Moves Like Jagger

[Mike_O]

You ever been here?

[johnunit]

no but I know it's cold in winters and warm in the summers. Basically any climate that isn't 20-25C and dry all year round will give these carbs some trouble.

[Mike_O]

So I'm screwed when it hits -30 or so.

[johnunit]

weirdly, it doesn't get much worse, at least for me. I've never had a trouble with it flat out not starting, it's just being patient with letting it warm up before I put it in gear. About the longest I've had it take is 2 1/2 minute. Colder is worse, but for some context I'm from Toronto and didn't grow to consider -15 starts as particularly longer/more tiresome than 0 degree starts.

[Mike_O]

Well I've decided to convert to EFI, so hopefully it won't be an issue much longer.

[GM_Guy]

So I'm screwed when it hits -30 or so.

No. You just need to remember your driving something with a carb. Make sure the heat stove (hot air piping) is in place. If you havn't had a carb in winter before, you set the choke by pressing the throttle down ONCE to the floor, and crank her over. Depending on weather (humidity being the biggest PITA) it may need some milking of the throttle once it starts to keep the revs up (choke on = higher rpm) and let it run for 3 or more minutes at that higher rpm. Kick down the choke with a tap on the throttle and drive away, always being aware that cold temperatures could cause the choke to engage again due to cooling off until the car has gotten good 'n hot.

Don't use cruise control in the winter if you have it. Carb icing would be a more serious matter then. (right combination of humidity and temperature will lead to carb icing. And it can happen with efi also which is why there is coolant running through the throttle body). Nothing insurmountable, you just need to learn the quirks--I'll also add, keep the radio turned down if you tend to play it loud so you can hear what the engine is up to and act accordingly to keep it running if its acting up.

Alex.

[Mike_O]

No. You just need to remember your driving something with a carb. Make sure the heat stove (hot air piping) is in place. If you havn't had a carb in winter before, you set the choke by pressing the throttle down ONCE to the floor, and crank her over. Depending on weather (humidity being the biggest PITA) it may need some milking of the throttle once it starts to keep the revs up (choke on = higher rpm) and let it run for 3 or more minutes at that higher rpm. Kick down the choke with a tap on the throttle and drive away, always being aware that cold temperatures could cause the choke to engage again due to cooling off until the car has gotten good 'n hot.

Don't use cruise control in the winter if you have it. Carb icing would be a more serious matter then. (right combination of humidity and temperature will lead to carb icing. And it can happen with efi also which is why there is coolant running through the throttle body). Nothing insurmountable, you just need to learn the quirks--I'll also add, keep the radio turned down if you tend to play it loud so you can hear what the engine is up to and act accordingly to keep it running if its acting up.

Alex.

The heat stove...the guy told me something that attaches to the carbeurator, it looked like a metal vacuum cleaner hose attachment. It's in the trunk of the car sitting there I believe.

Better get that put on.

Thank you.

[johnunit]

it goes between the air cleaner snorkel (the tunnel type thing coming from the top of the engine on the driver's side) and the exhaust manifold. There'll be circular things sticking up from the exhaust manifold and down from the air cleaner snorkel you fit the heat stove over. It's function is to make the engine suck air from around the exhaust manifold when the engine bay is still cold, so that the air the engine is taking in warms up faster. It does have a noticeable effect on cold starts. You'll also want to make sure that the two vacuum lines on top of the air cleaner are connected. One should go to the hockey puck type thing righ above where the heat stove attatches, and the other should go to the back of the air cleaner assembly. If they aren't there, the snorkel doesn't divert to sucking through the heat stove on cold starts anyway. In my case, the metal nub one of those vacuum lines attatches to is cracked, so I've removed it all temporarily since the vacuum leak prevents that hockey puck from pulling the flap inside the snorkel which would divert the air.

[Mike_O]

I had a look at my heat stove and it's holy.

Like, it has holes in it.

[sly]

aluminum tape... aka air conditioning tape will help that. Duck tape would burn off slowly. BTDT.

if you can't find a replacement... you might try seeing if a section of hard drier hose will work. I know they make it in 3" diameter stock.... not sure if the pipe on the cars is smaller than that though.

[GM_Guy]

You can get heat riser pipe at Canadian Tire. Still on the shelves (last winter anyway) over here.

Alex.

[Mike_O]

You can get heat riser pipe at Canadian Tire. Still on the shelves (last winter anyway) over here.

Alex.

I went to CT with heat stove in hand and the guy was like "uhhh whatsat?".

I told him and asked if they had a replacement stove in stock, he said they don't carry it.

[86VickyLX]

97 roller compatible 351w block, GT40 heads, Lightning lower intake, explorer or Lightning upper and such, HO cam, Mustang Mass air computer.... mmmmm

[Mike_O]

97 roller compatible 351w block, GT40 heads, Lightning lower intake, explorer or Lightning upper and such, HO cam, Mustang Mass air computer.... mmmmm

Riiight.

[86VickyLX]

At least get better heads.