trak-lok with bolt ons. 02 front CVPI setup, rear HPP setup, CVPI shocks around, F250 radiator, e-fans, and the power of 3G. 15.92@89mph, 2.4 60', 4700' elevation (5500' DA) with 3.08 open rear and the old oil chugging 289. RIP.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    old ass factory window regulators for Aeros are plastic POS just like the dorman parts. both are hit or miss... and it really depends on how well you align the damn things. You need the least amount of resistance possible. Already busted 3 aftermarket and the front 2 factory regulators due to POS plastic. Why the hell they hold a steel cable with plastic supports is beyond me. I'd rather have the cable f'n welded to the riser than have to deal with that plastic BS. [/rant]

                    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                    Originally posted by gadget73
                    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                    Originally posted by dmccaig
                    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      so... is it fixed yet? you ready to race?
                      2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
                      89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
                      88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


                      I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by 88grandmarq View Post
                        so... is it fixed yet? you ready to race?
                        Timing cover has been JB welded and flat-filed, looks good. It will be reinstalled and up and running this weekend, barring any snags. Also new FRPP headers and catted factory mustang h-pipe will be installed
                        1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          If it makes ya feel any better I had some pitted mating surfaces on my timing cover and head (coolant) years ago when I assembled it. All I did was glop on some silicone and it's never leaked.
                          1992 CVLX. 5.0 HO/GT40P/T5/3.73/trak-lok with bolt ons. 02 front CVPI setup, rear HPP setup, CVPI shocks around, F250 radiator, e-fans, and the power of 3G. 15.92@89mph, 2.4 60', 4700' elevation (5500' DA) with 3.08 open rear and the old oil chugging 289. RIP.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            most of the time silicone fixes it up nicely. JB Weld, if properly done, is probably a nicer solution. The trick is filing it flat. Most people can't make things flat to save their lives.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #15
                              so its all fixed? ready for a heater core?
                              2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
                              89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
                              88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


                              I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

                              Comment

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