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Running rough...suggestions on what to test?

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    #46
    second set of codes it spits out with the key on engine off are the continuous memory codes (triggered when your driving) not always necessarily bad just that it recognized a problem at one point.

    hard faults means something is bad right this second..



    http://bronco.zenseeker.net/EECIV.htm
    Give a man a fish and he will be fed for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will promptly forget that he once did not know, and proceed to call anyone who asks, a n00b and flame them on the boards for being stupid.

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      #47
      I've checked the codes a couple of times with a test light rigged up and other times with my scan tool. The KOEO code has been the one for my charcoal canister solenoid being unhooked and KOER codes are for banks 1 and 2 lean. Been a while...guess I could check them again.

      I thought the KOEO codes cleared themselves once you checked them...the KOER codes clear once the problem is fixed....

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        #48
        Originally posted by PushnFords View Post
        I've checked the codes a couple of times with a test light rigged up and other times with my scan tool. The KOEO code has been the one for my charcoal canister solenoid being unhooked and KOER codes are for banks 1 and 2 lean. Been a while...guess I could check them again.

        I thought the KOEO codes cleared themselves once you checked them...the KOER codes clear once the problem is fixed....
        No you have to clear them. Or wait 40 warm up cycles or some bullshit like that.

        To clear them you put it in self test mode with KOEO. When it starts flashing the continuous memory codes, disconnect the wire to the STI. That will clear all codes.

        Why don't you hook the evap solenoid and charcoal canister back up? I'm sure the computer is looking for fuel vapors to suck into the intake, which make it run lean at times (the computer will lean out the air fuel mixture when it attempts to open the solenoid it's expecting to be sucking fuel vapors to take the place of fuel injected).

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          #49
          Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
          No you have to clear them. Or wait 40 warm up cycles or some bullshit like that.

          To clear them you put it in self test mode with KOEO. When it starts flashing the continuous memory codes, disconnect the wire to the STI. That will clear all codes.
          I'll have to look up how to do that. Is there a sticky somewhere around here that explains it all? I'll have to read it some other time. Worked 7 hours at my job then another 6 in the garage putting in floor pans and I think I got welder burn to my eyes. Crap.

          Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
          Why don't you hook the evap solenoid and charcoal canister back up? I'm sure the computer is looking for fuel vapors to suck into the intake, which make it run lean at times (the computer will lean out the air fuel mixture when it attempts to open the solenoid it's expecting to be sucking fuel vapors to take the place of fuel injected).
          I disconnected it because my charcoal canister is smashed...something must have hit it.

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            #50
            It got too late to be welding and grinding outside so I took the CV for a spin. When I got back I connected the STI to ground and hooked a test light from the battery positive to the STO. Turned the key on...only codes I got was 85 and then 11. I unhooked the STI before I had the key turned off...but I don't think that did anything. After that I hooked up my scan tool and checked for KOER codes...and I got a 92. I don't know why the hell I am now rich on bank 2 when I've been lean on both up to this point...except I still have the junkyard MAP sensor on. Maybe I need to put the original MAP sensor back on and recheck and see if it goes lean again? IDK...either way something has changed there. BUT...on the drive I took to warm the car up it was missing pretty bad.

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              #51
              have you welded this car before?

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                #52
                Originally posted by PushnFords View Post
                I'll have to look up how to do that. Is there a sticky somewhere around here that explains it all? I'll have to read it some other time. Worked 7 hours at my job then another 6 in the garage putting in floor pans and I think I got welder burn to my eyes. Crap.



                I disconnected it because my charcoal canister is smashed...something must have hit it.
                I already posted how it's done.
                Give a man a fish and he will be fed for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will promptly forget that he once did not know, and proceed to call anyone who asks, a n00b and flame them on the boards for being stupid.

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                  #53
                  Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
                  have you welded this car before?
                  Never welded on the CV before. I was welding on this: http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f...Bradley125.jpg

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                    #54
                    Originally posted by PushnFords View Post
                    Never welded on the CV before. I was welding on this: http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f...Bradley125.jpg
                    Just wanted to make sure, because you can fry your computer that way.

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                      #55
                      Originally posted by cld783 View Post
                      I already posted how it's done.
                      I was mainly meaning the clearing of the codes. But when I did that last code read I saw an option in my scanner for clearing them and did it...so I guess that part is done. Now just to figure out how/why I've gone from both banks lean to one bank rich with the exact same symptoms.

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                        #56
                        Haven't driven the CV much the last week...started working on it again this weekend. I picked up a dist out of the local junkyard and stripped it down and cleaned it. Reassembled it with a new pick up coil, fresh heat sink, and the same module that was on it at the junkyard. Reset the timing at 10 degrees and lowered the idle speed to 620 in drive...it had been closer to 1,000. Also swapped in a top post battery (been running a side post with adapters and wire holddown) and put in an actual battery hold down. Reset the trip minder and checked codes with a test light...got 85/11. Hooked up my scan tool and tried a cylinder balance test. I'm back to the KOER codes of 41/91 for running lean. I just ordered a bunch of parts for my truck so I'll wait a bit for my bank acct to recover and probably order a couple of O2 sensors.

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