first startup-- tuning distributor timing?

[BerniniCaCO3]

Thanks cld783, that should help a lot.
I'm going to double check that I do, definitely, have the distributor dropped in correctly, then position it with that groove.

Two questions!
--With the timing light, I frankly couldn't see much of anything...what was I supposed to be seeing? Will it help immensely if I carefully take some whiteout or some white thread sealant and mark 10 BTDC?
With the strobe, I should be able to make out the white mark and the overhanging stamped sheet metal indicator tab, aligned (when it's timed right)?

--just to double check, I put the distributor in so the center rotating thingy, connected to the camshaft, is pointed directly back at the engine... but when the notches align, the #1 spark plug should end up rotated either to the right or to the left (whichever way 10 BTDC equals)?

--what was the author talking about, "If you have an aftermarket balancer, there are usually three (3) sets of timing marks/scales." Mine only has one -it is aftermarket- if it only has one, it MUST be the right one? Or is it possible I have it horribly off because the scale is not right?

[91waggin]

Mark the balancer at 10btdc with a piece of chalk. Don't put any advance on your timing light. On my car, the timing is pretty close to right when the end of the TFI module points at one of the alternator support brackets, about 35-40 degrees counter clockwise from pointing straight at the front of the car, but only turn it to this point when you're sure the dizzy is in correctly. Disconnect the SPOUT connector.

Loosen the dizzy hold-down.
Hook your timing light up correctly to the #1 wire.
Start the engine
Point the timing light at the balancer and pull the trigger.
Every time the #1 plug fires, the timing light strobe will flash, and it will make it look like your chalk mark on the balancer is staying in one place.
Rotate the dizzy until your chalk mark is lined up with the timing pointer above the balancer.
Shut off engine.
Tighten dizzy hold down bolt. Make sure the dizzy doesn't move.
Restart the engine and verify timing with your timing gun.
Shut the engine off again and put your SPOUT connector back in.
You're done.

The reason some timing lights have the advance knob on them is so you can just put a chalk mark on tdc on the balancer. Then you select the amount of advance you want on the gun and make the tdc mark line up with the timing pointer. This is more useful if you're planning on playing with the timing a whole bunch.

[86VickyLX]

Thanks cld783, that should help a lot.
I'm going to double check that I do, definitely, have the distributor dropped in correctly, then position it with that groove.

Two questions!
--With the timing light, I frankly couldn't see much of anything...what was I supposed to be seeing? Will it help immensely if I carefully take some whiteout or some white thread sealant and mark 10 BTDC?
With the strobe, I should be able to make out the white mark and the overhanging stamped sheet metal indicator tab, aligned (when it's timed right)?

--just to double check, I put the distributor in so the center rotating thingy, connected to the camshaft, is pointed directly back at the engine... but when the notches align, the #1 spark plug should end up rotated either to the right or to the left (whichever way 10 BTDC equals)?

--what was the author talking about, "If you have an aftermarket balancer, there are usually three (3) sets of timing marks/scales." Mine only has one -it is aftermarket- if it only has one, it MUST be the right one? Or is it possible I have it horribly off because the scale is not right?

There are some that have more than 1 set of marks. Mark it with whiteout or some kind of paint.
The rotating thingy is called a rotor. on one rotation, the rotor will be on #1 or close to it. On another rotation, the rotor will be pointing elsewhere. Remember it's two crankshaft revolutions per camshaft revolutions.